truck runs hot

[PrairieDrifter]

looking like i had two faulty gauges o’reilly gauge was reading 195 on idle factory gauge was reading 212+ used a temp gun i was getting 190 at the heads but figured that wasn’t accurate because it was picking up heat from the exhaust so measured at intake manifold near the ecu temp sensor and was getting 178

That's been the theme lately. My factory gauge reads a little high as well. Same with voltage, and my oil pressure gauge just **** the bed lol.

I really like my autometer oil pressure gauge. Other than the cheesy light socket. I would verify with a quality gauge.

 

[rich weyand]

Usually the classic big blocks run hot and the small blocks run cold.

I will support the statements here: 1) check the actual water temp by reading the thermostat housing with an infrared thermometer; 2) make sure your vacuum advance is hooked to manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum is pollution control nonsense and will make the engine run hot.

 

[Matt69olds]

Make sure all the rubber fillers and plastic shrouding is in place around the radiator. Any air that enters the grill needs to exit thru the radiator.

Air will take the path of least resistance, if it’s easier to go around the radiator than thru it that’s exactly what it will do.

Fill any gaps between the radiator and core support with the foam used to seal home air conditioners to the window frame.

 

[Camar068]

Not to talk **** on oreillys but they have a lot of garbage. I hate to say fork up some money for an autometer or equivalent, but. If you have a temp gun already that should work. I've just never got real accurate readings with that, as well as you can't monitor while driving.

I've heard some rads are too dense, and they don't cool efficiently. The cheap spectras don't last, but I've never got hot.

After reading here about old school radiators and new replacements, I stuck with the original. When I did the swap though, I did use a Spectre fuel tank and not any issues out of it.

For the fan I went ford windstar TYC brand

 

[Bextreme04]

The old radiators using brass cores had round tubes that were larger and did not have turbulators in them. Modern aluminum cores are thin and long tubes with tubulators in them that work to increase the thermal efficiency. I have a modern aluminum radiator fro ma 97 K2500 454 Suburban in my 1980 K25. It is a two core, but those two cores are thicker than the stock 4 core radiator was. It rarely even kicks the electric fans on unless I am stopped for extended periods of time in 100 degree heat.

You will read higher temps at the cylinder head. It will read cooler at the water neck.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

After reading here about old school radiators and new replacements, I stuck with the original. When I did the swap though, I did use a Spectre fuel tank and not any issues out of it.

For the fan I went ford windstar TYC brand

Good choice. The spectras work just fine, I just haven't had one last in my truck more than a year and a half. That being said the temperature fluctuations in my area are insane, so I'm not super mad. Theyre like $120 so it's not terrible.

 

[armor2111]

I am going to go out on a limb and say I have a 350 with a 4 barrel. My head and block cracked from overheating. Not from a loss of antifreeze, but from the pan attached to the underside of the intake manifold just below the carburetor. The pan had hardened burnt oil and it got very hot. enough to crack the head and block. Hope this is of some help.

 

[82sbshortbed]

https://www.alloyworksplus.com/products/3-row-aluminum-radiator-for-chevy-c10-custom-deluxe-pickup-suburban-v8-1973-1991?variant=5c73f023-050a-4720-8eb1-4ce7b01e3a69&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz8emBhDrARIsANNJjS4ErtC4pL0s9wfKqQf76gN0Cv5zciAyjCGpRfwwyp-BAB75CXlrv24aAlK2EALw_wcB

Been looking at this one for the 82. Don't have a repair shop around that can fix the old one that has a leak.

 

[SquareRoot]

I am going to go out on a limb and say I have a 350 with a 4 barrel. My head and block cracked from overheating. Not from a loss of antifreeze, but from the pan attached to the underside of the intake manifold just below the carburetor. The pan had hardened burnt oil and it got very hot. enough to crack the head and block. Hope this is of some help.

I don't think so. That's just a splash shield to keep the oil off the intake. Cracked head and block is a different issue.

 

[45tt]

Sometimes new parts can be bad outta the box. I’ve had that issue several times with mine

 

[Camar068]

Good choice. The spectras work just fine, I just haven't had one last in my truck more than a year and a half. That being said the temperature fluctuations in my area are insane, so I'm not super mad. Theyre like $120 so it's not terrible.

don't forget if you put a thermistor inline, you'll clip that in-rush current. Typically 35 amps (starting).....then stabilizing at 10 amps (normal running). This allows you to use a 15-20 amp relay as compared to a 40+ amp relay. About 3 bucks each and you save money. 1 per fan.

If anyone is curious how they work link below. Can remove or add to another thread, not intending to hijack, but share for a "while you're there" suggestion.

Thermistor to Clip In-Rush (Starting Current)

 

[Bextreme04]

I am going to go out on a limb and say I have a 350 with a 4 barrel. My head and block cracked from overheating. Not from a loss of antifreeze, but from the pan attached to the underside of the intake manifold just below the carburetor. The pan had hardened burnt oil and it got very hot. enough to crack the head and block. Hope this is of some help.

I can say with 100% certainty that the splash shield having carbon built up behind it did not cause your engine to overheat and the block or heads to crack. The only purpose of that shield is to keep the coking of the oil to a minimum as it splashes up on the underside of the intake. That spot that is covered by that shield has super hot exhaust gas running through it and the oil will burn to it without the shield in place. The most likely cause of a cracked block AND head would be from not running enough antifreeze in a cold climate and having the water freeze inside it. Overheating shouldn't cause a crack either, but having cracks in the block and head would let all of the coolant run out or not let the system pressurize. That would then cause the overheating.

 

[Snoots]

You suppose the radiator cap is not holding good pressure?

 

[BurbanPena]

thanks for all the great input!! everyone, here is a update

just installed a glow shift temp gauge got all the wires routed and gauge mounted,
tomorrow i will get the temp sensor installed i plan on putting it in the thermostat housing to get a accurate coolant temp with out the exhaust manifold heating up the sensor

 

[gmbellew]

thanks for all the great input!! everyone, here is a update

just installed a glow shift temp gauge got all the wires routed and gauge mounted,
tomorrow i will get the temp sensor installed i plan on putting it in the thermostat housing to get a accurate coolant temp with out the exhaust manifold heating up the sensor

the computer uses the temp sensor next to the thermostat housing. so don't use that location.