Suburban Project- Need Help!

[Salty Crusty]

I use a cheap ratchet strap, run it in a loop between frame rails, then under the transmission at the front of the pan, just to give the trans some support. 2 or 4 wheel drive, I do 'em the same. There's more weight in front of the trans crossmember than behind it, it won't balance well.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Leaving the tranny in the truck...from what I can tell the transfer case is going to support the tranny when the motor gets pulled?

Thanks again everyone!

No, support the trans. Use a ratchet strap like @Salty Crusty stated, or leave a jack under. Scissors tire jack is handy for this. I have a block of wood bolted to the top of an old jack.

Another way is to cut a piece of angle iron about 32" and slip it into the frame rails, may need a spacer.

 

[Matt69olds]

I use a couple of long 3/8 bolts thru the transmission bellhousing bolt holes resting on a pipe or 2x4 cut just long enough to sit across the frame rails.

Lay the pipe or 2x4 across the frame rails, raise the transmission as high as possible, put the bolts thru a couple holes leaving enough hanging out to rest on the pipe, lower the jack. Works perfectly.

 

[peats]

i would have the original engine rebuilt with some type of RV cam, add an intake and hedders if CA allows that. prices in PA for that entire package would be around $2,500 total. you end up with a fresh reliable engine that makes more torque than you started with.

 

[Salty Crusty]

IF you rebuild this engine, upgrade to roller lifters.
One failed cam at break-in will more than pay for it.
Stick with known brands, Speed Pro, etc., and avoid no-name ebay junk like the plague.
One other consideration might be to buy a shortblock and just add your heads, etc. to it.
I do realize that all of this is a pipe dream when you're trying to work on a shoestring budget.
Been there, done that, lost my shirt

 

[scenic760]

Ok..so I have everything disconnected and now see why a lot of people pull this tranny with the engine. I also now realize that I am not going to be able to unbolt the torque converter because the engine won't spin...is that going to pose any problems?

I guess there might be enough room to slip a long monkey wrench in between..

Also, should I bolt the head I took off back on to attach the hoist to?

Thanks again!

 

[crpntr78]

Yes, unless you get one of those brackets that bolt on the intake manifold where your carb bolts down.

 

[rt66paul]

BBC look real nice in a suburban!

They do, but in Ca a different engine is a nightmare of smog. You would be surprised at how many engines can be brought back with a basic overhaul. Cast iron ring(unless the cylinders are scored and no cross hatching), have the crank checked. A cheap valve job(at the jr college?), and just put it together. The engine should go as long as the body will last.

 

[rt66paul]

I believe you are correct sir! I have read a few threads of people doing it and at first intimidating but as I read through them it's not rocket science. It's a lot (A LOT) of little steps and tweaks.

Eventually maybe LS swap but for right now I'd like to get it running and registered. I picked up a hoist and stand today.

You bring up a good point as if I go through with putting on the MSD EFI I would think I have SOME leeway on cam/heads as the emissions standard for an '81 has to be astronomical compared to a 2003?! Does anyone know if there are any charts out there with allowable pollutants?

As someone mentioned earlier I have the luxury of time at the moment, however after going through a house remodel previously I know I'm on the clock with the wife.

Thanks again for everyone's input!

If the engine runs right and the carb is adjusted, you should pass smog(in Ca) with a vehicle that old. Keep it stock(or maybe even an RV cam - don't tell them) and you are ok. Sometimes different distributers won't pass, so check that out first.

 

[rt66paul]

Olds engines were designed to move heavy land yachts effortlessly down the highway. Keep the engine speed below 5000, they will live forever. Chances are, unless you swap in a more aggressive can, there is no need to spin the engine faster than 4500ish. The stock cam will have the engine gasping for air long before parts come apart.

If you want to beat on one and have it live a long life, there are a few things that need to be addressed.

The absolute best modification to a BBO oiling system is to machine the crank so the bearing clearance is a little on the loose side. I’m about the biggest Olds fanatic there is, but they do have their shortcomings. The biggest is the rods, while they are forged, they are soft as butter. The cranks are massive and heavy, that much weight spinning around and things tend to move around. If you don’t set them up with loose bearings clearance, they will “clearance” themselves.

The first 455 I built I used a well known Chevy shop. They machinist argued, saying he didn’t think the big clearances would benefit me, and would cause low oil pressure. The engine didn’t last long, I kept finding crap in the oil filter, the oil pressure at idle kept dropping, the oil pressure at high rpm was never that great to begin with. After one summer, I tore it back out to find copper showing on every bearing.

I used a different shop the second time. I found out the owner use to race Olds way back and was familiar with setting them up. The bearing clearance was .004-.005, combined with a high volume pump I have about 25psi hot idle, and almost 60 at speed. I shift the engine at 5600, go thru the traps at about 5800, and this is the 18 year on the short block.

For a truck, it’s really hard to beat a bbo. They don’t have a torque curve, more like a torque plane. The torque start high, hits its peak around 3600-4000, and slowly drop off again to high. Perfect for something that has to pull a heavy load.

Back a few decades, a fellow towed his Olds 442 to the drags in SLC. in a qualifying round, he had trouble with his engine. That night he pulled the engine from his tow vehicle(which happened to be an Olds engine, put in in the car, tuned it that morning and went to win top in his class. I raced a '66 442 back in the day, I am a big fan.

 

[Dave M]

No problems that can't be worked around,

1, You can pull the motor with the T/Conv' attached. (Expect a big mess of auto fluid to come out)
2, You can pull out the motor and trans together. Plug the drive shaft end or (Expect a big mess of auto fluid to come out)
Once it is out as an assembly, you can separate the trans in a more controlled manner. I would have already taken off the other head, but it's up to you. The weight needs to be evened up.

You will have to drop the rear transmission mount to allow the angle, to pull the motor and trans.
When l did my big block, l removed the front radiator support panel and left the guards in place (as I had to do a rust repair on it anyway), along with the b/bar assembly. l found it was so easy to work on. A lot of guys find it easy to remove the entire front clip.

 

[Salty Crusty]

If you want to pull it all together, I'd recommend either pulling the front clip or at least as far as removing the core support. It will make your life MUCH easier on both the pull and install. It'll make pulling it with the t-case much, much easier. Whole clip removal is easier but getting it out of the way takes a couple of people, 3 is better.

 

[Matt69olds]

Don’t try to pull the engine with the converter still attached to the flywheel. You can almost guarantee the transmission pump and converter will be damaged. I seriously doubt you could move the engine far enough forward to pull the converter straight out of the transmission, without the oil pan hitting the engine crossmember. Either pull the engine and trans together, or pull the trans first.

 

[scenic760]

Don’t try to pull the engine with the converter still attached to the flywheel. You can almost guarantee the transmission pump and converter will be damaged. I seriously doubt you could move the engine far enough forward to pull the converter straight out of the transmission, without the oil pan hitting the engine crossmember. Either pull the engine and trans together, or pull the trans first.

Even if pull them both together, I'm still left with the issue that the engine won't spin thus still needing to separate the motor with the TC on it? Or is the goal to get the engine spinning and remove then?



Thanks!

 

[peats]

i have to believe that once the engine is on a stand and the heads and pan are off a little bumping of the pistons with a wood block and light hammer will convince the pistons to release. on another engine story, in the early years of drag racing, Don garlits would tow his engine less dragster to the track, remove the hemi from his tow car, put it in his racer, win, and then put the engine back into the tow car and return home. genius