Turpentine Dual Tanks

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Stroked

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Holy crap, that's nasty!


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chengny

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Jeezum Crow, that will be tough to flush out with installed.

But you still don't need to necessarily buy a new tank.

Pull your tank (you are going to have to anyway) and try to clean it by putting in a couple of gallons of fresh gas. Shake it around, dump it out, do it again.

Connect a hose to a hot water supply (the hot water valve that supplies your clothes washer is a good place). Use a nozzle and wash it out with the hottest water you can make (temporarily turn your water heater up to max - that should get it up to about 170 F).

If you keep getting that sludge, it might be time to start checking craigslist for a good used tank.
 

bucket

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From what I remember a couple years ago, a new tank at the parts store is a little over 100 bucks.
 

Boone83K10

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RockAuto has them for 80 shipped
 

Boone83K10

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that's why the old tank is in the demolition pile
 

Boone83K10

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ok question...

Why are 20 gallon tanks cheaper than 16 gallon?

Can I put a 20 gallon tank in place of the 16 gallon that came off with no modification?
 

Stroked

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I know they can be switched out. The bracket needs moved farther back for the 20 gal tank and the holes are already in the frame for it on a longbed(20gal tanks won't fit a shortbed). Then you will need to modify the filler hose or buy the correct one. Probably a couple other small things too.
 
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Boone83K10

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Update!

1---So I haven't bought anything yet. Got a guy who has a 16 gallon tank off an 83 carb truck for $25.. worth it? He says it don't leak and that it is clean on the inside, I have yet to see it... or should I just get a new one from RockAuto for $80 shipped and forget about it.

2--- I did some testing on the selector valve I have. If I press it to passenger side, I hear it click and then the Fuel Gauge pegs to the 3 o clock position (nothing is hooked up to passenger side). Does that mean it works? or that still doesn't determine if the valve is actually moving to provide fuel?

3--- My metal filler pipe, return pipe and filler neck are all gunky and rusted on the inside. Soaking them for a couple weeks in the "turpentine" gas I had left didn't clean the inside of them. My filler pipes are not what LMC shows I should have. Looking at picture below... I have filler neck #9.. but my metal filler pipes look like #4 and #6 from the 73-78 section. Now, are #11 and #13 in 79-87 section, the rubber hoses or are they the metal part? Do they replace both metal pipe and rubber hose?
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smurph20

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Ive done the whole buying a used tank deal and it burned me badley to the tune of having to now buy a new sending unit and a strap it to remount a new tank. Just buy the new tank and get it done the right way now and not worry about it for another 20 years.
 

Boone83K10

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yeah I think I will get a new tank.

But now after I switched to passenger side and gauge pegged out at 3 o clock...when I switched back to driver side, it reads between F and 3/4 and doesn't move.. WTF?:angry94:

It read perfectly until now... HELP!
 
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HotRodPC

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If it's a standard longbed, the 20gal should fit just fine using the same brackets. Shortbed, the spring hangers would be in the way and no go.
Just a tip, if it were me, I'd be buying tanks for an 87. Might cost a big more but worth it later on down the road if you ever upgrade to TBI, Vortec or LS engine that requires an electric fuel pump. The 87 tank I think has a small sump area where the E pump would go. It's also baffled to keep your gas from sloshing around in the tank which is a benefit on a 4x4 anyway even if running a manual fuel pump, while out wheeling and climbing hill. The 87 is a TBI tank and why it's set up for with the fuel pump sump and baffles.
 

Boone83K10

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ok.. but what about my fuel gauge staying between 3/4 and Full at all times now
 

HotRodPC

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If you've got that kind of gunk in your tanks, I'd suspect a stuck float on the sending unit.
 

Boone83K10

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ok let me revisit everything..

Driver Tank:
Tank is new
Truck runs off driver tank
There is nothing wrong with this tank
Fuel gauge worked perfect for this tank


Passenger tank:
full of gunk and turpentine smelling gas
sending unit no good, full of gunk
Lines were clear outside of tank
tank and old gas are gone
filler neck and metal filler pipes are very "rusty/flaky" inside, want to clean and reuse.
If cannot reuse filler components, see picture/explaination above for my questions on buying new ones.


Selector valve:
I believe actual fuel supplying valve has failed
I believe sending unit "valve" has failed now giving bad readings for working driver tank

Dash Selector Switch:
in good working order
 
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