What have you done to your square lately??

[robert8096]

I love the look of the engine compartment. So nice to see the OE look for a change.

Thanks all. I have an air cleaner and fan decal to install. I hope I don't loose the look when I install the Vintage Air system compressor. I think I am going to paint the AC compressor black to help it blend in.


This one is getting all the chrome and polished goodies.

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[foamypirate]

Foamy you should have remember, you spend at least an hour down there when you weld the muffler! LOL

You would think so, lol. I blame the fireants, I think that's all I can remember about that day, haha.

Here are some handy pictures I aped from another forum showing what you can do:

Fluid pressure from the master cylinder comes in here....

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Then comes out of the valve here...

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Which loops over and connects to the hose...

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My solution was to remove the valve and bend the hardline to allow it to screw directly into the hose. Now I have master cylinder pressure fed directly to the rear brakes just as GM did on millions of earlier model trucks. I prefer straight brake systems without these valves in line because I've struggled with these valves failing in the past. I figured to go ahead and solve the problem before it becomes a problem.

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The old valve and all the tools needed to do this job. Total time was about 5 minutes.

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[bucket]

I have another question about this. Do you have the Full Floating rear end, or do you have the Semi Floating axle???

I'm wondering what the difference is and why my 86 C20 doesn't have this get up. My 84 and 85 C20 both have it but they both also have the Semi Float rear axle, and my 86 has the Full Float.

My brother in law had an '83 C30 srw truck that had the valve, and my old '86 C20 Burb had the valve too. Both are 14FF.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

His is an FF.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Foamy you should have remember, you spend at least an hour down there when you weld the muffler! LOL

I'm bringing my gun and shooting that bastard off there if that's the problem...

 

[raylanr]

You would think so, lol. I blame the fireants, I think that's all I can remember about that day, haha.

Here are some handy pictures I aped from another forum showing what you can do:

It looks like he replace the T coupler where the hard line that goes over the differential connects to both of brake lines...

 

[Konas new ride]

New heater controls went into my 80... The fan switch broke off the back of the original controls. next is a factory tape deck..
but.. the cruise control box under the hood is getting changed out first.. I hope thats the problem with the speedo..

 

[NOPHO84K30]

I took mine off last summer. The only difference is now the rear locks up before the front. But if your ready for it to break sideways its no biggy

 

[smurph20]

Put a new fuel pump and filter and a new set of plugs in between Friday and Saturday.

 

[Smitch320]

New window seal (the scraper one) installed on the fronts. Should have done it a long time ago!

How hard of a task was that? I need to do mine

 

[HotRodPC]

Put a new fuel pump and filter and a new set of plugs in between Friday and Saturday.

So did you drive it in the living room of your trailer house, or did you test your balls bigger than mine and do this **** in the cold??? I haven't worked on **** since I got back from my dads. I did get a few things off the scrapper that I wanted, but not all of it. To fukin cold the last 10 days.

 

[heffalump]

Had to replace the dist. cap and coil on the burb. Got called in at 6 this morning cause of all the snow, got in the suburban and nothin... Messed with it forever finally gave up and drove the blazer.. Turns out the dist. and coil were basically falling apart.

 

[HotRodPC]

Had to replace the dist. cap and coil on the burb. Got called in at 6 this morning cause of all the snow, got in the suburban and nothin... Messed with it forever finally gave up and drove the blazer.. Turns out the dist. and coil were basically falling apart.

Shouldn't have to worry about that for awhile.

 

[smurph20]

So did you drive it in the living room of your trailer house, or did you test your balls bigger than mine and do this **** in the cold??? I haven't worked on **** since I got back from my dads. I did get a few things off the scrapper that I wanted, but not all of it. To fukin cold the last 10 days.

Had to the plugs thanks to the bad valve seals that foul out 1, 5, 7 about every 3 months. Then had to do the fuel pump in a parking lot when it failed and left us in Stillwell, OK about 35 miles from home.

 

[HotRodPC]

Sounds like a bit tired motor. When motors get to this point, this is where I normally like to pull it and do a poor man rebuild. Rings, Bearings, Timing Set, Gaskets, and a Valve Job if you can afford it, or lap the valves yourself and replace the seals. Put it all back together and should be good for 75,000-100,000 miles depending on it's current condition. After that, it's without a doubt, time for a new bore, pistons and complete Valve Job and complete with rebuild with crank turn, resurfacing, balanced etc.