Starts then stalls. Stumped.

[OldBlueDually]

@Squirrely Brother have you had any luck?

 

[Squirrely Brother]

@OldBlueDually, Thanks for the checking up on how things are going. I’ve had no luck. Same situation. I ordered a pressure gauge from Summit. I’m going to see if the pressure fluctuates or if it’s some sort of venting issue. Usually, I’d be all over it until I had a resolve, but work has been a bit chaotic with several 16+ hour days in the past week where I have no time. I’m grateful I have another vehicle.

Hope you’re having a great weekend. Take care.

 

[OldBlueDually]

Bummer man. Those get to be long days...way too long, been there before!

 

[Rusty Nail]

Brake booster one way check valve requires correct operation and installation before we can continue...I require pix of said one way check valve. Blows through only one way and sucks only from the other side. You can do it!

150 miles since timing chain...AND THEN there is THIS!

It ran for about 1 minutes fine until bluetooth from my phone connected to the stereo and shut it down instantly.

Full stop.
W.T.F?

Is that duplicable?

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[Squirrely Brother]

@RustyNail I was kind of lost by your post. If there’s a electrical draw where such as the stereo turning on the engine sputters and stalls. Yes, after removing the battery and placing on a trickle charger the same results. The brake booster valve only goes in one direction, so not sure what you’re asking. I don’t know wtf is wrong with it. Fuel or fire, one of them. The timing chain was replaced in July and I don’t drive the truck very often. I was there for the tail end of the install, but assume it was right being my daughter’s bf installed it and he is a gm master technician and always proud to tell anyone who’ll listen. Anyhow, parts should be here from Summit today or tomorrow and I’ll try them out.

 

[peats]

did you recently fuel up? although not often bad fuel happens. you can change parts till the cows come home and if it is the fuel,???

 

[Squirrely Brother]

@peats, I did. I filled up both tanks, but drove somewhere around 20 miles after filling up without any issues. I did call the QT I filled up at to see if there were any reports of bad gas. I was told no, but also took the phone number for their gas guarantee department. I’m going to verify constant pressure with the gauge when it arrives tomorrow then maybe drain one of the tanks to see if it is possibly bad gas. Thank you for your suggestion.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Obviously your truck must be haunted and I thought the Police(band) had a song by that name - Ghost in the Machine - turns out it's an album title. Also a movie. Spirits in the Material World IS the song I was thinking about though..and since playing music kills your truck - it seems completely appropiate to post it, here.

My other thought...involved suspecting a compromised brake booster diaphragm - hence the VERY PRELIMINARY check to verifly function of the one-way check valve.
You even spoke of the brake pedal feel which was helping to cement the idea suspecting the booster.

I keep looking for a vacuum leak, because last night I thought the brake pedal felt different, but I disconnected the check valve on the brake booster and there was vacuum.

I can only use the information you provide and while a bad booster causing YOUR issue may be uncommon, it is certainly not unheard of. At least not by the likes of a guy like me - a guy that done forgot more about fixin cars than you will likely ever know.
Sir.

To be clear I am asking:
Did you verify correct operation of your check valve or were you merely intent of confirming my knowledge of its' function?
Sir?


I certainly can't stop you from throwin parts at your truck..lots of people like to do stuff like that , it won't repair the brakes- I was only interested in fixing it.


Sir.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

While you are providing pics of your installed CHECK VALVE- let's see some video of you talking like a squirrel too huh?
Here is HOW.
Hope this helps!

Good luck.

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What a dick!
Right?

(that's what she said)

P.S.they call it "trolling" now I read somewhere.


See , looking past the ghost playing with your radio while spending money on parts rather than taking the time to blow through the check valve is like trying to silence an SES light without pulling codes - but...WHATEVER!

knock yourself out noob

Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

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[Squirrely Brother]

@RustyNail, I didn’t understand what you meant with the brake booster comment. When I pulled out the valve it released a bunch of vacuum. When I plugged it back in and started the truck the pedal didn’t feel as firm. I’ll try plugging the booster vacuum line to see if the booster is the culprit causing a leak. It ran fine, without any hiccups for almost 4 years, until updating some parts when changing a cracked flex plate. It does seem like there’s a ghost in the machine. Haven’t been stumped like this since a problem with pressed in rocker arm studs backing out on a 69 Bronco I had back in the early 90’s. All suggestions are appreciated. And, as far as trolling I’m either too old to notice or maybe care. No offense, but I just figured you had thrown a few back before your reply. Take care.

 

[OldBlueDually]

@Squirrely Brother I think you need a dude like this to work on it for you with Odie the dog (start it at 1:04). It may not be the ticket, but this may make you chuckle a bit! (Wolfman Jack is the voice of the leader).

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[Vbb199]

This whole thread took a weird turn.

 

[Squirrely Brother]

@OldBlueDually, I sure wish I had a magic hammer like Odie’s.

Decided I’m going to cap off every vacuum port before cutting cutting into the fuel lines. Also, I plead ignorance since I haven’t had a carbureted vehicle since 1992, but if a float in the Edelbrock was stuck would the engine starve out mimicking what seems like a massive vacuum leak?

 

[RecklessWOT]

If your battery is completely effed it will not run. On a full charge you may be able to start it and have it run for a while, but if the alternator can't keep up it will die. May even backfire and stutter which will make you think it's something else, but a very bad battery can do that

 

[Squirrely Brother]

@RecklessWOT, I put a multimeter on the battery with it running and alternator seemed to be charging right, but at 20-30 seconds of running that doesn’t really mean much. I should take the battery out and have it tested. Usually would’ve worked all hours to find a resolve already, but work has gotten in the way in the last week. Tomorrow’s agenda is the truck. Thank you, for your suggestion.

 

[Raider L]

Squirrely Brother,

You are on the right track with the float stuck. or rather the float adjustment screw, I can't recall what it's called, it's on top of the float bowl, it's what you turn to adjust the floats. I'll bet if you take the inspection screw off the side of the bowl, no fuel will come out. How these things get out of adjustment I'll never know but they do, and in both directions to. The float would have to be all the way down hardly allowing any fuel in at all for it to die though. If it's not the float it's something else in that area.

Like the other guys have been saying, it's definitely a fuel related problem but I doubt it's the pump, but it could be there's a tear in the pump diaphragm not allowing the pump to pump and the fuel is just cavitating inside the pump. But you said it did pump clear. So if fuel came out seemingly at a steady rate then the pump is probably okay.

Carb related for sure. It will probably be something we didn't think about.