Slow and labored power windows

[FireTruck1984]

I’ve installed New power door regulators and motors, the window glass moves very slow and binds, hard to raise glass to top. I’ve adjusted the tracks and glass runs ( felt channel ). Help ! Any suggestions?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Check your grounds, check your battery resting voltage, and check your alternator output at the alternator and at the battery if this issue is happening with the vehicle running. If you’re missing a ground or one’s making poor contact, this can happen. You can also lubricate the run channels with silicone spray or dry lube.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Thanks, I’ll try your suggestions. I bought inexpensive replacement regulators, someone else said to get genuine Delco motors. Any experience with them?

 

[gmachinz]

Have you checked to see if the door shell is flexing a lot as the regulator is being used? You need the door panel off obviously to tell but this could indicate some weak areas in the door shell metal.

 

[Doppleganger]

Adding relays will do wonders. Very simple and inexpensive upgrade. Will save your switches and motors both in the long run.

 

[Matt69olds]

Agree with the relay modification. It makes a world of difference.

 

[colonel mustard]

does anyone have a DIY wiring diagram for this?

 

[1979k10]

does anyone have a DIY wiring diagram for this?

Not sure where I took this from, so I can't give credit to the original author.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[legopnuematic]

One thing to check is if you might have thick glass in thin glass weather stripping. I'm not sure when the change over to thin glass was (early 80's I think). With them mismatched it will cause binding. with these trucks being as old as they are its not out of the realm of possibilities that the glass was swapped or replaced.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

[colonel mustard]

Not sure where I took this from, so I can't give credit to the original author.

You must be registered for see images attach

im not sure that's accurate....why would all 4 relays be tied in together. one pair should be in the driver door and the other in the passenger right?

edit: unless that is showing you the driverside window switch

 

[dvdswan]

im not sure that's accurate....why would all 4 relays be tied in together. one pair should be in the driver door and the other in the passenger right?

edit: unless that is showing you the driverside window switch

I think you are just seeing the grounds and switched/battery power. They don't care at "idle/no used" but the 2 left relays are for up/down driver side and the 2 right relays are for up/down passenger side. I just curious as to why the diodes were drawn on the picture. I see that its for the pass. side switch, just no sure as to why one wouldn't put them on the pass. switch side as well when operating the pass. window with the driver switch. confused.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Thanks, I’ll try the relay upgrade. I’ve read also that a new wire harness that draws power directly from the battery gives the motors much more power and speed.. has anyone done this? LMC truck sells a kit.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Have you checked to see if the door shell is flexing a lot as the regulator is being used? You need the door panel off obviously to tell but this could indicate some weak areas in the door shell metal.

Thanks, The door shells are in perfect condition, that should not be the issue. I believe it’s under powered motors or weak current

 

[dvdswan]

You should really go to a "switched power" source rather than the battery. It will lead to power drains on the battery.

 

[FireTruck1984]

Check your grounds, check your battery resting voltage, and check your alternator output at the alternator and at the battery if this issue is happening with the vehicle running. If you’re missing a ground or one’s making poor contact, this can happen. You can also lubricate the run channels with silicone spray or dry lube.

Thanks, I’ll check all my connections, and try the silicone spray