Starter shim questions

[Charlie K]

New here guys be gentle. I've worked on cars and trucks for myself to a point but this project for me is out of my comfort zone and I need to learn a lot as I go but I'm motivated but not rich so it's gonna take some time.

Anyway the old owner said starter flywheel issue. Yup got that. Grinding noisey etc, with fails to turn over. I removed the starter (no shims were present) gear looks ok, flywheel look ok. Fixed the horrible electrical connections with a almost bare hot wire with melted insulation and made the electrical pretty again. Truck starts but is still loud and I know its not right. I've searched and found that I need 1/8" between the starter motor shaft and the flywheel. From the pics you can see it's way more than that. Is this shimmable or is there a bigger problem here?

My plan is to shim one side to close that gap but it's gonna be a healthy shim job. Is this the right way?

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[PrairieDrifter]

The flexplate/flywheel teeth aren't looking so hot. Shimming one side is not the way to do it. None of my trucks have shims, have used a few different starters as well.

 

[QBuff02]

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-829105.pdf

Here's some installation info for reference. even though This isn't exactly for a stock type starter but all the dimensions and installation instructions are pretty much the same, and the clearances you need to check for proper shimming and placement.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Your not going to hurt it by trying a shim, and there are shims made just for these starters. Without having a better look at the teeth on the flywheel it's kind of hard to tell by the picture, but I tend to agree it looks like it my have damage. If the teeth on the flywheel and / or starter are damaged it'll never sound right. It would be great if you could post pictures of the flywheel gear teeth and the starter as well.

 

[Charlie K]

I did shim it and it now starts very quiet and instantly actually if fires very quick and I have to be mindful of how long to hold the key on it’s that fast. Thanks for the replies so quick everyone. On to my brake problems. Either air in the lines or booster failed not sure yet. Any tricks for cracking those bleeders open that are all nasty. Been spraying them with PB for two days already. Can I upload a short video from my phone?


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[crpntr78]

Heat will be your friend. Put a small butane or propane torch on the spot where the bleeders screw into.

 

[Buickspec6231]

I did shim it and it now starts very quiet and instantly actually if fires very quick and I have to be mindful of how long to hold the key on it’s that fast. Thanks for the replies so quick everyone. On to my brake problems. Either air in the lines or booster failed not sure yet. Any tricks for cracking those bleeders open that are all nasty. Been spraying them with PB for two days already. Can I upload a short video from my phone?


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Heat and use a good quality 6 point socket or a box end wrench. Don't try to do it with the open end of a wrench. If they are rusty, sometimes using a metric socket on a SAE bleeder or vice versa will get you a better tighter fit. Wire-brush the threads off too. this will give the PB blaster a better chance of getting down where you actually need it.

 

[Raider L]

@Charlie K,

@Buickspec6231 is heading you in the right direction. Those little fittings can be hard to loosen. And yes, use a 6 point or even a 12 point box end, and long wrench if you have it, if not get a long handle wrench. You will need some leverage to get it loose. I wouldn't so much recommend heat. Maybe some people may had to use heat on a bleeder that they tried everything else and still couldn't get it to loosen. A good long handled box end wrench is good enough. Even a deep socket will get some loose. But that's just it, you only need to get it loose, maybe a quarter turn to a half a turn will be enough.

But one of the best tools you can have is a "Mighty Vac"! It's a little hand pumped vacuum pump so you can sit right there at the brake and bleed it yourself without any help from anyone "pumping the brakes". This is 2021, not 1971. There have been tools made for a long time to make these jobs easier and better. The "Mighty Vac" requires a little practice and familiarization with all the little rubber fittings that are in the box with the pump. READ the instructions! so you will understand what to look for if the rubber cups are not on tight, and how to fit the little rubber cup things onto the bleeders so they are on there right. Then you'll be able to bleed all four corners in about 30 to 45 minutes.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Cant upload video to this website , noSir. Best uploaded to youtube and linked in the post.

 

[Charlie K]

Thanks for all the input. Surprising all the bleeders came loose without incident and all brakes bled easily. I installed the new brake booster and brakes work as they should. Back to my wiring gremlins.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Pictures upload fine..just cuz u cant upload video direct doesnt mean you get out of posting pix.l or it didn't happen.

Hell i'm not even convinced you even got a square truck...wtf u mean no bleeder problems?

I'm calling bull.
Pix or it didnt happen junior.