Top end or bottom end?

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DoubleDingo

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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
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Carb'ed Vortec 350
That's exactly the generation I'd like to have, early-mid 2000s WRX. Saw a ~05 I think? white one in Atlanta yesterday. Stock big wing and all, just slammed on coilovers and nice wheels with some small, tasteful what I would call "export" flares that looked right at home. Broke my neck trying to get a better look lol
I forgot to add, he didn't follow the oil quantity guideline either, as Subaru has it at a decimal of a quart, 4.3 or 4.7 if IRCC, so he added a full 5 quarts. I have done everything he has. The car at one point was putting out 354hp on the dyno. Impressive for a stock boxer engine with a bigger turbo. If you can find a good older one grab it, you'll have some fun.
 

Doppleganger

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1985
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K20
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5.7
@Doppleganger The new tensioner seems to have fixed it. Is that correct? Are you going to install a new timing belt as well?
Not sure what it is - thats just a video I found online of a similar situation that turned out well for someone. I have a friend who's always been into these - has all the proprietary tools to go with it. He's coming over Sunday and we're going to try to narrow down at least where the noise is coming from. Can pull the drive belts and timing cover easy enough to see if its something simple. Was told by another mechanic friend of mine to pull the plugs, crank it by hand over just past TDC and use a screwdriver to see if there's any play in the piston. This is an 05 Forester X, fwiw.

Have heard several enthusiasts talk of using Rotella. Probably go that route myself. Always used synthetic but both heads were blown, not to mention the harmonic dampener separated. Oil wasn't awful but could tell it probably had some water in it. Just weird how smooth it ran with bad HGs and then the first 2 starts was quiet and flawless.

If its something major, for time considerations I may opt for a JDM replacement and a for sale sign. If I had time and money to kill (as in, forget the truck project altogether), might split the case and start over. I was leery of these things before - unless this is a simple fix, I think I'm done with them.
 

DoubleDingo

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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
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Carb'ed Vortec 350
Not sure what it is - thats just a video I found online of a similar situation that turned out well for someone. I have a friend who's always been into these - has all the proprietary tools to go with it. He's coming over Sunday and we're going to try to narrow down at least where the noise is coming from. Can pull the drive belts and timing cover easy enough to see if its something simple. Was told by another mechanic friend of mine to pull the plugs, crank it by hand over just past TDC and use a screwdriver to see if there's any play in the piston. This is an 05 Forester X, fwiw.

Have heard several enthusiasts talk of using Rotella. Probably go that route myself. Always used synthetic but both heads were blown, not to mention the harmonic dampener separated. Oil wasn't awful but could tell it probably had some water in it. Just weird how smooth it ran with bad HGs and then the first 2 starts was quiet and flawless.

If its something major, for time considerations I may opt for a JDM replacement and a for sale sign. If I had time and money to kill (as in, forget the truck project altogether), might split the case and start over. I was leery of these things before - unless this is a simple fix, I think I'm done with them.
Gotcha. Hoping you can fix it without it needing a new engine.
 

Doppleganger

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Here's an interesting update - so my buddy comes over and we check out the valve lash. A mile off (which I see from most every shop that sets them so no surprise) but after setting it right, no change. We make the decision to get it over with and pull the motor again. Did some searching and found this is very common. A hi-lite was Subaru issued a bulletin in 2018 that "1 in 25 cars develop a knock shortly after a HG service." The best part is...."they dont know why." Bllsht - the service dept is what keeps them open, so no manufacturer is going to make a flawless product. If there was 20 posts online about an all of a sudden knock, 19 will be on the right side towards the middle, just where mine appeared.

And then, we have this gift (a knock - on the right side - that comes and goes) - WTF?:

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So everything is apart aside from splitting the case. All the case bolts are broke loose and we'll open it up tomorrow to see if we find a phantom or a smoking gun (its humid and 1000F today). The cylinders are beautiful. No ridge. Zero shavings anywhere in the block (or filter). Best case is new rings and bearings. Worse case is a JDM motor and a for sale sign.
 

Doppleganger

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Ok...interesting summary to this mess (and yes, I think I solved the 'unknown' issue of the knocking). Kind of long but something that may come of use to someone else down the road.

Years ago, there was a similar unknown issue on Volvo redblocks with a certain bolt coming loose, clipping the harmonic dampener and shearing off. I did a test where I torqued 5 bolts in the same area to 120 ft lbs. After 600 miles of driving, all were still locked tight except the one that was known to loosen you could break loose by hand with a ratchet. I believed it to be (and still do) an issue of harmonics. Loctite on that one bolt stopped the issue.

So now with this car, I sorta thought the same thing but had no smoking gun. Couldn't get rid of the knock, so decided to tear it down and separate the halves to see if there was any damage to the rods or bearings. What I found was....nothing. Bearings showed wear but in perfect condition. A friend of mine who retired from wrenching, asked if I thought I might have a broken valve spring. So while I checked out the head, I was playing with the rocker rails to check for gap and noticed the intake rail moving when I pushed on it. I watched the machinist torque these to spec. Every bolt with a red line was 3-1/2 turns out......this from idling for 10min in my driveway. All the rest are still rock solid, except for those 4 (which matches the knock area that I had and even Subaru refers to). So now I'm really suspecting harmonics.

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When I told the machinist what I found, he said a guy he knows that had the same knock issue so they pulled the cover and......the first 3 bolts were all backed out.

Since I did split my block open, at minimum the bores would need deglazed and re-ringed anyways. So in for a penny, in for a pound.....I'm this far its getting all new bearings, rotating seals, gaskets and o-rings (most of which I found was dried out and rock hard. Wasn't planned but is what it is.....and without the knock. :hat:
 

Rusty Nail

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Sounds bad.
The little experience i've had with Subarus? Always points to the.....torque convertor/flywheel thingy
Flexplate!
I'd try to fix it with a 16mm box end.

*Edit*
that's what it is, right? Through the hole used to set timing. Undo ignition and bump the key around to find them bolts.
:waytogo: 16mms I think
 
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