Towing a diesel 2500 Burb on a 17’ flatbed trailer

[AuroraGirl]

The ramps can’t be removed.

how were they installed? They should be free floating on the piece they pivot on

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You welded them on? should have made them removeable

op should consider a adjustable height hitch, putting trailer tires at maximum PSI for stability/weight rating

Then also if you load a suburban on it, if your ramps cannot be removed, you should use tires or something strapped to the ramps to protect the truck, then strap the ramps lengthwise with the trailer to gently hold them up against the truck. should have designed a bar that holds them up.

Also your trailer should be supported with 6x6 blocked up at the end of the trailer (ramps with these supports can be fabricated in the future)

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This kinda strapping allows you to hold ramps at various angles.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Those ramps are definitely well made, but that fold up style is a PITA on a car trailer. If you plan to haul a lot of cars I'd recommend making them so they slide under the trailer for storage. I did that with mine and it's super handy.

You'll have to strap the ramps to the rear bumper of the suburban. Keep in mind the suburban will bounce around on the trailer as you hit bumps. The ramps will rub against the bumper and the straps holding them will loosen up as that happens. You'll have to check them often. I had a hell of a time pulling a full size 60s oldsmobile like that once. After that I moved the ramps below the deck for storage.

I don’t plan on towing vehicles with it regularly. This was my primary equipment trailer for a while. Mostly for tractors.

You welded them on? should have made them removeable

I know, that is a good point and something I would do if I was the only one who used the trailer.

The reason these got welded on is that I had an employee who left my other trailer’s ramps on a job, then didn’t have enough talent to figure out how to get the piece of equipment off the following day. Another guy (his buddy, both of whom were let go after the incident I’m about to describe following a failed drug test), backed over a ramp and it tilted up into the body of my 12v ram.

Anyway, they turned out to be idiots and I idiot proofed this trailer. Can’t forget the ramps if they’re attached.

I use a strap to hold them up when I’m in transport. This trailer has been retired to the property for the last year and a half, so it’s use is fairly infrequent.

As you can see on that dovetail above, most lighter vehicles/tractors don’t need the self supporting ramps or jacks in the corners. The ball keeps the trailer’s rear end from going down. I’ve had mini excavators, skid steers, TLBs, etc. up and down ramps without supports thousands of times. I does make you a little uneasy the first few times you do it, I’ll give you that. The ramps will bend before the hitch pops off. At least in my experience.

 

[Grit dog]

For ***** and giggles I put the burb in the “will this work” form on U-Haul’s website and they say I’m good to go!

Lots of car and equipment haulers don’t have a front rail, but I see your concern. I have four 3333 wheel lassos and four chain binder combos that I use for equipment, but I’m experienced with how that stuff balances out.

The ramps don’t come off, they just pivot up. I built them when I bought this trailer from a solar generator company that went out of business. They are super stout, but still probably no more than 70lbs each.

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I think I’m going to buy one of those weigh safe hitches that tells you your tongue weight.

Thats funny. Although it will fit. Uhaul trailer will tow like **** because the deck is short and the axles are more forward than most car haulers. A vehicle that has a wheelbase as long as the trailer will be tongue light.
You’ll be fine but may need to move it back a bit. You have lots of adjustment core and aft except for the folding ramps. But you can strap them up to the back bumper of the burb. **** it, will keep tailgaters off your ass!
If you load it all the way forward it will be tongue heavy. But also **** it, that doesn’t really matter either if you have a good receiver. The Ram will handle the tongue weight. I pulled a toyhauler around for years with 1600-1800 lb tongue weight. No load dist hitch. Pulls really straight with that much tongue weight!! Lol
I’d just look for the happy medium between the ramps sticking out and heavy tongue weight.

 

[Ricko1966]

I pulled my burb home from Salina Kansas on a 16ft flat bed,no problem

I don’t plan on towing vehicles with it regularly. This was my primary equipment trailer for a while. Mostly for tractors.

I know, that is a good point and something I would do if I was the only one who used the trailer.

The reason these got welded on is that I had an employee who left my other trailer’s ramps on a job, then didn’t have enough talent to figure out how to get the piece of equipment off the following day. Another guy (his buddy, both of whom were let go after the incident I’m about to describe following a failed drug test), backed over a ramp and it tilted up into the body of my 12v ram.

Anyway, they turned out to be idiots and I idiot proofed this trailer. Can’t forget the ramps if they’re attached.

I use a strap to hold them up when I’m in transport. This trailer has been retired to the property for the last year and a half, so it’s use is fairly infrequent.

As you can see on that dovetail above, most lighter vehicles/tractors don’t need the self supporting ramps or jacks in the corners. The ball keeps the trailer’s rear end from going down. I’ve had mini excavators, skid steers, TLBs, etc. up and down ramps without supports thousands of times. I does make you a little uneasy the first few times you do it, I’ll give you that. The ramps will bend before the hitch pops off. At least in my experience.

Look at the bottom pic of post #16 that's how my ramps are,works l8ke a champ. I won't say I've had zero issues,but the most part a good setup.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I don’t plan on towing vehicles with it regularly. This was my primary equipment trailer for a while. Mostly for tractors.

I know, that is a good point and something I would do if I was the only one who used the trailer.

The reason these got welded on is that I had an employee who left my other trailer’s ramps on a job, then didn’t have enough talent to figure out how to get the piece of equipment off the following day. Another guy (his buddy, both of whom were let go after the incident I’m about to describe following a failed drug test), backed over a ramp and it tilted up into the body of my 12v ram.

Anyway, they turned out to be idiots and I idiot proofed this trailer. Can’t forget the ramps if they’re attached.

I use a strap to hold them up when I’m in transport. This trailer has been retired to the property for the last year and a half, so it’s use is fairly infrequent.

As you can see on that dovetail above, most lighter vehicles/tractors don’t need the self supporting ramps or jacks in the corners. The ball keeps the trailer’s rear end from going down. I’ve had mini excavators, skid steers, TLBs, etc. up and down ramps without supports thousands of times. I does make you a little uneasy the first few times you do it, I’ll give you that. The ramps will bend before the hitch pops off. At least in my experience.

I personally like to block the rear because of predictability and overall nothing to do with the pulling vehicle
I personally have a small dovetail off the back of my trailer but i have no flip up ramps like yours to stay on it all the time, i use some short steeel ones that work oK or a long piece of wood wrapped in diamond plate stuff, surprisingly holds about 3k pounds without a center support

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You can see the ramps kinda here