Starter shims?

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82sbshortbed

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Put all the shims on the starter and it still grinding a bit. Should I put more on or what? It didn't have any when I pulled it and had it rebuilt. So I'm at a loss here. Here's a video of me starting it and noise it makes.

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fast 99

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When starters make that kind of noise usually both the ring gear and starter need to be replaced at the same time. Teeth have been damaged. You might get lucky with shims, but I doubt it. I have never seen an original starter with shims.

What happened to the old starter, bushings, loose, drive worn out?
 

82sbshortbed

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It had a new armature and bushings replaced. Teeth on flywheel are not damaged either.
 

Rusty Nail

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Turns out both of those answers are "incorrect and considered bad grammar.
How do ya like  them apples?
 

82sbshortbed

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Me either.
Eiher or neither?

Why did you add shims if none were present?
Because it was making that noise and it didn't before. All he did was replace armature, brushes and bushings Because he showed me how bad the old parts were. So I thought it should bolt right up. Then it made that sound.

I have gotten 2 prior from the auto parts houses and neither were close. So I had the old one rebuilt. So yeah I'm like wtf?
 

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Sounds to me like you need to disconnect the starter motor from the battery, take off the inspection cover, and short the solenoid to +12. You'll get an up close look at how the solenoid engages the flywheel.
Just my 2 cents, FWIW.
 

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When starters make that kind of noise usually both the ring gear and starter need to be replaced at the same time. Teeth have been damaged. You might get lucky with shims, but I doubt it. I have never seen an original starter with shims.

What happened to the old starter, bushings, loose, drive worn out?
I have seen a bunch of shims back in late 60 early 70s
 

rusted nuts

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Put all the shims on the starter and it still grinding a bit. Should I put more on or what? It didn't have any when I pulled it and had it rebuilt. So I'm at a loss here. Here's a video of me starting it and noise it makes.

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I wouldn't put ANY on if it didn't have any, You are going to screw up starter drive AND flywheel I would take starter back to rebuilder
 

Snoots

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Forget about Steps 1 & 2.
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Rusty Nail

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Instead of blaming the rebuilder who has likely rebuilt many SBC starters, I am led to question the condition of the cabling and grounds.
Snoots has a good idea to watch it work (careful! - they jump) you may find that it works fine when bench tested and connected to a direct power source.

Certainly it is common to see starter/ charging system issues arise during periods of extreme heat like you have in Texas, BUT it also will display weak links in wiring. My vote is on low voltage to the starter which is easily tested with a multimeter and a helper OR a remote starter switch.
Yep. I bet you are losing voltage through the battery cable - starter shims aren't necessary. The solenoid is struggling through the heat - like the rest of us.

Heat soak is real.
 
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82sbshortbed

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This makes some sense because he bench tested it right in front of me and it function right. I thought the clearance was too tight and it wasn't letting the starter draw the gear back properly. But what do I know.?

I do know fixing the $hitty wires to the starter on the 82 fixed it. So might have to do the same thing on the 84. Or give it to my mechanic and let him fix it. I get 20% labor discount. Lol
 

rusted nuts

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I killed those brain cells a long time ago.
I seem to remember odd ball stuff like lossing my 1/4 inch drive 3/8 scoket inside the iner panel of a 79 sb ft fender.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Instead of blaming the rebuilder who has likely rebuilt many SBC starters, I am led to question the condition of the cabling and grounds.
Snoots has a good idea to watch it work (careful! - they jump) you may find that it works fine when bench tested and connected to a direct power source.

Certainly it is common to see starter/ charging system issues arise during periods of extreme heat like you have in Texas, BUT it also will display weak links in wiring. My vote is on low voltage to the starter which is easily tested with a multimeter and a helper OR a remote starter switch.
Yep. I bet you are losing voltage through the battery cable - started shims aren't necessary. The solenoid is struggling through the heat - like the rest of us.

Heat soak is real.
Yes that's why GM came up with the tin heat shield for the solenoid, that gets tossed the first time the starter is down(because it gets in the way of hooking up the wires). And if you have headers that's more heat down near the starter.
And engine compartments don't have as much room for airflow as they used to; I noticed that there is noticeably less room under the hood of the slantnose 81-87 front end than the round eye 73-80s. Even with small blocks....
 

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