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The stat NEEDS an air bleed hole drilled into it along side the valve area, the stat is closing then no HOT coolant can flow across the sensor bulb so it goes into cooking mode, when enough hot coolant gets to the bulb it opens up again!
Thank you MADE IN CHINA! This is an old problem from way back with cheap stats
Just drill an eight inch hole and the temp WILL Stabalize
OLNICK
My '67 had an over heating problem. I chased coolant parts till I was about to pull my hair out. Then had the idea of going old school. I advanced the timing till it stumbled, backed off till it ran smooth and locked'er down. Never had any more problems. Can't remember what the timing ended up at though. I've gotten a lot of flack for doing that but when I first worked at a garage the guy who owned it told me he always set the timing that way since the recommended timing in the manuals were for new vehicles and engine wear over the years makes that irrelevant. I know you said your engine was new but thought I'd throw this out there. YMMV.
Wasn't there 2 different timing tabs [on the timing chain cover] depending on the year? I think there's only 1 harmonic balancer, but having the right timing tab is critical. The fact it's running hot and you're after-firing, [backfire is actually through the carb], indicates the timing is way late. Also when it gets real hot there's the possibility of detonation or ping.
If you have the valve cover off for #1, rotate the engine and intake valve should've just closed as you're coming up on the timing mark. Stop on the mark and pull the distributor cap to verify where the rotor is pointing.
If the cam timing is off that could also be an issue..
Yeah, from what I’ve read a bad t-stat is quite common.
Ok, I'm sitting in the living room "watching TV" with my wife, when I read that, then I had to explain to her what I burst out laughing. Thanks a lot lol.Jesus christ, an 8" hole? Lol