Upper A-Arm Mounts: Replace Studs or Replace Bracket?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

KCKKen

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Posts
59
Reaction score
123
Location
Kansas City, Kansas
First Name
Ken
Truck Year
1985/1978
Truck Model
1500/C20
Engine Size
350/350
Hi Everyone!

Been a while since I last checked in, have been too busy with the full-time job to devote much time to the truck.

However, I was able to get some "wrench therapy" in today, and finished removing the front suspension. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to remove the front crossmember so I can clean everything and start the rebuild process. When I removed the left upper A-Arm I saw considerable corrosion on the shank of the rear mount, so now I need to decide how to go about replacing it. LMC shows both the entire bracket and the studs available on their own, so which one is a better choice? The thought is that if I'm replacing one I might as well replace all four, it'll be as stripped as it was when new in 85 when I start the rebuild process.

With everything removed, is it easy to just replace the studs? If I replace the bracket, can I go back with bolts where the factory rivets are now?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice! I'm really hoping to make a lot of progress as soon as the weather breaks here, with the frame as empty as possible I can get it outside and clean it, get it over to the media blaster folks and have it ready for paint, then the assembly process can get started.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,420
Reaction score
28,252
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
If I have ever replaced those studs, it's been long enough that I don't remember doing it. Iirc, they are just kinda pressed in. If the nuts ever come loose and shims fall out, I know you risk knocking those studs out of their holes if you drive it like that.

The frame rivets are a stronger connection, but you certainly can bolt in a new bracket. Just use quality Grade 8 hardware, including the nuts and washers. Also use the pinch lock style nuts.
 

KCKKen

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Posts
59
Reaction score
123
Location
Kansas City, Kansas
First Name
Ken
Truck Year
1985/1978
Truck Model
1500/C20
Engine Size
350/350
Thanks for the response! After I posted that I found the replacement studs through LMC, so I will replace all four while the crossmember is out. This is one of those safety items I don't want to skimp on, and now is the best time to get this handled. Still trying to thoroughly clean out the inside of it in preparation for re-coating/rustproofing. Progress is being made!

Take Care,
KS
 

KCKKen

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Posts
59
Reaction score
123
Location
Kansas City, Kansas
First Name
Ken
Truck Year
1985/1978
Truck Model
1500/C20
Engine Size
350/350
Hi Everyone!

After battling a couple of medical issues I'm about to get back to the 85 GMC. First thing is to have the frame and front crossmember blasted so I can paint them and start the reassembly. The "have to do" thing is those studs - can't live with corrosion that has obliterated the threads and a portion of the un-threaded shank on more than one of the four bolts, and with the crossmember un-bolted it will be easy to take to a press and get them out/replace them.

That being said, has anyone replaced these lately? Wondering how stubborn these nearly-40-year-old studs will be. Once I have them replaced I'll make sure to update everyone.

Take Care,
KS
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,101
Posts
949,384
Members
36,198
Latest member
squarebody2013
Top