Torque converter connector

[HotRodPC]

Looks to be the standard Lock Up TCC 700r4 Converter to me. What's the purpose of moving the switch? It needs to be in the correct position to get the pressure. Moving it might not be a good idea, unless you're sure it's in the wrong hole. I can't find my 700r4 book to save my life.

I'm thinking very seriously about putting a 700r4 in my C20 behind the stock OEM 454. It's not a power house engine, but I'm going lower gear and want to start getting back into 700r4's, get more knowledgable about them and up to date, and revive the old memory. I hope when I open one up again, I'll start remembering ****. Bad part is, I didn't work on but 1, maybe 2 or 3 later one with the aux valve body IIRC. Most of what I did with 700r4's was built the old junky ones 82-86 for retrofits into Jags, Willy's and some Th350 swaps to get OD into the older cars. Dec. 1990 is when I moved to OK, and I only done maybe 20 trans jobs since I've been here. So my experience on 700r4s is very little compared to Th350s, and Th400's. About in the same boat as glides too. I didn't do many Powerglides even back in the 80's and 90's.

 

[VAL]

I was looking at the original wiring set ups from the factory on my truck, and all that info that Chengny provided, and My guess from the look at whats in my tranny now, its been tamped with before. When I first got the truck the PO said he had a shift kit installed, prior to him blowing the original engine. All the online stuff I've investigated, and Chengny's info, indicates the 4th pressure port is right next to where I have my pressure switch at the moment, on the 4-3 port. Its just been something I've been kicking around in my head, to help me not go psyco trying to understand the pressure switch thing I was ranting about earlier.

 

[HotRodPC]

Closed Circuit means it has pressure from 4th Gear. Picture a wire with a door in it. Open door mean no connection made, so it's an open circuit. Close the wire door, now all the wires are connected and makes a closed circuit.

As in when we refer to ECM's and On Board Computers. They don't go into CLOSED Loop, until the temperature sensor gets hot enough, then it CLOSES, the computer is now in CLOSED Loop, and it's taking in info and data, and sending out instructions. That is moreless on the older C4 and CCC computers you'll hear that lingo. Certain features do work even when cold, but timing is not advanced until motor reaches Closed Loop operation, Lock Up if it's getting signal from a TBI ECM, will not allow lock signal until the ECM has gone into CLOSED Loop etc. Hopefully that helps.

 

[VAL]

Closed Circuit means it has pressure from 4th Gear. Picture a wire with a door in it. Open door mean no connection made, so it's an open circuit. Close the wire door, now all the wires are connected and makes a closed circuit.

As in when we refer to ECM's and On Board Computers. They don't go into CLOSED Loop, until the temperature sensor gets hot enough, then it CLOSES, the computer is now in CLOSED Loop, and it's taking in info and data, and sending out instructions. That is moreless on the older C4 and CCC computers you'll hear that lingo. Certain features do work even when cold, but timing is not advanced until motor reaches Closed Loop operation, Lock Up if it's getting signal from a TBI ECM, will not allow lock signal until the ECM has gone into CLOSED Loop etc. Hopefully that helps.

That's exactly what I needed to hear, now it all makes sense. HotRod, your a badass when it comes to explaining complicated **** in layman's terms. Thanks!

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah sometimes. If you can handle the long winded posts. Some don't like those.

 

[VAL]

Well anyways, I just walked in the house after a few hours of working on my truck. I got the new pressure switch & harness in the mail this afternoon, I just finished installing everything. I used the red wire for the 12V power and the blue wire is for an indicator led light that I'm gonna put in the cab somewhere. I got it temporarily wired to a toggle switch, until I decide which vacuum switch to get either the adjustable 1-6 inch lbs., http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com...itch_1_6_Inches_of_vacuum_p/350-00000k052.htm
or the 6-22 inch lbs., http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com...tch_6_22_inches_of_vacuum_p/350-00000k058.htm
I'm really gonna need some input on that one.
Here's some pics!

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[VAL]

And here's a pic of the new connector. Its kinda blurry, but that what happens when your taking a pic with your phone, with a drop of tranny fluid right smack on the lens.

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[HotRodPC]

New **** is so purdy !!!

 

[350runner]

Val you need to know at what inch lbs the trans downshift from 4/od to 3 to know which switch to get. Otherwise it's just an guesstimate.proper way is to buy a cheap vac gauge install it to a manifold vac source and go for a ride.

 

[VAL]

Val you need to know at what inch lbs the trans downshift from 4/od to 3 to know which switch to get. Otherwise it's just an guesstimate.proper way is to buy a cheap vac gauge install it to a manifold vac source and go for a ride.

I'm on the prowl after this guy on craigslist the has a MAC vacuum guage on there for $30, it a nice one too. I've left him a couple of messages in the last few days, and still no response. I hate that ****, people put up ads to sell **** and then they don't answer your calls, happens to me all the time.

 

[350runner]

Happens to me too. I got mine from hf after all the b.s. from cl. It's big though like 5 inches lol.Just a temp thing at the time 2 years ago Haaaa!

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm on the prowl after this guy on craigslist the has a MAC vacuum guage on there for $30, it a nice one too. I've left him a couple of messages in the last few days, and still no response. I hate that ****, people put up ads to sell **** and then they don't answer your calls, happens to me all the time.

Mighty Vac in the aluminum model is a good one too. You can usually get the whole kit with attachments and carrying case for $40-$50 on eBay. I bought off eBay not long ago to replace mine that I had for over 20 years. I then put a rebuild kit in the older one and it seems to work fine now too. We'll see next time I need to use it.

 

[VAL]

Ok guys, I tidied everything up tonight, wired up the toggle switch, wired in an indicator light, took it for a spin on the freeway, got up to cruising speed, hit the switch, and absolutely nothing happened. I checked all 12V power from toggle switch to case connector and everything is good, the indicator light is wired in, in between the pressure switch and the solenoid. The power is not getting by the pressure switch, or my indicator light would have come on. What's next, I have No ******* clue. Maybe something's wrong with the valve body on the 4-3 pressure port? The pressure switch is brand new. Are the stubs on the pressure switch side specific?

 

[350runner]

No the tabs on the switch are not. Did the lock up feature ever work?
Hate to say it but last option go straight to the solenoid with 12v. If that don't work...

 

[Boone83K10]

Ive heard of OD not working after new switches put in. I read that you need to jack up the rear and run it upwards of 100 mph and alternate b/w accelerate and letting off gas pedal to get them to work. Crude way but I bet it works.

If not, didn't your truck use EGR bleed solenoid within the wiring to the trans? Did you elimnate that or forget to include it?