What have you done to your square lately??

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HotRodPC

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Been tuning the carburetor and driving her around on the weekends... She's getting there, but I found out that my kickdown switch for the TH400 is dead. Anyone know where to get one local or am I stuck having to track it down online?

Fire up a new thread about the stitch in the Auto Trans section, and let's troubleshoot it.
 

SlickGTP

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Fire up a new thread about the stitch in the Auto Trans section, and let's troubleshoot it.

I already know it's the switch... Continuity test confirmed that it wasn't making contact. Pulled it apart last night and the anti-corrosion stuff inside had hardened up after 9 years of disuse and was acting like a insulator. I knocked the crud off and put the switch back together, but won't know until tonight if it works. :weld:

If it doesn't work then I'll need to find a replacement...
 

Codey

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Done a number of things today
put a tachometer on, put a chrome alternator bracket on, put some spark plug wire separators on,
and finally fixed my chrome push in oil cap it was leaking out oil vapor onto my valve covers so what i did is plugged all the little exit holes with rtv silencone
 

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HotRodPC

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Got the PHUCKIN C20 running finally. It's not right, but it's at least running and I have something to start and go with. Updating the UC thread.
 

HotRodPC

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Done a number of things today
put a tachometer on, put a chrome alternator bracket on, put some spark plug wire separators on,
and finally fixed my chrome push in oil cap it was leaking out oil vapor onto my valve covers so what i did is plugged all the little exit holes with rtv silencone

:rofl: I'm not so sure that plugging that vent cap was a good idea brah !!! :happy175:

The reason that cap is leaking is cuz you prolly have some blow by in the motor. That cap is to vent the blow by and yes, it's possible in extreme conditions it'll puke some of the oil out of it. If you have blow by, it needs to get out of the motor somehow. It will find the path of least resistance or make it's own path. If you plugged that off real good and nowhere else to vent the blow by, it can blow seals out of the motor and will be the weakest seals first.

Sure is a purdy motor to be having blow by.
 

bucket

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A faulty PCV could be causing the oil vapor too.

Smearing RTV all over the breather will likely cause a leak somewhere else.
 

89Suburban

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Got the PHUCKIN C20 running finally. It's not right, but it's at least running and I have something to start and go with. Updating the UC thread.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

HotRodPC

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A faulty PCV could be causing the oil vapor too.

Smearing RTV all over the breather will likely cause a leak somewhere else.

Good Point about the PCV. And yeah, that's my point about plugging the vent cap. The blow by WILL find a way out, or it will MAKE a way out.
 

Codey

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:rofl: I'm not so sure that plugging that vent cap was a good idea brah !!! :happy175:

The reason that cap is leaking is cuz you prolly have some blow by in the motor. That cap is to vent the blow by and yes, it's possible in extreme conditions it'll puke some of the oil out of it. If you have blow by, it needs to get out of the motor somehow. It will find the path of least resistance or make it's own path. If you plugged that off real good and nowhere else to vent the blow by, it can blow seals out of the motor and will be the weakest seals first.

Sure is a purdy motor to be having blow by.

would there be someway to stop the blowby. i replaced the pvc valve thinking that would help and it didt

also is this a very serious problem. this engine just needs to last me till i get the cash up for my new engine
 
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HotRodPC

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would there be someway to stop the blowby. i replaced the pvc valve thinking that would help and it didt

also is this a very serious problem. this engine just needs to last me till i get the cash up for my new engine

Blow by is USUALLY caused by worn rings, or very well worn valve guides where the compression is escaping the combustion chamber and into the crankcase.

What you might be able to do... You ever seen those tall oil fill tubes on valve covers? If you can find one of those, then use a vented cap on the top of that tube, then mainly just air might escape and oil may not make it up the tube all the way and drain down the tube wall back into the top of the heads so you're not losing as much oil.

But, you do need to vent the crankcase somehow or you'll blow more oil seals. You can't build up to much pressure in the crankcase and if you block off all the vents and the PVC valve isn't enough, then that's what will happen.
 

Mater08

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I cut some metal out of the bed on the front bottom corner of the wheel well to brush up and see how well I am at body work anymore.
 

1981scottsdale

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Well today I got my patch panels welded in and am starting the body work, then yesterday I went to the wrecker and got a nice set of '062' casing vortex heads, so now I need to get them hot dipped and figure out how to make them allow me to hit 400ft lbs of torque :) I don't understand engines well enough for this haha
 

SlickGTP

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Helped a friend move yesterday and got to test all my tuning and small fixes. Truck is definitely running better and the kickdown switch works. I think I'm getting a bit better gas mileage as well. :waytogo:
 

smurph20

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Pulled my older radio out and added a harness out of a dodge stratus the came with the radio I put in my Yukon so now I have an actual harness to hook up to and be able to easily pull it back out later without having to cut any wires.. Also put a new tach in and added front speakers and rerouted my cb wiring so its not easily seen.
 

HotRodPC

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Pulled my older radio out and added a harness out of a dodge stratus the came with the radio I put in my Yukon so now I have an actual harness to hook up to and be able to easily pull it back out later without having to cut any wires.. Also put a new tach in and added front speakers and rerouted my cb wiring so its not easily seen.

Sounds like you :grd: and rednecktified'er real good !!!
 

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