Torque converter connector

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VAL

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I was up till 3am this morning reading everything I could on 700r4 valve bodies. I have come to the conclusion that my pressure switch is in the wrong port. I have it on the 4-3 port right now(because that's where it was when I first opened up the tranny). According to what I read last night/this morning, the 4-3 pressure port on the valve body only has pressure when it down shifts from 4gear to 3rd gear. When I took it out for a spin last light, I didn't try to make it down shift at all. I just went through all the gears, hit the toggle switch in 4th gear, from my understanding there's no pressure in the 4-3 port at that time. I'm going to move the switch over to the 4th gear port, and then try it again.
My truck did use a an EGR bleed solenoid at one time, but I completely eliminated it from the wiring.
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Boone83K10

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but in your picture you bought a 3 wire terminal... what did you use the EGR line for?

also I think you actually need another switch and some more wiring..you should keep the 4-3 I believe.

check this stuff out.
 

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VAL

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I'm only using 2 of the wires at the terminal, one for 12V power, and the 2nd for a indicator light. the 3rd one is just the capped off.
 

Boone83K10

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I'm only using 2 of the wires at the terminal, one for 12V power, and the 2nd for a indicator light. the 3rd one is just the capped off.

check the attachments I put up in post above yours...
 

VAL

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No the tabs on the switch are not. Did the lock up feature ever work?
Hate to say it but last option go straight to the solenoid with 12v. If that don't work...

Ive heard of OD not working after new switches put in. I read that you need to jack up the rear and run it upwards of 100 mph and alternate b/w accelerate and letting off gas pedal to get them to work. Crude way but I bet it works.

If not, didn't your truck use EGR bleed solenoid within the wiring to the trans? Did you elimnate that or forget to include it?

but in your picture you bought a 3 wire terminal... what did you use the EGR line for?

also I think you actually need another switch..you should keep the 4-3 I believe.

check this stuff out.

I actually have another switch that I ordered by accident it a normally closed switch. And from what I read, it can serve as an interrupter when down shifting from 4th to 3rd gear.
 

VAL

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I haven't taken apart what I did yesterday, I was thinking about taking the truck out for a spin again. This time go through all 4 gears, hit the toggle, and punch it so it down shifts to 3rd, and see if my indicator light comes on and I get lock-up.
 

HotRodPC

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Ive heard of OD not working after new switches put in. I read that you need to jack up the rear and run it upwards of 100 mph and alternate b/w accelerate and letting off gas pedal to get them to work. Crude way but I bet it works.

If not, didn't your truck use EGR bleed solenoid within the wiring to the trans? Did you elimnate that or forget to include it?

WHOA, that's new to me. I wonder if it would work? And why it would work? :shrug:

For purpose of testing, I think I'd do what 350 runner suggest, try to go 12V straight to the solenoid bypassing everything and test to see if you can get the converter to lock up. Maybe the TCC is bad. :shrug:
 

VAL

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WHOA, that's new to me. I wonder if it would work? And why it would work? :shrug:

For purpose of testing, I think I'd do what 350 runner suggest, try to go 12V straight to the solenoid bypassing everything and test to see if you can get the converter to lock up. Maybe the TCC is bad. :shrug:

Yeah, that's what I'm gonna do next(what 350 runner said). if it locks up, then i'll move the pressure switch. Hopefully the converter isn't bad. This trial and error thing is taking its toll on me. Draining the fluid, changing whatever your gonna change, button it up, refill with fluid is stating to be a real pain in the ass. I've already gone through $90 in just fluid.
 

HotRodPC

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Yep, and you're soon going to be the TCC expert. I'm really considering real hard to put a 700r4 in my C20 behind the 454. It's the only way I'm going to be back into the groove, is by playing with one and doing it. Only way to figure out how to make them better is to play with them and break them. And to deal with this wiring BS. Besides, I'd kinda like to put the 4.10 axle in the C20. I won't do that running an NON OD trans since my dad is so far away and where my truck parts are stored now days. These 3.42's seem to be pretty nice. Those 3.21's were just to damn tall though nice on the freeway doing 80 no problem without OD. Towing, even with a 454, sucked ass. Had that full grown Burb on a 1200lb trailer I did good to hold 60 on a little upgrade.
 

Boone83K10

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yeah do that or do the test procedure as you can do that without opening the trans again.
 

350runner

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Val the way I see it if going straight 12v works you get to take a break until you feel like trying that pressure switch. I'd skip the other normally closed switch cause you will be oobberlly frustrated when that don't work. In a perfect world a N/O single wire self grounding switch would be awesome. But I do believe just moving that switch over will do. Some reason I had lil to much confidence in the person who built your trans putting th hat there for a reason...
 

VAL

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Well, I bypassed the pressure switch, put direct 12V line into the solenoid, and took it for a spin, hit the toggle on 4th gear and Guess what? My lock-up is working beautifully! On the way home, I also noticed that my tranny as taking longer to to shift out of 1st and 2nd gears. Could have been low on fluid, or the damn filter dropped down again.
 

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I bet the shifting ids just related to all the new fluid you been putting in :). Well with those test results you know what to do next...
 

VAL

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Yeah, I was thinking maybe now that I got the lock-up working, after years of it not hooked up, maybe I have to readjust the TV cable. I'm gonna open it up one last time and move the pressure switch over to the 4th gear pressure port.
 

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