think my flexplate is cracked

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crazy4offroad

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I use an old style bumper jack post as a cheater on my 1/2" ratchet.
 

RetroC10Sport

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If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, I do recommend the 24" breaker bar for $12 or less. I've tried to break mine and the damned thing won't break.
 

89Suburban

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:popcorn:

Are you sure it's the flywheel? Do they make a noise when they are cracked?
 

Swims350

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not positive it's the flywheel but yea they make a knocking noise when they are cracked, or they fall off lol.

I AM sure that it's the flywheel or something in the motor though.
 

Swims350

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finally got some progress to show...

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HotRodPC

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So what did the flywheel look like?

I notice you have the adapted Th350 trans too. I am building that same trans for my 85K1500. Wiht the adapter on the back of the case, and the special size output shaft, that Th350 fits into place exactly where the 700r4 would go. That way you can use the same crossmember in the same location, and the same driveshaft. If you ever decided to go 700r4 in that truck, it will bolt right in with no mods to anything. Just have to rehook up your lock up converter vac switch and the TV cable, otherwise, no mount changes, no dshaft mods, etc.
 

Swims350

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yea it's still on the truck. I got too hot and sick and said forget it, I'll come back later this evening and take it out.
 

HotRodPC

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Couldn't tell if it was broke or not?
 

Swims350

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nope I felt all around it the other day and felt nothing. I'm hoping it's cracked in a small spot not visible. if not then I wasted my time, have to redo it all and then yank the oil pan and tear into it.

As for my th350, love it, wouldn't have it any other way. Notice the side cover? my glue looks almost like spray foam now, it doesn't leak there anymore though. Also notice it has no kickdown cable? that's getting fixed while it's out and a new pan gasket to fix the leak it has in the PS front corner.

That t-case also needs the front input seal(trans gets low on fluid t-case gets overfilled) I heard it was easy and didn't need to tear down the case but it looks like a PITA to do.
 
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Swims350

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I'm screwed the bolts are stripped and won't come off.

first off yes I used the right socket the one that fit the best without slop in it from side to side. or I should say twisting motion no slop. I thought 9/16 but it was sloppy, so I went with 14mm and it fit nice and tight.

Had to get out my big compressor and my IR impact that has 500 ft. lbs or troque and it barely got one off. The rest are stripped and just sling the socket off with me forcing the impact on and holding pressure on it.

SO now I'll go make a new thread about removing stripped FP bolts.
 

Old77

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Ugh!!!!
 

Swims350

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well flexplate ended up being fine, starter was messed up, the sdpring in top and slipped behind the plate and held the drive gear out letting it hit the flexplate randomly, so i fixed the spring and that fixed it. No more noise. Screw the flexplate and it's stripped out bolts. if something happens to it again I'll jerk the motor out and let somebody get them out for me.
 

HotRodPC

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well flexplate ended up being fine, starter was messed up, the sdpring in top and slipped behind the plate and held the drive gear out letting it hit the flexplate randomly, so i fixed the spring and that fixed it. No more noise. Screw the flexplate and it's stripped out bolts. if something happens to it again I'll jerk the motor out and let somebody get them out for me.

Cool. Buymmer you took all that out just to check it for a bad starter.

Those bolts should not be that hard to get out. They are just rounded off a bit right??? I bet a 6 pt socket can still get them. Must be a good socket though. One that won't give at all. Or they now make those universal sockets that will grab and wedge the bolt in the center sections instead of the corners.
:grd:
 

Swims350

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nah they are rounded off more then a little bit and a good 6 point was what I used and now they are screwed lol even tried the bolt grip/turbo socket things.
 

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