What have you done to your square lately??

[austinado16]

I got to start tracing a short in my door locks. I thought it was the switches but it is not.

Front doors work fine but the 3 rear doors short out on unlock position and won't unlock all the way. And this happens randomly.

My guess would be that you have broken wiring inside one or more of the rubber boots that span between the door and the body. Very common failure in some of the German stuff I used to work on. Not sure if it's common to Squares, but it'd be the first place I'd look if it was mine. The rear probably doesn't function well because the old lithium grease is all dry and turned to sticky clay. Remove that right door inner panel, clean all the lock mechanism components with WD-40 (crappy lubricant, but a great solvent cleaner), relube with Triflow and see how it functions before you put the door panel back on.

 

[ScottyB]

My son drive my K1500 everyday that he was here for Thanksgiving break. I got to drive it today cuz my roll back sat on the side of the interstate with 2 flat rear tires. What a fuggin day !!!

Didja hafta call for a tow truck???

 

[cramezl]

Fixed the old piece of crap radio last night with one speaker. But, it does the job for now. Better than nothing I guess!

Sent from my HTC Hero S using Tapatalk 2

 

[jake wells]

installed new rear brake shoes,springs,wheel cylinders,brake hose, and had the drums turned raybestos baby lol.

new diff cover gasket and oil ( old gasket was seeping some ) looked like chocolate pudding/syrup in the axle.

 

[Stroked]

installed new rear brake shoes,springs,wheel cylinders,brake hose, and had the drums turned raybestos baby lol.

new diff cover gasket and oil ( old gasket was seeping some ) looked like chocolate pudding/syrup in the axle.

I bet it smelled real good too

 

[89Suburban]

My guess would be that you have broken wiring inside one or more of the rubber boots that span between the door and the body. Very common failure in some of the German stuff I used to work on. Not sure if it's common to Squares, but it'd be the first place I'd look if it was mine. The rear probably doesn't function well because the old lithium grease is all dry and turned to sticky clay. Remove that right door inner panel, clean all the lock mechanism components with WD-40 (crappy lubricant, but a great solvent cleaner), relube with Triflow and see how it functions before you put the door panel back on.

Thanks for the info. Good job guys with your repairs and maintenance.

 

[1sik78]

Just got some 15" rims with tires for my 78. I like it a lot

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[roving4s]

Degreased, wire wheeled the valve covers inside and out. And painted the outside grabber green.

 

[RailRiderHD]

bought one of those little heater/defrosters that plug into the cig lighter, my defroster and heater work fine, but they just don't keep up like the newer vehicles, so I figured that would help it along, and it does, lol

 

[87ChevyR10]

If it weren't below 32 F outside, I'd be replacing the HL dimmer switch, turn signal cam, ignition key tumbler, and door hinge pins and S-springs.

Stupid winter....

 

[austinado16]

bought one of those little heater/defrosters that plug into the cig lighter, my defroster and heater work fine, but they just don't keep up like the newer vehicles, so I figured that would help it along, and it does, lol

Did you see the thread from a month or 2 ago where a member discovered that the heater blower motor from the next generation after the squares, fits the squares, and moves more air? Maybe yours would benefit?

 

[Stroked]

Did you see the thread from a month or 2 ago where a member discovered that the heater blower motor from the next generation after the squares, fits the squares, and moves more air? Maybe yours would benefit?

Wha?? This I would like to hear about. Mine doesn't move enough air to keep the windshield defrosted. Of course it doesn't help that High doesn't work for some reason...

 

[foamypirate]

Preparing my plan of attack to track down my vibration (engine speed related, since it goes away when I am at speed and in neutral and the RPMs drop, also does it while not moving and revving).

First plan is to remove the fan and clutch, then the accessories one by one. If vibration is still there, I'll remove the inspection cover on the trans and unbolt the converter from the flexplate, push the converter into the trans, then start the engine and see if the vibration is gone or not. If it's still there, that pretty places the blame on the harmonic balancer if the flexplate checks out (which it did 3 months ago when I changed the transmission).

 

[89Suburban]

Did you see the thread from a month or 2 ago where a member discovered that the heater blower motor from the next generation after the squares, fits the squares, and moves more air? Maybe yours would benefit?

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=184422&highlight=blower#post184422

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=184031&highlight=blower#post184031

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7665&highlight=blower

Wha?? This I would like to hear about. Mine doesn't move enough air to keep the windshield defrosted. Of course it doesn't help that High doesn't work for some reason...

High position in the heater switch takes it's toll over the years. Would not be surprised if you pulled the switch and saw burning on the high position segments of the brass contacts, even melted plastic holding it.

Preparing my plan of attack to track down my vibration (engine speed related, since it goes away when I am at speed and in neutral and the RPMs drop, also does it while not moving and revving).

First plan is to remove the fan and clutch, then the accessories one by one. If vibration is still there, I'll remove the inspection cover on the trans and unbolt the converter from the flexplate, push the converter into the trans, then start the engine and see if the vibration is gone or not. If it's still there, that pretty places the blame on the harmonic balancer if the flexplate checks out (which it did 3 months ago when I changed the transmission).

Do not want to be in your shoes, good luck!

 

[Stroked]

High position in the heater switch takes it's toll over the years. Would not be surprised if you pulled the switch and saw burning on the high position segments of the brass contacts, even melted plastic holding it.

I thought that too, but I put a new switch in and still no high. I haven't tried tracing it down anymore than that.