What have you done to your square lately??

[Goldie Driver]

Nothing fancy - oil change for me.

Was gonna try 10W40 - Wally World had none except syn, which for Goldie- umm, no.

Enough leaks as it is.

So, back to Castrol 20W50- just in time for cooler to cold weather.

Umm, yeah.

Oh, well - its fresh, with a hint of MMO.

 

[Goldie Driver]

@Paladin - you and @82sbshortbed - I forgot to mention I had a 16 ouncer while thus occupied.

 

[Catbox]

Truck sounds much better with the pair of these under it.
Well worth the whopping $26 each for the mufflers.
So worth it in fact, I purchased 5 of them the other day.
3 of the 3 inchers, two for the truck and one for the Sub and then there are a pair of 2-1/2 inchers for Max's car for Christmas.

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[78C10BigTen]

Truck sounds much better with the pair of these under it.
Well worth the whopping $26 each for the mufflers.
So worth it in fact, I purchased 5 of them the other day.
3 of the 3 inchers, two for the truck and one for the Sub and then there are a pair of 2-1/2 inchers for Max's car for Christmas.

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No sound vid? Wonder what they would make a 4.3L v6 say...?

 

[gotyourgoat]

Brown got her once a year wash, whether she needs it or not like the wife likes to say. Only a proud papa would notice a layer of funk removed from such a beast. Turned out to be a solstice wash this year. Standard wash includes mit and soap plus a spray bottle of bleach solution to get rid of the **** that likes to grow in various spots on the flat paint...or whats left of it. Roof was a special area of disgusting this year.

 

[OldBlueDually]

We (our oldest and I) have been working on the 455 for the truck. Got in my new double roller chain and gears, a friend is going to loan me his degree wheel so I can degree the cam in properly for optimal performance out of it, heads are off, valves are lapped, valve guides cut down, heads washed up & cleaned properly.

Next is to install the cam & lifters, install the new chain & gears, then degree the cam. After that we need to install the valves, springs, and new oil seals. Once that is complete I will probably run over the top of each valve stem with the dial indicator to verify all valves are opening the same amount.....or maybe I should just skip this because ignorance is bliss


And I found another NEW source for parts too called Competition Products located in Wisconsin, you guys doing any engine work should check them out, I got my gasket sets from them, and the cutter & arbor! Comp Cams was not going to have the arbor until the 21st of December and I did not want to wait that long. Competition Products had a ton of them on hand and for a bit cheaper too, same brand of tool too. I also got the oil seals from them, double roller chain & gears.

I am on Christmas break now, so I hope to have this engine back together again. Need to do some paint removal first! Gotta get rid of the red, I plan to paint the engine the original gold color it should be, and match the valve covers, oil pan and other misc. sheetmetal parts to the same color of the truck, metallic blue.


Natalie (10) helping me remove head bolts & heads.

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Valves and seats look dang good.

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Natalie helping remove valve springs.

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Cutting down of valve guides, here is the cutter & arbor. I was a bit worried about this at first, I have never done it before. Holy crap this cutter and arbor worked awesome!!! There is also another tiny cutter near the base of the tool that leave a beautiful chamfer on the top of the valve guide too just like factory had.

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New valve oil seal.

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[Poppy 87]

We (our oldest and I) have been working on the 455 for the truck. Got in my new double roller chain and gears, a friend is going to loan me his degree wheel so I can degree the cam in properly for optimal performance out of it, heads are off, valves are lapped, valve guides cut down, heads washed up & cleaned properly.

Next is to install the cam & lifters, install the new chain & gears, then degree the cam. After that we need to install the valves, springs, and new oil seals. Once that is complete I will probably run over the top of each valve stem with the dial indicator to verify all valves are opening the same amount.....or maybe I should just skip this because ignorance is bliss


And I found another NEW source for parts too called Competition Products located in Wisconsin, you guys doing any engine work should check them out, I got my gasket sets from them, and the cutter & arbor! Comp Cams was not going to have the arbor until the 21st of December and I did not want to wait that long. Competition Products had a ton of them on hand and for a bit cheaper too, same brand of tool too. I also got the oil seals from them, double roller chain & gears.

I am on Christmas break now, so I hope to have this engine back together again. Need to do some paint removal first! Gotta get rid of the red, I plan to paint the engine the original gold color it should be, and match the valve covers, oil pan and other misc. sheetmetal parts to the same color of the truck, metallic blue.


Natalie (10) helping me remove head bolts & heads.

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Valves and seats look dang good.

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Natalie helping remove valve springs.

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Cutting down of valve guides, here is the cutter & arbor. I was a bit worried about this at first, I have never done it before. Holy crap this cutter and arbor worked awesome!!! There is also another tiny cutter near the base of the tool that leave a beautiful chamfer on the top of the valve guide too just like factory had.

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New valve oil seal.

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I would bet that cylinder head weighs more than Natalie!

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[OldBlueDually]

I would bet that cylinder head weighs more than Natalie!

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I think they actually do weigh more than her!! These are the big valved C heads they used, man the ports on this thing are big too. The heads however do weigh a LOT!!

 

[hoagster]

More cab work done, top of the cab cleaned up and sealed. Time to move to the inside of of the cab.

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[John Nes]

Replaced the busted original heater core last weekend, damn thing fought me the whole way, broke a 7/16ths stud on it when removing, but thankfully have a parts truck that still had a good heater box stud I could use...dropped a new trans crossmember from summit in, and I’m about to go pick the truck up from the exhaust shop, where they just tucked some duals above the rails...so now I can drop the front 2” more.

 

[idahovette]

Right now, while you are still fresh, how bout doing my core???..... maybe after Christmas??

 

[Vbb199]

Replaced the busted original heater core last weekend, damn thing fought me the whole way, broke a 7/16ths stud on it when removing, but thankfully have a parts truck that still had a good heater box stud I could use...dropped a new trans crossmember from summit in, and I’m about to go pick the truck up from the exhaust shop, where they just tucked some duals above the rails...so now I can drop the front 2” more.

They are such a ****** pain to change.
The squares arent incredibly bad, but still ******. I think the worst heater core to change was in my s10 blazer... that involved taking thr whole damn dash apart

 

[Vbb199]

This came today, along with the bearings seals, pinion nut, crush sleeve, blah blah blah.

Just need my tranny gears and i'll be set!!!

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[Kim Burke]

Took my truck to my brother’s spring shop and started tearing off everything loose or leaking.
*Shook down the front end and found left upper ball joint and lower a-arm shaft bushings needs replaced.
*Left front upper shock stud loose (the rattle I’ve come to hate)
*Rear diff cover (leaking)
*Steering gear leaking
*Valve covers leaking
*Radiator leaking

The road trips have given me something to do this winter.

 

[Kim Burke]

Every nut and bolt has come loose. The a-arm shaft ubolts came out like the truck was 2 years old! Rust free is highly underrated!