What have you done to your square lately??
- Thread starter Old77
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Driver4r
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Whoa !!! For Real??? Remind me, if I swing by your house, don't offer me any of your Kool-Aid.Fram TG Filter??? By any chance do you ever cut them apart after changes???
No, I dont travel many miles. Just to school and home, and ocasionally a 30 or 50 mile trip.
When i change oil, its not really that dirty.
john55
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HRpc, is there a problem w/fram filters? never heard that before, what is a quality filter/s ? i usually use whatever filter/ oil is on sale. 10w-40w in spring/summer & 10w-30w in fall/ winter. is that ok? should i stay with same brand and weight? thanks john
Stroked
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I know of a Cummins with over 230,000 miles on it that has had synthetic oil its whole life. No troubles so far. I've never heard of lubrication problems with synthetic. Just the opposite. It lubricates better and doesn't break down as fast. Hence the longer oil change intervals.
I don't run the stuff because if you have an oil leak, it leaks out faster. And all my old beaters have oil leaks. Lol. My dodge is on a dealer service plan for another year and when that is up it will get switched to full synthetic.
Also, Fram is bad, bad, bad, bad...
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Last edited:
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I've been using Synthetic Oil for well over 20 years and have NEVER heard of Synthetic Oil Failure, Now I've heard of several Fram Oil Filter Filters.
Now how many test, fail and Fram Reviews videos would you like to see? Gimme a # from 1-25 and I'll find you 25 Fram Fail / Review Videos.
Let's start you off with 3 or 4.
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OK, I lied, let's do 5.
[yt]3vDz3dVLaaM[/yt] Trust Your Farrari Motor to a Fram Filter !!!
Stroked
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Oh the horror! I may be a tightwad on a lot if things(so everyone tells me), but I never cheap out on fluids or filters. It just doesn't cost that much more for the good stuff.
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Here's you a comparison between Fram and Purolator. I will use Purolater Pure One, but I won't pay $8-$9 for it. Motorcraft filter is a Purolater Pure One for about $3, so yes, I do use Motorcraft Oil Filters on my GM products when I do a cheap oil change and use convnetional oil, and then I change my oil at 4,000-6,000 miles depending on the abuse on that oil between intervals, but 5,000 miles is average.
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[yt]YIcFgjEikUY[/yt]
Driver4r
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Iv seen LOTS of newer engines that were ****** cause they ran full synthetic oil. They sent them in under warrenty and thats what the report said.
And ive only seen 1 filter fail in my time so far. It was on a newer Mercedes, and IMO it was a weird filter design from the factory. Ive never had a filter fail on one of my own vehicles.
And ive only seen 1 filter fail in my time so far. It was on a newer Mercedes, and IMO it was a weird filter design from the factory. Ive never had a filter fail on one of my own vehicles.
smurph20
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Ive always used Valvoline oil and Wix filters. Ive had a High Milage Fram filter fail and choke my oil pessure down to around ten pounds on my 2.8 in my S-10 when it normally runs in the 50-60 pound range.
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Plenty of reading material here. Personally, I'm going to start using Baldwin filters.
http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html
http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html
john55
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tried to replace the exhaust donut gasket. sprayed a rust breaker on the bolts drove to autoz^ne to pickup gasket the left side started to loosed up s spin later bolt snapped off about 1" below manifold. will muffler be able can fix it? so the only thing i did today was screw it up....i should have left if alone trying to save a buck...
Stroked
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It got up to 55 degrees yesterday and over 65 today, so I got to work on the 84 K10.
I cut off the tiny crumpled up exhaust pipe that someone welded on after the muffler.
Then plumbed in my fuel pressure regulator and gauge. Next was a new cap and rotor on the distributor, followed by firing her up and setting the timing and carb.
Then I tore half the dash apart to trace a couple wires, fix the broken ash tray, and put the dash pad back in correctly so it wasn't flopping around. Found the cause of my dual tank switcher not working(still have to fix that). Of course, I cleaned 10 pounds of dirt out of everything while I had it apart.
Then it was on to more electrical. I replaced the front DS turn signal socket and started on fixing the broken wires on the PS taillight, when I discovered that the reverse bulb socket was no good. So that halted my repairs for the day.
I did take it for a spin around town and down the highway, and I gotta say, it was a blast to drive.
I sure missed having a square with a gasser.
I cut off the tiny crumpled up exhaust pipe that someone welded on after the muffler.
Then plumbed in my fuel pressure regulator and gauge. Next was a new cap and rotor on the distributor, followed by firing her up and setting the timing and carb.
Then I tore half the dash apart to trace a couple wires, fix the broken ash tray, and put the dash pad back in correctly so it wasn't flopping around. Found the cause of my dual tank switcher not working(still have to fix that). Of course, I cleaned 10 pounds of dirt out of everything while I had it apart.
Then it was on to more electrical. I replaced the front DS turn signal socket and started on fixing the broken wires on the PS taillight, when I discovered that the reverse bulb socket was no good. So that halted my repairs for the day.
I did take it for a spin around town and down the highway, and I gotta say, it was a blast to drive.
I sure missed having a square with a gasser.Similar threads
