Stuck Block (SBC 350 '83)

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highdesertrange

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looks like pot metal. highdesertranger
 

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looks like pot metal. highdesertranger

I concurr. But it looks just like the one poctured in the summit catalog.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66782
 

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Yep, that's it Proform adapter, and yeah looks like cheap pot metal. They ordered me a replacement, dunno how much use it will be.

Anyone else used it?

How about if I get some longer, high grade, bolts for the flywheel and hook a pry bar into it?
 

highdesertrange

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get a flywheel turner. or make that piece that broke out of real metal. you have a pattern. did the engine move at all? highdesertranger
 

Burban

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You mean one of those things that grip the edge of the flywheel?

Engine did not move atall.
 

Burban

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Is that going to enable me to use enough torque to free it? It's held by friction?

The engine was running when I put it in the shed, and I was starting it regularly.

The last time it turned over, some mice had made a nest in the carb, and it didn't start, and I removed the air cleaner, vac'd out the carb, and then it sat for the last ten years.
 

highdesertrange

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you might be able to get one on loan from the parts store. they give you a fair amount of torque because you are so far from the center line of the crank. to reverse direction you must relax the bite of the tool and reposition it by flipping it around. if it ran before you stored it you should be able to break it free. highdesertranger
 

Burban

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You think if I weld a 1" socket to the plate, that would make it stronger?

The store is getting me a replacement plate, and I was thinking of using a 6 point 1" socket to turn it, rather than use the 1/2" drive hole, but I'm wondering if I should ask the local blacksmith (yeah we have one in town) to just weld it in place.

Maybe I should also ask for the loan of a flywheel turner.
 

highdesertrange

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if it's pot metal you can't weld it. you could make one, and yes using a socket would be stronger. just take the broken one trace it over to a piece of at least 1/4" and weld a big ole nut to it. highdesertranger
 

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Well it's been soaking in diesel for a week. I topped it off once, didn't take much.

I have a new plate, and a 6 point 1" deep socket that fits the new plate.

I'm thinking I maybe should soak it a little longer though?
 

Burban

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Nah, I think I'll top up the intake manifold, as that'll be where it's draining into the cylinders, and I'd guess wherever there is an open intake valve is probably where the corrosion is?

See when the weather lets me get to it, I'll bolt on the plate, pull the plugs, see if I can move it counter clockwise a little. If I can't get it to move, guess I'll have to pull the engine, that'll give me a winter project.

I don't have a hoist or a stand, would it be easier to drop the engine into some kind of cradle, and jack the body up, or remove just the front panel?
 

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Still stuck, haven't really yanked it, but I tried to move the breaker bar left and right, and it didn't budge, except for the flex in the metal, the socket stayed put.

Had pulled out the plugs, and put the new plate on, so there should be nothing holding it.

Ooh, got it to move. What now?
 
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