Hmm, I just wandered onto this thread. I didn’t get a notification for the tag... Just curious, when you replaced the senders, did you replace the pumps? A fuel pressure test might be in order just to make sure you’ve got good pressure. You can borrow the whole test kit at Autozone. I’d check the injectors to make sure they’re spraying a very fine, conical spray. If they’re real drippy or the spray pattern is off, that can indicate a problem. No rodent issues? Reason I ask is a chewed spark plug wire that’s grounding against something can cause this. I’d check timing just to be safe. I’d do a once over of the cap just to make sure it’s not cracked. Check the MAP sensor hose and boots to make sure they’re tip top. Any little loss of vacuum can cause issues there. Speaking of which, go through and check everything for vacuum leaks. You can do most of this visually (cracked or snapped lines), by smoking them out (blowing cigarette, cigar, or vape smoke backwards from the TBI to see if any wafts out), by capping things off to see if it runs better (i.e brake booster, rear manifold nipple, TBI vacuum ports), etc. The EGR valve is a little trickier. Make sure the plunger in it moves freely when it’s cold, or you’ll burn yourself pretty good if it’s hot. For a vacuum retention test, taking into consideration different designs of EGR valves, I’d plug the port and see if runs better going down the highway. Finally, you can get a baby can of ether and spray around the TBI base to see if the idle speed changes.
