TH350 Removal

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kalger

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I'm attempting to get my TH350 transmission out of my 1975 GMC C1500 with a 350 sbc. I can find two bolts that connect the transmission to the engine block. How many should I be looking for and any tips or tricks to a) find/see/feel the other ones, and b) get them out? Add to the "fun" that the area between the two has a wonderful combination of dirt, grime, and oil, it's making it a challenge to find anything. :)

I'm guessing they aren't that easily visible or accessible, so any help or suggestions would be appreciated.


Current state:
Transmission lines and cables are disconnected and out of the way.
Transmission fluid has been drained.
Drive shaft has been removed.
Transmission support cross bar has been removed.
Torque converter has been disconnected from the engine.
Transmission is on a transmission jack.
Engine is on a jack under the oil pan, but the engine mounts are still connected.
 

Ricko1966

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You will find 6 bellhousing bolts 9/16 heads 3 on each side 1 below the locating Dowell 1 above the locating dowell,and 1 more 1/2 way between the upper bolt you just found and the peak of the transmission up behind the distributor.
 

fast 99

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6 bolts, 2 or more can be accessed from top with distributor out and other items removed like cruise if equipped.

Distributor will usually hit the firewall anyway when the engine sags.
 

Ricko1966

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Everyone has their own way but I get all 6 from the bottom and support the engine so the distributor doesn't hit I do pop the cap off. To get all 6 from the bottom you will need a long extension and a 9/16ths wobbly impact socket or a long extension and an impact wobbly universal and 9/16 ths socket. I have 2 very long 1/2 inch impact extensions for doing this,not sure if it could be done with 3/8ths drive. Got pics of stuff that would do it. Notice the wobbly not you're standard unversal,a regular universal gets bound up. Actually just checked Ebay the SKs like I have are listed I have had the 36" and the 20" at least 20 years and have used the crap out of them,they are the bomb pulling transmissions,you can reach all bolts from underneath,and hit them with the impact.
 

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kalger

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Thanks everyone. I found the bolts and was able to remove them without too much difficulty once they were found. I'm very much looking forward to getting everything cleaned and degreased before putting everything back together.

Thanks again!
 

peats

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I don't know if you had the opportunity this time ,but I always degrease the work area before diving in.
 

kalger

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I don't know if you had the opportunity this time ,but I always degrease the work area before diving in.
In a perfect world, yes. Based on where the truck stopped running well, this wasn't a viable option.
 

ChuckN

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Getting ready to pull my trans out for the torque converter change.

So, 6 bolts, trans lines, disconnect/remove crossmember, remove distributor cap for clearance, support rear of engine under pan with wood block/jack. I’d imagine I’ll need to disconnect exhaust, maybe remove headers. What else am I missing? Oh, and of course, drain fluid. @kalger @Ricko1966

Thanks in advance.
 

Ricko1966

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Getting ready to pull my trans out for the torque converter change.

So, 6 bolts, trans lines, disconnect/remove crossmember, remove distributor cap for clearance, support rear of engine under pan with wood block/jack. I’d imagine I’ll need to disconnect exhaust, maybe remove headers. What else am I missing? Oh, and of course, drain fluid. @kalger @Ricko1966

Thanks in advance.
I don't even drain them,remove any exhaust that's in the way,of course undo the three torque converter bolts,people will tell you buy a flywheel turning tool,completely unnecessary,you can turn the flywheel with the converter bolts themselves. I don't drain them,because I am lazy. It is a good idea to drain them. If you don't drain it,stick a transmission yoke in the trans mission,or leave the driveshaft in the transmission and drag it out with it. Do not forget the wrap the rear u joint with tape to keep the caps from coming off. Untape it carefully on Install.
 
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ChuckN

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I don't even drain them,remove any exhaust that's in the way,of course undo the three torque converter bolts,people will tell yoi buy a flywheel turning tool,completly unnecessary,you can turn the flywheel with the converter bolts themselves. I don't drain them,because I am lazy. It is a good idea to drain them. If you don't drain it,stick a transmission yoke in the trans mission,or leave the driveshaft in the trans mission and drag it out with it. Do not forget the wrap the rear u joint with tape to keep the caps from coming off. Untape it carefully on Install.
Thank you!
 

Matt69olds

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I don't even drain them,remove any exhaust that's in the way,of course undo the three torque converter bolts,people will tell you buy a flywheel turning tool,completely unnecessary,you can turn the flywheel with the converter bolts themselves. I don't drain them,because I am lazy. It is a good idea to drain them. If you don't drain it,stick a transmission yoke in the trans mission,or leave the driveshaft in the transmission and drag it out with it. Do not forget the wrap the rear u joint with tape to keep the caps from coming off. Untape it carefully on Install.
If the trans has a drain plug, use it! If it doesn’t have a plug, now would be the ideal time to install one!!
 

Ricko1966

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Yes I am a big believer in installing transmission drain plugs when doing fluid and filter. Drain and fill your transmission pan every oil change for a year then every other oil change forever,your transmission will thank you.
 

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