Truck died today when driving

[sgrinavi]

81 K20, 5.7, 4 speed, 160k miles

Today I was driving along in 4th gear at around 2k rpm and the truck just died, I depressed the clutch pedal, turned the key and it fired right back up.

It was like the key was shut off, all the gauges went back to the off position so I'm pretty sure it's not a fuel issue.

Ignition switch or lock cylinder going bad? That's wouldn't be an HEI issue, right?

This is the second time it's happened in as many months. Both times it hot and humid, if that matters, but not raining.

 

[TotalyHucked]

That could be many things. First and foremost, check all of your grounds. After that, I'd inspect the wiring from the dizzy/HEI unit. If all of that looks good, you may have a failing Ignition Control Module. The same thing happened in my '85 when it still had the 305 in it. It would randomly die, always when hot, and it was a crap shoot if it would start back up or not. Pull the ICM out and inspect, clean and put a small amount of dielectric grease on it. I'd try that before I bought a new one (but it's always good to carry one in the glovebox, they're prone to failure)

 

[scrap--metal]

My first thought was ignition control module as well.

but it's always good to carry one in the glovebox, they're prone to failure)

It's definitely worth having a spare, even if it's out of an old crusty distributor just for emergency use.

 

[Ricko1966]

If all the gauges turned off its a power issue, not ignition, not fuel. Start the truck wiggle battery cables i, keys,gnition switch harness etc. see if you can duplicate the problem

 

[scrap--metal]

If all the gauges turned off its a power issue, not ignition, not fuel. Start the truck wiggle battery cables ignition switch harness etc. see if you can duplicate the problem

I agree that it's not a fuel issue, but the truck wouldn't die while cruising at 2000 rpm from a loose battery cable. It would continue to run off the alternator.

If the op really lost all power to the gauges, maybe it's a connection at the fuse block? Ignition swith connection is also a good thought.

 

[Ricko1966]

I agree that it's not a fuel issue, but the truck wouldn't die while cruising at 2000 rpm from a loose battery cable. It would continue to run off the alternator.

If the op really lost all power to the gauges, maybe it's a connection at the fuse block? Ignition swith connection is also a good thought.

Okay it probably wouldn't die from a loose battery cable,it could,though. Depends on how the alternator is wired,and who wired it. On my 83 someone has the alternator charging lead hooked directly to battery + at the post,my 66 is set up the same way. My 75 alternator charge wire goes to starter plus so does my 86. So on the 83 and the 66 if you lose contact from battery plus to starter plus you lose everything. He needs to wiggle as many power and grounds as he can.

 

[Radiohead]

If all the gauges turned off its a power issue, not ignition, not fuel. Start the truck wiggle battery cables i, keys,gnition switch harness etc. see if you can duplicate the problem

Yeah, I had to re-read the description of the fault to catch that. Yes, it's an issue at a battery terminal, or at either lug at the starter or ground; could be where the intermittent connection is happening. As well as previous descriptions of things to check.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I like to blame the distributor connector.

 

[Camar068]

I like to blame the distributor connector.

100% agree, had one wire that had a butt connector on it and it lost connection over bumps. Check those first, takes 3 minutes. If you see a crimp connector at the terminal on the dizzy, close it up a bit with pliers to make the contact better.

Took 2 experiences to learn that one. Only takes 10 seconds under the hood to diagnose once you've been thru it lol.