Starting my axle swap 1989 burb to 1986 k10

[VAL]

Anybody know if there's a special too needed to remove the E-brake cables?

 

[HotRodPC]

Anybody know if there's a special too needed to remove the E-brake cables?

I do not think there is a special tool for the e Brake cables. It's just a bitch to get all the fingers to close. Maybe use a small hose clamps away at the middle section of the retained to collapse the fingers, get the fingers started thru the hole, then take the clamp off.

As far as lube, cuz Gov Lok does not use clutches, I don't see the need for an additive. But, IIRC, it does use thinner gear oil, like GL4 85-90, GL5 or Synthetic would be even better.

 

[HotRodPC]

OK, so I like just a little bit. Here is GM Service Bulletin for G80 Gov Lok trucks.

LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT (SERVICE INFORMATION) #91-4-109
SUBJECT: LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL (G80) LUBRICANT - (SERVICE INFORMATION)
VEHICLES AFFECTED: ALL LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH G80 REAR AXLE ALL YEARS
Some light duty trucks equipped with locking rear axles (G80) may exhibit rear axle chatter, especially when turning a corner from a stop.
This condition of alternate engagement and disengagement of clutches in differential assembly is usually caused by contaminated axle lubricant.
To correct this condition, drain and refill the rear axle with SAE 80W-90 GL5 (P/N 10950849).



The use of any additive in locking rear axles (G80) is not recommended. Rear axle additives are designed for use in limited slip differentials which are normally installed in cars. All light duty trucks equipped with RPO G80 make use of a locking differential and the use of additives will delay the engagement of the locking mechanism and may decrease axle life.

So being it's NOT Limited Slip, DO NOT USE AN ADDITIVE as I said. BUT, it does apparenlty use clutches. I didn't know that. I thought it was just a locking cam and governor wheel that locked it. At any rate, use the GL5 80/85-90 SAE oil instead of the GL4 I suggested above. I knew it was thinner than an open diff.

 

[Driver4r]

1.Yeah, I'm gonna clear coat them too. Thats a good Idea about the black cover and the chrome bolts, I'm gonna look online for one. Thanks Driver!

2.My girlfriend just gave me a divorce this afternoon.

1. Your welcome, thats like what im goign to do with my monte, but my axles are going to be black with a alumium cover with hex bolts.

2. Seriously? Or are you joking?

 

[VAL]

Yup, seriously, not joking. It's Monday night and she's still gone. Oh well, after I finish with the axle swap, I'll go take here to the mall, buy her some stuff, and all will be well(I hope). If not, she's got a sister that's better looking anyways, and she loves lifted 4x4's.
On to what's important. I finally got the rear axle cleaned up, painted and installed. Everything bolted right up except for the e-brake cable that someone put a pair of dikes to, and cut that little weight like thing on the end of it, guess I'm gonna have to use the old one, no biggie. Them little clamps with the 3 fingers really peed me off today. Well anyways, here's some picks of the rear.

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[VAL]

OOh, Almost forgot, anybody know if with the new 3.73 gear ratio that is now different from the old 3.08's, will I have to adjust the detent cable to accommodate the shift points? Or anything else that might need changing?

 

[Driver4r]

Your speedometer gear will need changed

 

[VAL]

I got these two different tie rods, was wondering which is better.

This one came with the axle off the 89 Burb, it has the adjuster on one side for both ends.

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This one is on my 86 axle, no adjuster, it has threaded ends on each side.

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[Driver4r]

Yours looks cleaner.

 

[HotRodPC]

OOh, Almost forgot, anybody know if with the new 3.73 gear ratio that is now different from the old 3.08's, will I have to adjust the detent cable to accommodate the shift points? Or anything else that might need changing?

Only reason you might change the detent cable adjustment if is you want to change your shift points a bit. And you just might want too. I'd say take it for a drive and if it's not shifting to late, I'd leave it alone. The Vac modulator is part of the shift point decision making too, so it should be ok. If anything, you'd want to lengthen the cable, but I'd try it first wo any adjustment. You just might like it.

 

[HotRodPC]

I got these two different tie rods, was wondering which is better.

This one came with the axle off the 89 Burb, it has the adjuster on one side for both ends.

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This one is on my 86 axle, no adjuster, it has threaded ends on each side.

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I'd like the one with adjustment on both ends. This works much better when adjusting your Toe in or out and keeping your steering wheel spokes straight. Where as on the single sided adjustment, they can set your Toe adjustment but then the steering wheel spokes may be off and get them straight you then have to pull the steering wheel off it's current spline and realign the spokes that way.

 

[VAL]

I'd like the one with adjustment on both ends. This works much better when adjusting your Toe in or out and keeping your steering wheel spokes straight. Where as on the single sided adjustment, they can set your Toe adjustment but then the steering wheel spokes may be off and get them straight you then have to pull the steering wheel off it's current spline and realign the spokes that way.

That's exactly what I was thinkin', Thanks Hotrod for confirming that. I was also thinking about when your tie rod ends go bad on the single sided one, you have to replace a 3ft. driver side tie rod end. I wonder what was the reasoning behind that design. More expensive tie rod?

 

[VAL]

Front axle is ready.

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[Driver4r]

Front axle is ready.

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LOL HR he went single adjustment.......

And HR, this is a 700r4, No Vac Modulator.

 

[VAL]

No I didn't, I just put the single-sided one on to keep the tires in line, for when I rolled it out of the garage. The one I'm gonna use is getting sanded and painted. Maybe I shoulda said "almost ready". My bad.
Question for you guys, are backing plates side specific?