supercharging your truck for cheap

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89_3&3

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Well I can say I will use a BOV to regulate the psi as for heat it is the least of the supercharger systems and you source me one cause as of so far we have sourced our parts at about 350 so far thats the bulk of the system we have planed if you can get one for less please show me
 
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Driver4r

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Not being cynical at all. You just want it to be. I was simply asking questions to fully understand your line of thinking. I know you are doing it on a budget. It just seems like you could get a supercharger cheap to use, instead of turning a turbo into one. Superchargers create heat and need a wastegate to blow off extra pressure just like a turbo.

Hey, a junk yard build to blow up a motor! :happy160:

Wheres the blow_off on an 8-71???

I had to ask lol.
 

89_3&3

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Ok so back on topic had a talk with a good friend and expert builder for some insight into what we have planned so we will be running the oil for the supercharger teed off the oil pressure gauge Sending unit off the back of block and returning it back in through the oil cap on the valve cover
We will chock put a threaded line pulled off a junk ford to keep costs down the only parts that we will buy for the oil lines will be 4 fittings
 
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89_3&3

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Wow can you guys stop trolling my thread if you have some insight into how to make it work or ideas to help please post if you want to be closed minded then don't participate
I will expect no insight into how too make anything work outside of your owners manual bahahaha what was I thinking
 
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GreaseDog

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We talked to our buddy down at the truck wrecker and he has set aside a diesel turbo to start with for 100 bucks witch we will dismantle and size for the bearings and pully we will need to make it work

Turbo with a pulley?
 

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Wow can you guys stop trolling my thread if you have some insight into how to make it work or ideas to help please post if you what to be closed minded then don't participate
I will expect no insight into how too make anything work outside of your owners manual bahahaha what was I thinking

Let's be honest here, it's a crazy idea that is unheard of my most (myself included) and there's going to be a lot of disbelievers until they see it in action. So get crackin' cause I want to see this done :happy160:
 

89_3&3

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Turbo with a pulley?

We will be dismantling the turbo exhaust end and useing the exaust ends bolt holes to mount the sending side to the bracket we are fabbing the pulley we are waiting on to size it we may use a power steering pulley ? If it fits width wise since the turbo has a bolt on the exaust end that should be the easy part
 

89_3&3

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Le t's be honest here, it's a crazy idea that is unheard of my most (myself included) and there's going to be a lot of disbelievers until they see it in action. So get crackin' cause I want to see this done :happy160:

We are its not something just thrown together we will source and pull all of our parts then mock it up and weld Up the bracket I intend to run the system on the new motor with more boost so its not an over night build
 
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89_3&3

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And the science behind it is sound its only bad craftsmanship that will cause it to fail so excuse me if we are in no rush 3 weeks or so and like I said I will be posting a step by step on this and will link a YouTube vid at the end of the stock motor before and after
 

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You do realize turbochargers spin something like 60-90,000 RPM right? You're going to need some SERIOUS gearing to drive it, a straight pulley drive off the crank won't do squat, even at 3:1 or 4:1 ratio.
 

89_3&3

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You do realize turbochargers spin something like 60-90,000 RPM right? You're going to need some SERIOUS gearing to drive it, a straight pulley drive off the crank won't do squat, even at 3:1 or 4:1 ratio.

Ya but im not trying to make the spec boost for now i hope to hit at least 2 psi with a deisel turbo but for giggles ill hook a pressure tester to it at 4500 rpm see what it puts out
 

89_3&3

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And thats got me thinking no but a deisel turbo makes 20 to 30 psi at 100 to 150k rpm so if I lets say wanted to make 6 with it id only be looking at like a 5:1
Ok so I may try and play with a timing gear to get more out of it maybe attach the pully to the timing gear and run chain to a gear on the turbo shaft thanks for the heads up but ill try it just off a small pulley for now since the ac pulley is so large I think it will due
and I dont mean the timing gear on the truck

And as long as you can push more air into the motor than its own vacuum then you can run more fuel and increase hp
 
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Green79Scottsdale

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Have you sourced a tensioner pulley for if you use a belt? What type of pulleys are you going to use? If you could fab up some thing with a belt from a serpentine system that would be a good start to keeping the belt from slipping.

Personally, I would not use a chain to drive your compressor. The destruction factor between a belt coming apart and a chain coming apart at speed is pretty significant! Your talking rubber maybe putting a dent in your hood, or shrapnel going through your hood!
 

chengny

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How do you plan to deliver the air from the compressor outlet to the intake manifold.

What ever type of ducting you decide on (and how you choose to will interface it with the carb throat) will have to be sealed tightly to prevent boost loss. This will in effect put this project in the all or nothing category.

By that I mean you won't be able to switch back and forth between a charged intake system and an NA system as power requirements vary. You will be stuck with a closed system that is dependent on the compressor for air supply and and an engine that will be driving that compressor throughout it's entire operational range.. And it goes without saying that the compressor that will constantly impart a significant reduction in shaft HP even during those periods when the engine can't use the increased oxygen supply. Imagine just cruising along in 3rd gear - with the throttle just open past it's crack point.

The mechanically coupled compressor will still be pumping out huge cfm's of charged air that have nowhere to go - except out the blow off valve. This is in contrast to a turbocharger, which is designed to idle down and float just above manifold pressure when the engine is under low loads/decreased exhaust flow rates. The cost in HP to roll a turbo over slowly while it waits to be called upon, is minimal

Brings me to another question; Where are you planning to mount the aftercooler? I have not seen mention of that component in any discussion of your plans/designs. Without an aftercooler, a large percentage of any HP gains you achieve will be negated due to higher combustion air temperatures at the intake manifold. Increased air temperatures will result in lower volumetric efficiency and it's resultant lower oxygen content.


Sorry to sound so pessimistic, because I really do wish you success, but I have my own little idea as regards getting a little bit of boost into the engine. It involves the use of my AIR pumps:

I just want to see if there is any increase in performance if I tee the discharges from two smog pumps together and then run that common pipe up to the air cleaner and terminate it inside the air filter (i.e. the downstream side of the media). They currently deliver cool air into the exhaust manifolds at each cylinder, but that can be easily re-outed.

Admittedly not a very well executed idea, considering the lack of an airtight delivery system (I imagine most of my charge air will end up just escaping by flowing backwards out through the filter media).

But like you say:

And as long as you can push more air into the motor than its own vacuum then you can run more fuel and increase hp

So, anyway, here is my dream of how thye system will work:

During periods of heavy loads/WOT when the engine is really sucking the air down and that space between the air filter and the carb throat is under the highest negative pressure it ever sees. I sense the engine is starved for oxygen and calmly reach down under the dash and flip a switch.

Immediately, power is applied to the Air Control Valves. These valves are integral with the air pumps. Each is a high flow electric air control valve and is equipped with an electric solenoid to combine electronic control with normal diverter valve function (which I have disabled).

When I switch power "On'', the solenoid of each is energized and the air control valve operates like a diverter valve. Due to the relatively high RPM of the engine, the belt driven air pumps are already pumping air out at their maximum design rate.

Where each valve was previously dumping the output from it's associated A.I.R. pump into the exhaust manifolds via a check valve, it now begins directing the total volume of air delivered by the A.I.R. pump to the common line. That volume of pressurized air is joined by the output from the other pump and that combined total of charge air is piped up to the negative pressure area between the air filter pleats and the downdraft of the carburetor.

This entire process, from when I reach down and flip the switch to the moment when that first blast of boost pressure slams into the vestibule and pushes the manifold pressure up over atmospheric takes only a split second.

At that point, I am hurled back into my seat due to the sudden incredible rate of acceleration, the scenery turns into a blur and - remarkably, even with my 4:11 gears, I feel my rear tires lose traction with the pavement. I am smokin' them up!

Oh man, I can hear the money rolling in already - I better get this idea patented - quick!
 
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