Vent window adjustment?

[Mr Stay Puft]

I just got my vent windows back from Precision who did a full rebuild on both. I was hoping it was going to fix the wind noise I was having around them, but it seems actually worse. I’ve attached a video and some pictures. The seal at the top is not adequate. I’m getting a ton of noise through it. I know, blare the stereo…. Is there an adjustment I am missing? It almost looks like the entire window needs to be rotated clockwise. I am not getting enough of a seal at the top and it looks like the bottom has a ton. Also if you look at the back edge of the glass it isn’t parallel to the metal dividing support between the main window and vent window.

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[SquareRoot]

I just got my vent windows back from Precision who did a full rebuild on both. I was hoping it was going to fix the wind noise I was having around them, but it seems actually worse. I’ve attached a video and some pictures. The seal at the top is not adequate. I’m getting a ton of noise through it. I know, blare the stereo…. Is there an adjustment I am missing? It almost looks like the entire window needs to be rotated clockwise. I am not getting enough of a seal at the top and it looks like the bottom has a ton. Also if you look at the back edge of the glass it isn’t parallel to the metal dividing support between the main window and vent window.

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Looks normal. My windows are fairly new and looks the same as yours. The gap is not even but the rubber lip on the inside is the same distance from bottom to top. Are you sure the noise isn't coming from the door seal? They are notorious for that. GM even used a second seal on the cab side for a while to deal with it. I was able to adjust my doors to sit deeper in the cab so the door seals actually compressed and eliminated my noise issue.

 

[Mr Stay Puft]

I have replaced the weather stripping in the entire truck. I purchased the second door seal but I can't figure out how to mount it. I can't seem to figure out the correct orientation. I am almost positive it is coming through the top of the vent. I have the dash all pulled apart now working on the radio but I will try and go for a drive tonight with it all taped up around the vent. But you can see light coming through at the top. (picture attached). On your window you seem to have a pretty even gap between the vent window glass and metal at the aft edge (picture attached).

 

[Mr Stay Puft]

So I emailed Precision and they got back to me first thing this morning. Here is what they said:

"To adjust that vent window, I have included a picture of how I rotate that glass frame forward. To do that you want to push vise grip towards the back of the truck to rotate the glass frame forward into the seal."

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With a combination of doing that and pushing the window here aggressively:

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(note the window is slightly open so I can push on the glass)

I was able to make a big difference. I can't see light anymore and it seems noticeably tighter in the trouble area. I still have the inside in pieces working on the stereo/backup camera/USB cords for phone charging. Hopefully this weekend I can take it for a drive and see if I have eliminated the noise.

 

[Craig 85]

The secondary trim goes like this. I believe it was only done on 79-80 trucks. I purchased the OEM style that screw into to door on the ends.

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[SquareRoot]

Interesting. I wonder if the window got tweaked at some point or it's just a mismatch of parts resulting from the typical lack of quality control from that era. Thanks for sharing that.

 

[84GMCSierra]

Looks normal. My windows are fairly new and looks the same as yours. The gap is not even but the rubber lip on the inside is the same distance from bottom to top. Are you sure the noise isn't coming from the door seal? They are notorious for that. GM even used a second seal on the cab side for a while to deal with it. I was able to adjust my doors to sit deeper in the cab so the door seals actually compressed and eliminated my noise issue.

Farther down on this post, it was said that only 79-80 models had the secondary seal on the doors? Just wondering why on just these 2 years?

 

[Mr Stay Puft]

The secondary trim goes like this. I believe it was only done on 79-80 trucks. I purchased the OEM style that screw into to door on the ends.

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Were the two screws enough to hold it in place or did you also run a bead of weatherstrip adhesive? If I needed to run the adhesive, it seems like I wouldn't need the screws.

 

[Randy and Easton]

We are following this thread…. Keep us posted. To screw or not to screw is the question.

 

[Craig 85]

Were the two screws enough to hold it in place or did you also run a bead of weatherstrip adhesive? If I needed to run the adhesive, it seems like I wouldn't need the screws.

Sorry guys. I have not installed it on my truck as I haven't painted it yet. I did add it to my '77 K5 back in the early 90's with a factory GM part. I'm old enough to have been able to buy new parts from GM when they were still cheap.

The screws help it from shrinking over time and pulling loose. You use weather strip adhesive to attach the the area between the screws.

 

[305_Square_Body]

I am trying to get the vent window seal on the L shaped frame. Any tricks on getting it on without having cardiac arrest, fatally stabbing myself with a tool, slicing my hand open or ruining the strip trying to get it in the channel? I am one frustrating hour into the passenger side. I try lube and it is too slippery to handle. I try force and the sharp edges are too much. I am truly at a loss.

 

[CalSgt]

I am trying to get the vent window seal on the L shaped frame. Any tricks on getting it on without having cardiac arrest, fatally stabbing myself with a tool, slicing my hand open or ruining the strip trying to get it in the channel? I am one frustrating hour into the passenger side. I try lube and it is too slippery to handle. I try force and the sharp edges are too much. I am truly at a loss.

How's about a picture of which part you are working on...

I assume you are talking about the sheet metal "U" channel the glass mounts in.

To get the glass in the channel with the rubber seal it took me probably 20 attempts (per side) to finally get them seated without the rubber seal getting crooked or slipping completely out in some spots. It was bad enough that I had to walk away from them and come back a week later with a clear head and more patients.

I used masking tape to hold the rubber in place got the U channel started over the glass & rubber and tapped on it with a rubber dead blow hammer gently until it was started. I continued working around and kinda adjusting how the glass fit in the channel since you probably cant start the entire edge in one shot because of the shape. Made small adjustments until the glass was mostly seated. After that I worked around with more moderate (harder) hammer taps.

 

[Randy and Easton]

I’m with @CalSgt , need a picture. Glass or window seal in frame?

Randy

 

[305_Square_Body]

It is the L shaped frame. The first three inches or so at the bottom is nice and easy. The rest just feels like a machine needs to do it. Seems like the rib inside the seal is a MM too thick. Says the attachment is too large when I try a picture.

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[Randy and Easton]

Lots of soapy water, or window cleaner and use a plastic tool to push it into the frame. The precision gasket came with a plastic tool that worked well. We found if you heated the gasket with heat gun or hot water (we did ours in December and it was cold in garage) they became more playable but its just time consuming and very tedious, I am not kidding about just putting them down and walking away!

Randy



Harbor freight has these and the middle one is what the precision tool looks like.