Tightening up that loose steering?

[HotRodPC]

How about a write up on a backyard toe in adjustment for us poor folk, that exist? My wheel is straight but it's pulling hard right and I am sure it is not a caliper or brake hose issue. I think the l/f wheel is toe'd in due to a slightly bent lower A-arm.

Uhh NO NO NO Dawg !!! You're Toe In issue is probably NOT the issue of the hard pull. Replace that bent A arm. The Toe In will help a little, and also help with the tire wear since it's scrubbing the pavement. That A arm is most likely throwing your caster way off and making that wheel drag. Kinda like a Zombie walk. Take a step with one leg, and drag the other, take a step and drag the other. Believe it or not, this can also affect your mpg on the highway. I wish to hell I still those half ton bodies, I'd send an A arm. I've scraped 4 half tons in the last 2 years all with upper and lower control arms.

 

[89Suburban]

Uhh NO NO NO Dawg !!! You're Toe In issue is probably NOT the issue of the hard pull. Replace that bent A arm. The Toe In will help a little, and also help with the tire wear since it's scrubbing the pavement. That A arm is most likely throwing your caster way off and making that wheel drag. Kinda like a Zombie walk. Take a step with one leg, and drag the other, take a step and drag the other. Believe it or not, this can also affect your mpg on the highway. I wish to hell I still those half ton bodies, I'd send an A arm. I've scraped 4 half tons in the last 2 years all with upper and lower control arms.

I'd like to get a complete cradle and suspension assembly, rebuild the whole thing and bolt it in to Silvy. And get rid if the rust ridden setup on it currently. Keep dreaming 89S....time and money, it keeps getting shorter....


Posted From Hell

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd like to get a complete cradle and suspension assembly, rebuild the whole thing and bolt it in to Silvy. And get rid if the rust ridden setup on it currently. Keep dreaming 89S....time and money, it keeps getting shorter....


Posted From Hell

No reason to get the whole cradle assembly. All that's damaged is the lower control arm right? That's not big deal. Just get you a new/used one and replace the bushings and ball joints on the lower control arm and replace the upper bushings and ball joint too since you'd have it all apart on that side.

Then the next time funds come around, buy the upper and lower bushings and ball joints for the other side and there you go. Good As New.

You've already got the idler arm done. So then you'd just need inner and outer tire rod ends and a pitman arm. At that point, unless your adjusting sleeves are toast, it would be like a whole new front end. Sway bar bushings are cheap and easy too. About $20 will buy all 4 bushings.

 

[HotRodPC]

Rock Auto has smokin deals on Moog Parts, or you can do an AdvancedAuto, that they have going all the time. Like this weekend, 20% off on almost everything if you place your order online and get FREE shipping with orders over $75, or go to a store and pick up the order. Than after that order, Sept 13th, you get a coupon good until Oct 13th, $50 off of a $100 or more order. So you get one side say today for example, and then in 2 weeks to a month, get the parts for the other side. Of course I know you strapped after all the inspection BS, but just saying, buy the parts that way using a promo and you can cut about 25% off the cost. Even with the promo though, it might be cheaper at Rock Auto. Rock Auto deal might get hurt with shipping charges though.


20% off nearly everything.*
A $50 coupon valid towards a future purchase of $100 or more, when you spend $100.*
Coupons will be emailed on September 13, 2013, and will be valid through October 13, 2013.
FREE shipping on orders over $75, or choose in-store pickup, if applicable.

 

[89Suburban]

The bolts and shims on the upper control arms are rusted to ****. Now way I could ever get a full camber/caster alignment done without some major parts replacement on those areas. And remember the cradle has those rust holes? I just wouldn't mind finding a complete setup that ain't all rusted up. Like from a truck with an oil leak where all the metal is still good. There's only like 12 bolts right? And the engine mounts of course.


Posted From Hell

 

[HotRodPC]

The bolts and shims on the upper control arms are rusted to ****. Now way I could ever get a full camber/caster alignment done without some major parts replacement on those areas. And remember the cradle has those rust holes? I just wouldn't mind finding a complete setup that ain't all rusted up. Like from a truck with an oil leak where all the metal is still good. There's only like 12 bolts right? And the engine mounts of course.


Posted From Hell

Yep, shouldn't be all that hard. What sucks, it's been over a year now, but in the last 2 years I've scrapped 3 set ups like that off of half tons. An 80, an 81 and an 86. Well, take it back, I did sell 1 of the frames to a guy who was taking the spindles and brakes to convert a 69 to disk brakes. I made him take the whole thing though, but he didn't need what you need.

The other option is, I have 3/4 ton 2wd set ups. Swap that in, and a 3/4 ton 3.73 rear end with 3/4 ton rear springs. Wouldn't have worry about Saggy Ass towing the boat if you did that. But damn, you just bought new tires and you'd need 16in stock OE tires for 8 lug wheels if you did that. But, the 1/2 and 3/4 on Tie Rod Ends, Idler and Pitman arm are the same. Just the bushings, ball joints and springs are different.

 

[89Suburban]

Naw I like the 1/2 ton parts and ride.

 

[HotRodPC]

Naw I like the 1/2 ton parts and ride.

The parts are certainly cheaper. Also not as hard on those hemorroids !!!

 

[89Suburban]

The parts are certainly cheaper. Also not as hard on those hemorroids !!!

PHUCKIT :**** Eater: