Vacuum switch, break switch, and wiring for 700-R4

[Matt69olds]

Pin F of the ALDL is converter clutch on most cars/trucks.

Have you tried plugging in the trans connector? Sometimes the solenoids stick after they get hot. That will kill the engine coming to a stop. It’s pretty common for people to be cheap and just unplug it instead of replacing the solenoid. It would suck to spend a bunch of time trying to get it working when all it needs is a solenoid replacement.

Maybe I missed it, but what year vehicle are you working on? If it’s a older truck with primitive lockup control, bite the bullet and get the fancy lockup controller from Bow tie overdrive. It has a brake switch, vacuum switch, timer module, and the wiring to make it work. You will probably spend almost the same money and far more time pricing it together.

Once the timer detects 4th gear, it waits 8 seconds before locking the converter. Touch the brakes, the converter automatically unlocks, after a few seconds it locks again. Stand on the loud pedal, engine vacuum drops, the converter instantly unlocks, once vacuum returns after a delay it locks again. The timer gets rid of the jerking/hunting sensation of the converter locking.

If the factory PCM is designed to control lockup, you probably need to get a good service manual and figure out what’s been cut or modified.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Pin F of the ALDL is converter clutch on most cars/trucks.

Have you tried plugging in the trans connector? Sometimes the solenoids stick after they get hot. That will kill the engine coming to a stop. It’s pretty common for people to be cheap and just unplug it instead of replacing the solenoid. It would suck to spend a bunch of time trying to get it working when all it needs is a solenoid replacement.

Maybe I missed it, but what year vehicle are you working on? If it’s a older truck with primitive lockup control, bite the bullet and get the fancy lockup controller from Bow tie overdrive. It has a brake switch, vacuum switch, timer module, and the wiring to make it work. You will probably spend almost the same money and far more time pricing it together.

Once the timer detects 4th gear, it waits 8 seconds before locking the converter. Touch the brakes, the converter automatically unlocks, after a few seconds it locks again. Stand on the loud pedal, engine vacuum drops, the converter instantly unlocks, once vacuum returns after a delay it locks again. The timer gets rid of the jerking/hunting sensation of the converter locking.

If the factory PCM is designed to control lockup, you probably need to get a good service manual and figure out what’s been cut or modified.

I was going to say, isnt it just a lot easier to ground the F terminal on the connector(would have to look at it to see which it is, the letters are on the outside I think)

 

[Matt69olds]

Looks like grounding pin F will lock the converter, assuming the wiring is good.

If you put a test light on pin F you can test the wiring to the trans, thru the brake switch, and related parts.