truck is not sitting level - need help diagnosing

[Juggernaut]

I would have the springs re-arched. Most truck and spring repair shops can re-arch leaf springs. You will need to get new U-bolts, you never want to reuse U-bolts. And if you decide to use a spacer, use only 1, never stack spacers or blocks between the leaf spring and axle

 

[Raider L]

@Juggernaut,

Yes, I've seen the same advice in 4 x 4 off roading mags. They advise against blocks under the leaf pack. I causes instability, and breakage. They say re-curve springs, or get a set that is curved more, or less. They say don't use blocks or hangers to raise or lower springs. Shims..good.

I don't off road, I read to retain info so in case I run across a problem later on it'll bring something to mind to help solve the problem.

This post on leaf spring problems is bringing up all kinds of recall I read in those mags about adjusting springs. I've not had these kinds of problems myself, but my springs are as old as some of these, my truck is a '74 and I've hauled all kinds of heavy loads. But fortunately my truck seems level.

 

[hpp]

(edit: I posted the update below without having seen the prior two posts. Maybe I'll use the 1/8" plates just for sizing, and then get a single spacer. Might still go for new springs. I'll consider it. I have a 2000 F150 that I use as a truck for hauling, etc. My C10 is just for cruising in nice weather.)



Update:

I added a 3/8" spacer (3 aluminum shims, each 2.5" x 6" x 1/8" thick) between leaf spring and axle perch on my low side. I used a new grade 5 bolt, 3/8" x 2.5" and rounded the hex head to match the original pin.

This helped a lot but not enough. I'm going to add another shim or two next and try again.

When I removed the u-bolts, it took a lot of torque to remove the nuts and the threads were partially stripped. I reassembled using the same u-bolts and used a combination of washers so the nuts would stop on parts of the stud with decent threads. I did this just to be able to reassemble and check stance. I don't plan on driving much until I replace with new u-bolts.

The u-bolts were 5/8" diameter. The inside diameter measured what I took at 3" even. However, I see some websites suggesting 3-1/8" diameter. Should the I.D. match exactly or have an extra 1/8"?

ORD has these 3" diameter https://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/product/view/id/1903/s/rear-u-bolts-round/category/545/
RockAuto has universal ones similar https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1077726&jsn=553

Can anyone confirm that 3" is correct and not 3-1/8"?

Thank you!

 

[Juggernaut]

3" should be correct for your 1/2 ton, 12 bolt axle. Making your own center bolt, in my opinion, is not a good idea. The correct bolt is not very expensive, just look on e-bay under leaf spring center bolt. They have various lengths. Also, as far as the aluminum shims go, unless they are made to go in the spring pack by the manufacturer, I wouldn't use them. Definitely wouldn't use home made aluminum shims.

 

[hpp]

I ended up adding another 3/8" spacer to first 3/8" spacer. Total of 3/4" between the axle and right rear leaf spring. This leveled the truck left to right.

For my permanent fix (I hope), I decided to order new leaf springs. Ordered the stock replacements with new u-bolts and bushings from RockAuto. Springs are Husky Springs 22-525.

I hope new springs will sit level. I'll update this thread after the install and evaluate the trucks stance.

Thanks for all of the replies and advice.

 

[hpp]

update: Received the Husky springs and installed them with new hardware and shackle bushings. truck rear sits about 1.5" higher than previous so the old springs were sagging. However... the truck is still lower on right but not as noticeable. Based on all prior comments and further inspection, I think the frame must be slightly twisted in the rear. Confident it was not from an accident as the rails are very smooth without any signs of crushing or repair from damage.

Anyway, I am happy as is and not planning to add to this thread unless any further comments come in. Thanks again to the forum members.

 

[hpp]

Update one year later. I took the bed off my truck. I found that the leaf spring hangers (front of leaf's, not rear shackle brackets) are not mounted at the same height relative to the top of the frame rail. I'm really curious to know if anyone else has run into this. I need to take measurements but I feel this is at least partly why my truck sits low at the back right corner.

What I can't figure out is this: the frame is predrilled and the leaf spring hanger is predrilled. Then they are riveted together. In my case, one set of the holes must be way off. Probably the hanger and poor quality control...? If the hanger is off, maybe I can replace it with one with correct holes.
See pictures. Pics may not show he difference in mounting height as well as in person.
Thoughts and suggestions please. Thanks.

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[Rusty Nail]

Whack it with a grinder?

 

[hpp]

Yes, I could use a grinder to cut it flush but I would really like to lower the bracket by a half inch instead to lower the axle relative to the frame.

Does anyone that lowered their rear end using lowering hangers still have the factory hangers and want to sell them?

 

[greyghost]

saddle needs to be empty, rear bumper removed or stop looking at it, measure from ground to frame both sides exact same spot, and mark it with chalk, measure forward from mark 3-4 feet mark that, works best just use inside edge of frame. same marks on other frame rail, now measure corner to corner marks , probly need couple more hands, if you cant get accurate with tape, use string that wont stretch and ink pen to mark string edge frame both corners. shud be identical, if not anything more 1/4 " frame bent, try figure out which way, n use jack to bend in or out, might have to break crossbeams to move it. or loosen up bumper raise one side up so no longer leans to eye

 

[hpp]

Another update:

I didn't make any changes to the right leaf spring hangers that I mentioned in my last update.

I moved on, and lowered my truck with drop coils, drop spindles, and an axle flip kit.

To my pleasant surprise my truck sits perfectly level now.

Including more info here as I hope it can help others.

As a reminder, the back right sat almost 1.5 inches lower than the back left.

Last year I installed new Husky leaf springs. This made a very small improvement, maybe a quarter inch improvement.

Couple months ago, I installed these parts:

Belltech 2" lowering springs Bell-4702 from Summit Racing.

CPP modular 2.5" drop spindles CLP-CP30106-4 and caliper brackets 6087DBK from Summit Racing. (This modular spindle allows for larger aftermarket brakes. However they dont use brake dust shields... this was a surprise. I also talked to CPP before purchasing about the use of Chevy 15" rally rims. Customer support seemed to have no insights. I knew it might be necessary from other people's posts. Anyway, I had to remove part of the lower control arms. Brake hose fitting on caliper ends needed to be bent to clear the upper ball joint castle nut and cutter pin. If I had a do over I would not get the modular ones.)

DJM axel clip kit FK1024-5 Axle Flip Kit from their Ebay store. (I liked the kit. Brackets seem very strong, included shock mounting bracket. Their instructions could have included more info but it's pretty intuitive. I had to bring away part of the u-bolt plate to clear the kit brack hardware. Pinion angle measured the same as before the flip so their design took care of this. I did not use a frame notch kit. Still plenty of clearance between axle and frame eith no load. They advertise this as a 5-6" drop. Actual was 5".)

If anyone doing a drop would like more info, I would be happy to provide more.

Here are some pics of the end product.

 

[SquareRoot]

I might add from experience that if your not taking measurements from a perfectly flat and level surface such as a frame jig in an alignment shop you might be chasing your tail. Don't assume that your garage floor or driveway is perfectly flat. Generally, its not noticeable to the eye.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Another update:

I didn't make any changes to the right leaf spring hangers that I mentioned in my last update.

I moved on, and lowered my truck with drop coils, drop spindles, and an axle flip kit.

To my pleasant surprise my truck sits perfectly level now.

Including more info here as I hope it can help others.

As a reminder, the back right sat almost 1.5 inches lower than the back left.

Last year I installed new Husky leaf springs. This made a very small improvement, maybe a quarter inch improvement.

Couple months ago, I installed these parts:

Belltech 2" lowering springs Bell-4702 from Summit Racing.

CPP modular 2.5" drop spindles CLP-CP30106-4 and caliper brackets 6087DBK from Summit Racing. (This modular spindle allows for larger aftermarket brakes. However they dont use brake dust shields... this was a surprise. I also talked to CPP before purchasing about the use of Chevy 15" rally rims. Customer support seemed to have no insights. I knew it might be necessary from other people's posts. Anyway, I had to remove part of the lower control arms. Brake hose fitting on caliper ends needed to be bent to clear the upper ball joint castle nut and cutter pin. If I had a do over I would not get the modular ones.)

DJM axel clip kit FK1024-5 Axle Flip Kit from their Ebay store. (I liked the kit. Brackets seem very strong, included shock mounting bracket. Their instructions could have included more info but it's pretty intuitive. I had to bring away part of the u-bolt plate to clear the kit brack hardware. Pinion angle measured the same as before the flip so their design took care of this. I did not use a frame notch kit. Still plenty of clearance between axle and frame eith no load. They advertise this as a 5-6" drop. Actual was 5".)

If anyone doing a drop would like more info, I would be happy to provide more.

Here are some pics of the end product.

Another update:

I didn't make any changes to the right leaf spring hangers that I mentioned in my last update.

I moved on, and lowered my truck with drop coils, drop spindles, and an axle flip kit.

To my pleasant surprise my truck sits perfectly level now.

Including more info here as I hope it can help others.

As a reminder, the back right sat almost 1.5 inches lower than the back left.

Last year I installed new Husky leaf springs. This made a very small improvement, maybe a quarter inch improvement.

Couple months ago, I installed these parts:

Belltech 2" lowering springs Bell-4702 from Summit Racing.

CPP modular 2.5" drop spindles CLP-CP30106-4 and caliper brackets 6087DBK from Summit Racing. (This modular spindle allows for larger aftermarket brakes. However they dont use brake dust shields... this was a surprise. I also talked to CPP before purchasing about the use of Chevy 15" rally rims. Customer support seemed to have no insights. I knew it might be necessary from other people's posts. Anyway, I had to remove part of the lower control arms. Brake hose fitting on caliper ends needed to be bent to clear the upper ball joint castle nut and cutter pin. If I had a do over I would not get the modular ones.)

DJM axel clip kit FK1024-5 Axle Flip Kit from their Ebay store. (I liked the kit. Brackets seem very strong, included shock mounting bracket. Their instructions could have included more info but it's pretty intuitive. I had to bring away part of the u-bolt plate to clear the kit brack hardware. Pinion angle measured the same as before the flip so their design took care of this. I did not use a frame notch kit. Still plenty of clearance between axle and frame eith no load. They advertise this as a 5-6" drop. Actual was 5".)

If anyone doing a drop would like more info, I would be happy to provide more.

Here are some pics of the end product.

Great looking truck!, I do see a front bumper alignment issue. It’s a little lower on the left (Driver’s side) than the right. Maybe enough to trick the eye? IDK… But I also have OCD

 

[hpp]

@SquareRoot , agreed.

@FireTruck1984 Thank you. I didn't mean to be literal when I said my truck was "perfectly" level now. I should have said something like, "it looks level now"

 

[Big red square]

Park it on level ground, jack the rear right under the chassis rail, not the axle, up until you have even measurement with the opposite side. See how it looks then. sounds like the rear leafs need resetting, one has sagged more than the other Take them to a spring works.

I did this jacked the bed up from the tow hitch and it still looks uneven