Valve cover gaskets.

[Manbearpig]

I definatley prefer the rubber or neoprene. Not a van of cork.

Can't say that I do

All the Felpro ones Ive had for my centerbolt covers I had to STRETCH the **** out of to get them to fit

 

[Swims350]

I never had good luck with rubber, it would push out or split, tried to glue them and sometimes it made it worse, had a set of rubber ones suck in once too, they were glued to the VC and still done it, but only because the choke shut and caused it I guess. everytime I had the choice of rubber or cork I went with cork, the rubber trans pan ones always give me trouble too. The ones for timing chain are the same way I use the paper ones instead. If I have to I use rubber and don't think much of it, but if it leaks I get mad.

Now my 88 has the rubber 1 piece oil pan seal and it's great.

 

[CknightK10]

I think alot has to do with the valve covers you have. I had stock center bolt covers with the rubber gaskets and never have had any leaking issues. However with the stock covers, the rubbers are a bitch to push in, they would always pop out right as I was about to put the covers on!!! I just recently bought some GM licensed cast aluminum valve covers and used the rubber fel-pro gaskets and had no issues what-so-ever pushing them in the valve covers and mounted them and NO leaking!!! I have never used glue..... you really dont need it

 

[rare86]

Ive always used cork. I use the gorilla snot on the valve cover side and then put a very, very thin coat of red rtv on the head side of the gasket and let it sit a little to film over then bolt them in. Havent had a leak yet, and pulled a couple on an engine to replace the stock ones with aluminum ones at about 70k and they came right off with out leaving any material on the head. The gasket was hard and I would have replaced them if i wre reusing the valve covers, but I didnt have to worry about scraping the old gaskets off of the head. Had an old racer from the 50s show me that.

 

[HotRodPC]

I was told that same thing by an old guy from about the same era. He worked on cars alot in the 50's and 60's. He told me that in the 80's. The yellow stuff is actually weatherstrip adhesive. Its stringy and gooey and doesn't shrink up.

 

[Irishman999]

be carefull where you place the tube of glue. I threw mine in my tool bag with a bunch of random tools, one being a box cutter knife. Just a small hole and that nasty yellow **** is all over my sockets and I am not sure how to get it off.

 

[HotRodPC]

That will keep the losers from stealing them Noone wants tools wth gorilla snot on the them.

 

[dhamp]

Had to revisit this thread for some feedback on another alternative......
I've seen some listed as "high-density cork/rubber material which is laminated to a steel core". What's the deal with that? Is the cork and rubber combined some kind of way? Is one side of the steel core cork, and the other side rubber? I've got to do VCs on my Chevelle yesterday, and the truck could use a set too.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Sounds like a thin piece of sheetmetal with cork on both sides, and the whole she-bang dipped in rubber. Sounds like a good one. The steel would keep it from breaking and the break spreading for a leak.

 

[HotRodPC]

I've never tried them. I try to avoid cork/rubber, but these might be ok. Worth a try if not terribly expensive. Otherwise I lke Neoprene Valve coverr gasket. They seem to be more foregivng of flaws in the valve cover flange as long as you got they eye ball straight.

 

[dhamp]

They're $15/each and they're Mr. Gasket Ultra-Seal. The neoprene ones with the steel core are $100/pair. That's a huge difference!! Is neoprene another name for platinum or something?? This is what they look like. The texture looks like cork. Maybe they rubberize it somehow.

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[dhamp]

For $50 I can get a pair of Moroso Perm Align neoprene w/the steel core. Would that be a better deal?

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[Chevyguy]

I never had good luck with rubber, it would push out or split, tried to glue them and sometimes it made it worse, had a set of rubber ones suck in once too, they were glued to the VC and still done it, but only because the choke shut and caused it I guess. everytime I had the choice of rubber or cork I went with cork, the rubber trans pan ones always give me trouble too. The ones for timing chain are the same way I use the paper ones instead. If I have to I use rubber and don't think much of it, but if it leaks I get mad.

Now my 88 has the rubber 1 piece oil pan seal and it's great.

When I worked for a transmission shop we would always toss out the rubber gasket that came with the filter kit and substitute a cork/rubber gasket instead. The owner kept pan gaskets for every transmission made. The oil pan on my 87 is the one piece rubber gasket. I used The Right Stuff Gasket Sealer on it and it's sealed well. Instructions in the gasket kit said not to use any sealer but I learned that lesson the first time I did one of those rubber oil pan gaskets. I always use RTV sealer, preferably the Right Stuff.

Clayton

 

[Chevyguy]

For $50 I can get a pair of Moroso Perm Align neoprene w/the steel core. Would that be a better deal?

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I would just get a set of the good rubber cork gaskets and maybe use a little sealer with them. I've really never had a problem with mine. Don't over tighten them. I haven't replaced mine in over six years, and mine are the center bolt covers. Unless your exhaust manifolds are right up on them and cooking them you shouldn't have a problem.

Clayton

 

[bucket]

They're $15/each and they're Mr. Gasket Ultra-Seal. The neoprene ones with the steel core are $100/pair. That's a huge difference!! Is neoprene another name for platinum or something?? This is what they look like. The texture looks like cork. Maybe they rubberize it somehow.

You must be registered for see images

I like using those, they seal great and they are often reusable if you don't put sealant on them (I don't). They are cork with some kind of rubber coating.