Wax

[yevgenievich]

Anybody have thoughts on ceramic coating?
I had decent success just using polish type compound with sponge followed with a good wipe down on a really bad paint(was not worth getting the buffer out).

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[Raybo135]

@79dentside @80BrownK10, ok thanks. I'm not sure I'm up to a whole lot of buffing, but we'll see maybe a little at a time. The paint is not perfect by any means, in the picture it is raining so hence it looks shiny, but when dry it just looks dull. I've done the sort of paint restoration you guys are talking about it's just been a long time, so I appreciate the refresher.

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Holy crap, SirRobyn0, how big is that dog in the picture? It looks as big as a small horse! !

 

[SirRobyn0]

Holy crap, SirRobyn0, how big is that dog in the picture? It looks as big as a small horse! !

@Raybo135 I wondered after I posted it if anyone would notice him there in the background. His name is Mr Riggs he's a 5 year old fawn great dane and he weighs in at 220 LBS. He is huge even by great dane standards. He has no problem drinking out of the kitchen sink faucet. He's one of the nicest most gentle dogs I've had and at his size that's a good thing. The biggest problem is nothing fits him, even the largest dog beds won't work for him. Here is a picture of him in a hotel room recently, notice his back height to the door knob, and to the bathtub, unfortunately he's looking down in the pic.

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[AuroraGirl]

I feel you would have to correct paint as others have said, and one thing to think about is clear coat. Im not sure when clearcoat became a standard or if different years used different amounts, but for example, my truck was professionally redone in the late 90s by my grandfather who worked 20+ years in auto body..... but he never clearcoated it. So even if I didnt have a rusty bucket or shot paint, you can bring back the paint layer but truly should be a good prime layer, a good paint layer(hopefully so if clearcoat was present) and a remedied clearcoat layer. Which is where oxidation and such can be removed. Once that is all squared away(nice pun), a wax, a sealer, a ceramic, etc will protect further from there. If your base isnt good, its not gonna show its true performance(products that look good like ceramic, wax, etc)

 

[SirRobyn0]

I feel you would have to correct paint as others have said, and one thing to think about is clear coat. Im not sure when clearcoat became a standard or if different years used different amounts, but for example, my truck was professionally redone in the late 90s by my grandfather who worked 20+ years in auto body..... but he never clearcoated it. So even if I didnt have a rusty bucket or shot paint, you can bring back the paint layer but truly should be a good prime layer, a good paint layer(hopefully so if clearcoat was present) and a remedied clearcoat layer. Which is where oxidation and such can be removed. Once that is all squared away(nice pun), a wax, a sealer, a ceramic, etc will protect further from there. If your base isnt good, its not gonna show its true performance(products that look good like ceramic, wax, etc)

My truck definitely isn't clear coated. I'm sure it's the original paint, but it's far from perfect, and I'm not looking for perfect at all. It's work truck and will always be a work truck, I'm looking for better than it is now. I think a compounding is a must, then I'll decide if it'll be wax or sealer.

 

[WFO]

No. 7 White Polishing Compound is the best I've used for single stage paint.
It was even better when DuPont still made it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/No-7-White...=324079174391ea6e12314b404418a380867034a305bf