Used Edelbrock 1406 carb

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75Monza

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It's been 4 or 5 years since I did a quadrajet, but seem to remember there is a cam linkage with the secondary stop that will block the secondary from opening until the choke is open all the way (ie. engine warmed up). When putting back together it is possible to get the linkage arms and cam wrong so that it is always blocking the secondary stop, would have to fiddle with one again to remember exactly, lol.
 

Ewhitaker0020

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It's a progressive linkage, so the primaries open before the secondaries. It "kind of" looks like it's working properly in the video but your description seems like you're concerned about the amount of effort. A TV cable on a 700R4 has a fair amount of resistance so don't let that fool you if it's hooked up. And yes, you need it to be correct or the transmission will fail.

As someone else described, you need to get someone else in the cab to mash the pedal while you look to see what's happening in the carb. Also, look for that accelerator pump shot when they first step on it.

And, don't listen to the haters. Quadrajets are great carbs, especially on a stock application.


I'm glad to hear that the transmission cable seems correct. It shifts fine so I guess it is.

I will get my wife to mash the pedal tonight when she gets home. I jammed a piece of wood against the pedal last night so I could check the secondaries and they were only open about 1/16". I will redo the test with another person though go verify.

How open should the primaries be before the secondaries start to open? Also, can I even see the primaries without taking the carb off the car?

I'm hoping to get the quadrajet running because I've already rebuilt it and would like to know I did a decent job.
 

Ewhitaker0020

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It's been 4 or 5 years since I did a quadrajet, but seem to remember there is a cam linkage with the secondary stop that will block the secondary from opening until the choke is open all the way (ie. engine warmed up). When putting back together it is possible to get the linkage arms and cam wrong so that it is always blocking the secondary stop, would have to fiddle with one again to remember exactly, lol.


I removed that linkage that blocks the secondaries from opening until the choke is warmed up because a guy who makes videos for rebuilding quadrajets suggested to. I don't ever plan on flooring the gas pedal while the engine is cold anyways, so it won't be an issue.
 

Frankenchevy

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Also, can I even see the primaries without taking the carb off the car?
Once the truck is warmed up, that choke plate should open. Then you can see the primaries.
 

75Monza

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Possibly a stupid question, but when you bolted carb back on the intake, before you tightened the bolts did you make sure the primary and secondary plates didn't hang on the gasket from closed to wide open?
 

Ewhitaker0020

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Possibly a stupid question, but when you bolted carb back on the intake, before you tightened the bolts did you make sure the primary and secondary plates didn't hang on the gasket from closed to wide open?

No stupid questions. But, yes I checked for that. I can operate the secondaries by hand and they move freely.

http://imgur.com/gallery/Oxc1d89

I adjusted the throttle linkage and it opens much better now. I may need to adjust it just a little more.
 

Ronno6

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My 84 came with a 1496.
The throttle shaft bore was worn badly causing excessive shaft play.
this made the throttle stick when the engine was running due to airflow against the butterflys.
Made taking off from a stop rather balky with a stick shift as the throttle was very sticky, and idle was erratic.

I went with a Holley.
 

trukman1

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Ewhitaker0020, You might try calling National Carburetors and talk to a tech. If you give them ALL the information on your vehicle they can custom build a carb for you. They should ask all the engine specs, vehicle, vehicle weight, gearing, transmission, and probably more. I even had to tell my compression ratio, cam specs, etc. Will probably cost around $120 but well worth it. See if Eddie Obie is still there. Ask for him first. They rebuild carbs for most auto stores and can do all the custom tricks as well. I used to rebuild carbs for extra money but I never had the resources to custom jet a carb for performance engines. (Did stock rebuilds only.) Number is (904) 636-9400 is their number. Worth at least talking to them, IMO.
 

MikeB

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A new totally stock 1406 should work with minimal adjustments (all external), especially at or near sea level. It comes with a great user manual that explains each adjustment, as well as jet and metering rod adjustment/selection, if necessary. After you get the idle mixture and idle speed set, one of the most common issues I've found is an off-idle hesitation that can be resolved with 2-4 degrees more initial spark advance.

However, with a used carb, you never know what you're getting, regardless of seller description. It is very common for air bleeds to be semi-clogged and brass parts corroded. I say this having bought and sold 1405, 1406, and 1407 carbs for a few years. I can honestly say, I never bought a used one that was anywhere near as good as described. But the good thing is just about every one of them was totally stock, because those carbs are typically bought as "bolt on and go".

You can usually tell a used carb's condition by its appearance. If it looks shiny and new it's probably fine. If it's faded to gray, you never know what you're getting. You may have to disassemble it, soak the parts in carb cleaner overnight, followed by using wire and compressed air to clean & blow out the air bleeds. Then you may have to replace any corroded parts like jets.

As an alternative, Holley has an eBay store where they sell factory refurbished carbs. I have bought two of them over the years, and both were literally like new. Here's one that would work well with minimal adjustments, possibly including float level. If the link doesn't work, you can google "Holley eBay store".

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-0-8...632054&hash=item418af91a00:g:SpUAAOSwU-pXvK-h
 

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