Tightening up that loose steering?

[mybabyk5]

What are some ways you guys have tightened up the very loose steering our square bodies acquire over time?

 

[89Suburban]

Can you be more specific? Steering wheel loose in the cab or just the general steering parts outside the cab?

 

[mybabyk5]

Just the steering wheel play. It handles very well besides that.

 

[89Suburban]

Most likely you need to do this. Mounting bolts in the middle of the column loosen up. I just fixed mine not too long ago.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3085&highlight=steering

 

[mybabyk5]

Damn that was a good write up bro, will be doing that today since its not too hot out haha. Let you know how it comes.
Thanks

 

[87Chevy4X4]

Damn that was a good write up bro, will be doing that today since its not too hot out haha. Let you know how it comes.
Thanks

Did that fix your issue?

I have alot of slop/play in my wheel will this fix that issue?

 

[skysurfer]

Sounds more like slop in the steering box than a loose column, google "chevy steering box adjustment". There's a lot of info there, just be aware that if you do it wrong the box will have a complete failure.

 

[1986K30]

The XJ steering shaft upgrade helps.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2932920

 

[chengny]

When everything else has been checked replace the center drag link ends (actually now when I hear compaints of loose steering this is where I look first):

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=144531#post144531

That would be items 16, 17 & 19 in the dwg below. Any wear in this assembly will result in a loose steering wheel and road wander - no matter how tight the rest of the system is. If you can move either balljoint -it's played:

You must be registered for see images attach

Another little trick that is possible with a "center drag link" setup:

If your steering wheel is offset (either CW or CCW) while travelling straight ahead - it can be easily trued up by shortening or extending the effective length of the link.
Just glide to a stop (hands off the steering wheel). Your tires will be pointing straight ahead. Leave the steering wheel unlocked and loosen the clamps on the adjusting sleeve. Then with an assistant watching the steering wheel, turn the sleeve. The wheel will turn (either in the correct direction or not) if it gets worse, turn the sleeve the other way. It only takes about a 1/4 turn to move the wheel spokes about 45 degrees. This doesn't affect your front end alignment (both tires move in unison) only the index of the steering wheel. Much easier than adjusting both tie-rod ends!

 

[TheBlueBomber]

Another little trick that is possible with a "center drag link" setup:

If your steering wheel is offset (either CW or CCW) while travelling straight ahead - it can be easily trued up by shortening or extending the effective length of the link.
Just glide to a stop (hands off the steering wheel). Your tires will be pointing straight ahead. Leave the steering wheel unlocked and loosen the clamps on the adjusting sleeve. Then with an assistant watching the steering wheel, turn the sleeve. The wheel will turn (either in the correct direction or not) if it gets worse, turn the sleeve the other way. It only takes about a 1/4 turn to move the wheel spokes about 45 degrees. This doesn't affect your front end alignment (both tires move in unison) only the index of the steering wheel. Much easier than adjusting both tie-rod ends!

Thats a neat trick. I'll have to try that one mine.

 

[89Suburban]

When everything else has been checked replace the center drag link ends (actually now when I hear compaints of loose steering this is where I look first):

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=144531#post144531

That would be items 16, 17 & 19 in the dwg below. Any wear in this assembly will result in a loose steering wheel and road wander - no matter how tight the rest of the system is. If you can move either balljoint -it's played:

You must be registered for see images attach

Another little trick that is possible with a "center drag link" setup:

If your steering wheel is offset (either CW or CCW) while travelling straight ahead - it can be easily trued up by shortening or extending the effective length of the link.
Just glide to a stop (hands off the steering wheel). Your tires will be pointing straight ahead. Leave the steering wheel unlocked and loosen the clamps on the adjusting sleeve. Then with an assistant watching the steering wheel, turn the sleeve. The wheel will turn (either in the correct direction or not) if it gets worse, turn the sleeve the other way. It only takes about a 1/4 turn to move the wheel spokes about 45 degrees. This doesn't affect your front end alignment (both tires move in unison) only the index of the steering wheel. Much easier than adjusting both tie-rod ends!

How about a write up on a backyard toe in adjustment for us poor folk, that exist? My wheel is straight but it's pulling hard right and I am sure it is not a caliper or brake hose issue. I think the l/f wheel is toe'd in due to a slightly bent lower A-arm.

 

[Mater08]

How about a write up on a backyard toe in adjustment for us poor folk, that exist? My wheel is straight but it's pulling hard right and I am sure it is not a caliper or brake hose issue. I think the l/f wheel is toe'd in due to a slightly bent lower A-arm.

The way he described of adjusting the steering wheel is for solid axle vehicles only unfortunately. And even then not all trucks with solid axles (ford, dodge) can be aligned as such. Its a lot harder to backyard align a 2wd truck because you have to straighten the steering wheel first and then align each tire individually to the steering wheel. But if you had a solid axle...its pretty easy. Step one: get an assistant. Step two: measure in the middle of tire (or pick a certain tread block) to the same spot on the other tire towards the front of the truck mid way up the tire. Remember measurement. Step three: Take same measurement at same location but on the back side of the tire. Remember measurement. Step Four: Turn adjusting tube until the forward measurement is roughly 1/8 of an inch smaller then the rear (toe in). Step five: Test drive truck and see where the steering wheel position is, from there do the same thing chengny posted to straighten the steering wheel.

 

[wczimmerman]

New here, and I plan to tell a bit more later, but I'm trying to assemble a list of parts to replace the steering on my 87 V2500 Suburban and I found this drawing (exactly what I need). Do you have the page that shows the number to name?

In brief, I am wanting to replace the upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, and anything else that may be worn at this point. However, I'm not sure what each piece in this steering setup is...

When everything else has been checked replace the center drag link ends (actually now when I hear compaints of loose steering this is where I look first):

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=144531#post144531

That would be items 16, 17 & 19 in the dwg below. Any wear in this assembly will result in a loose steering wheel and road wander - no matter how tight the rest of the system is. If you can move either balljoint -it's played:

You must be registered for see images attach

Another little trick that is possible with a "center drag link" setup:

If your steering wheel is offset (either CW or CCW) while travelling straight ahead - it can be easily trued up by shortening or extending the effective length of the link.
Just glide to a stop (hands off the steering wheel). Your tires will be pointing straight ahead. Leave the steering wheel unlocked and loosen the clamps on the adjusting sleeve. Then with an assistant watching the steering wheel, turn the sleeve. The wheel will turn (either in the correct direction or not) if it gets worse, turn the sleeve the other way. It only takes about a 1/4 turn to move the wheel spokes about 45 degrees. This doesn't affect your front end alignment (both tires move in unison) only the index of the steering wheel. Much easier than adjusting both tie-rod ends!

 

[RetroC10Sport]

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[RetroC10Sport]

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