Suburban Project- Need Help!

[Salty Crusty]

You should be able to knock 3 or 4 pistons out from the bottom without moving the crank. Loosen all the rod caps slightly but leave the mains alone. Once you get a few out, you should be able to turn it enough to get to the TC bolts, start with rocking it back and forth. I use a piece of 2x2 wood on the top of the piston and smack it with a hammer when trying to get one to move. Of course, don't hit pistons at TDC or BDC since it won't help to move the crank. To make it easier, be sure to tie the trans to the shop crane so you're not trying to hit a moving target. Try to find a trans yoke that fits, you can secure it in place on the trans so you don't pour trans fluid all over the place.

 

[scenic760]

Got it..so pull them together, unstick the engine and then separate... can I just put in a few of the bell housing bolts to yank it? As you guys probably know some were just down right nasty to get out!

Also, do I just set the whole assembly on a pallet or something to separate?

Thank again!

 

[Salty Crusty]

I'd put the top and bottom bellhousing bolts in on both sides and snug 'em up a bit, that will distribute the load. Leave it on the cherry picker, you won't be able to wrestle it around much if it's on a pallet. Tie that transmission to the cherry picker to stabilize it, otherwise you'll be chasing it around in a circle all day.
Ask me how I know

 

[scenic760]

I'd put the top and bottom bellhousing bolts in on both sides and snug 'em up a bit, that will distribute the load. Leave it on the cherry picker, you won't be able to wrestle it around much if it's on a pallet. Tie that transmission to the cherry picker to stabilize it, otherwise you'll be chasing it around in a circle all day.
Ask me how I know

Haha...I can see it now, kind of like a 5 year old chasing a pinata?!

Once I get it free (optimistic) and when I go to pull the transmission off, should I just set the transmission on a pallet at that point, keep the engine attached to the hoist, remove TC and separate them?

 

[Salty Crusty]

Once it turns over enough for you to get to all the torque converter bolts, rest the trans on a pallet, enough to take the weight off. Once that last bolt is out, take the bellhousing bolts out and you're good to go. You can be sure you have all the TC bolts when you can move it further into the transmission and away from the flexplate or spin it easily.

 

[scenic760]

Once it turns over enough for you to get to all the torque converter bolts, rest the trans on a pallet, enough to take the weight off. Once that last bolt is out, take the bellhousing bolts out and you're good to go. You can be sure you have all the TC bolts when you can move it further into the transmission and away from the flexplate or spin it easily.

Will do, MUCH APPRECIATED!

 

[scenic760]

So now that I am pulling the engine/trans together is there anything tricky about separating the transfer case from the transmission?

 

[Salty Crusty]

Shouldn't be, just bolts. Go ahead and drop the trans pan and drain it, then put it back on but not real tight. You're going to want to put a new filter in and add fresh fluid anyway, right? This will help a little bit with fluid loss but you're still going to spill some. I don't know of a plug for the seal on a 4WD. If you're outside, put something down so you don't drag it through the dirt.
I'd hope you're somewhere at least out of the weather and with a concrete floor but I've done 'em in some terrible spots.

 

[scenic760]

Shouldn't be, just bolts. Go ahead and drop the trans pan and drain it, then put it back on but not real tight. You're going to want to put a new filter in and add fresh fluid anyway, right? This will help a little bit with fluid loss but you're still going to spill some. I don't know of a plug for the seal on a 4WD. If you're outside, put something down so you don't drag it through the dirt.
I'd hope you're somewhere at least out of the weather and with a concrete floor but I've done 'em in some terrible spots.

Gotcha...yes on the fluid and filter...funny this is that the tranny fluid looks perfect, bright red. I wonder if someone rebuilt the tranny recently before they parked it.

 

[Matt69olds]

Assuming both heads are off, take a chunk of hard wood and a hammer and smack the piston at the top and bottom of the bore, 90 degrees to the wrist pin. The idea is to hopefully get the piston to rock in its bore. If each piston is free enough to rock in its bore, and the crank still won’t turn, the. There is most likely s crank or timing chain issue keeping it from turning.

 

[scenic760]

Once the engine and tranny are out I plan on spraying the engine bay with purple power and hitting it with a pressure washer. I will probably rig up some type of capture system underneath to catch all the crud and let the water evaporate.

Is there anything I need to watch out for when I pressure wash it? I figure it's gonna be sitting for a while to dry out while I rebuild this thing...or wait to get something shipped to me!

 

[scenic760]

I was actually able to get the TC bolt out! My neighbor has this cool zero offset, box end ratchet wrench with a long handle..almost like it was made for the job! I strapped the transmission under the pan with a ratchet strap going up and over the frame.

I'll pull this sucker tomorrow and see what is happening!

Thanks again for all the advice everyone!

 

[scenic760]

It's out!

So here is what have...the driver side bank looks a bit worse and I think it's the #7 cylinder that is the culprit from keeping it spinning. It looks like the top of the pistons are marked 030 which I'm assuming is a .030 overbore so it's been rebuilt at one point. There is carbon built up on #3 which is where the rocker was off so that would make sense?

So does it make sense at this point to put anymore effort into this engine? I'm not afraid to spend the $$ but the other side to this is that I NEED a running Suburban.

Phase II on this is that I plan on getting the square up and running and then yanking the LS and all the components out of my 2003, junk the rest, and putting it in the garage for a rebuild and swap..given all that I don't wanna go too crazy with the 1st phase.

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[Salty Crusty]

I had a similar situation a few years back. Machine shop ran a hone through all the bores and honed the bad one to .040 over, ordered one piston, new rings, etc. and I put it back together. As long as the replacement piston is close in weight to the others, you'll never know.
But you do have a block at .030, most builders won't go past .060 on small blocks. You could have the machine shop hone 'em all to .040 so you'll be starting with what amounts to a fresh overhaul. Bores can't be honed that amount, the cutter pushes off of the cylinder walls and you end up with a tapered bore. Modern CNC hones can do just about anything, this is a piece of cake for them.

Other option is to source a running engine locally for minimum investment and you won't have all the tear-down, etc. ahead of you. Later model TBI engines have provisions for roller lifters and many can take a block mounted fuel pump. If you get lucky enough, you'll end up with a 4-bolt block that you can build to whatever power level you like and it'll still only be at .040 over.

Call the machine shop, tell them what you have and your goals and see what they recommend. I have a good one locally that I trust after receiving sound advice from them for years. Ask them to lay out your options and cost for each, then go through the most fun part of our hobby - making that decision.

 

[scenic760]

I had a similar situation a few years back. Machine shop ran a hone through all the bores and honed the bad one to .040 over, ordered one piston, new rings, etc. and I put it back together. As long as the replacement piston is close in weight to the others, you'll never know.
But you do have a block at .030, most builders won't go past .060 on small blocks. You could have the machine shop hone 'em all to .040 so you'll be starting with what amounts to a fresh overhaul. Bores can't be honed that amount, the cutter pushes off of the cylinder walls and you end up with a tapered bore. Modern CNC hones can do just about anything, this is a piece of cake for them.

Other option is to source a running engine locally for minimum investment and you won't have all the tear-down, etc. ahead of you. Later model TBI engines have provisions for roller lifters and many can take a block mounted fuel pump. If you get lucky enough, you'll end up with a 4-bolt block that you can build to whatever power level you like and it'll still only be at .040 over.

Call the machine shop, tell them what you have and your goals and see what they recommend. I have a good one locally that I trust after receiving sound advice from them for years. Ask them to lay out your options and cost for each, then go through the most fun part of our hobby - making that decision.

Thanks again Salty!

I have looked high and low for a running 350 and I'm telling ya, in SoCal they are few and far between...and if I do find them it's already been pulled and they want $1,500 for it. The "cash for clunkers" program was HUGE in California because they were having a hard time passing smog which took quite a few 70's/80's cars out of circulation.

I like your idea of having them just do the one cylinder to .040 and ordering one piston. I called a shop last week to ask him about redoing the heads or if they had some I could swap out and he said that really isn't done anymore. He asked me "Now what kind of car is this again?" When I told him a 1981 Suburban he said it was just like throwing money away...that is the attitude out here for the most part.

So now do I just start smacking on the pistons/rods with a block of oak and a 3lb sledge? Anything I need to watch out for?

THANKS!