Sheared steering arm studs

[Isaac nickerson]

Hey everyone, this weekend 2 of 3 of the studs on my steering knuckle sheared off in my steering arm. So now I gotta get them out. My truck is on my street and I dont have a lot of tools so I need to take it to my friends shop. Is it possible to take the whole rotor/hub/knuckle assembly out as one or do I have to disassemble the hub to get the the knuckle off? Also do you guys recomend trying an easy out or welding first?

 

[nvrenuf]

I don't think you can remove the rotor and knuckle as an assembly, seems like one of the ball joint retaining nuts is in the knuckle opening. The studs will most likely turn out fairly easily since they just broke vs being cross threaded.

Are the studs broken flush? If so, you can try to turn them with a punch / chisel. Next would be to drill and easy out or weld a nut to the stud.

Lots of online sources like Off Road Design have replacements, I bought my ARP brand D60 studs from partsmike.com.

 

[mtnmankev]

Many years ago when I had my 66 K-20, the studs sheared off while I was WAY in the back country in the mountains.
I disassembled the wheel bearings, rotor, spindle, axle shaft, etc to be able to repair it.
Didn't take much for tools, and the only special tool was the spindle locknut socket.
The broken studs came out easy, as there was still plenty to grab a hold of once the knuckle bearing cap was removed.
The worst part was losing the tapered collar retainer things that go into the knuckle cap, I got lucky and found a machinist to make me some.
I reassembled the knuckles with grade 8 bolts and never had any problems after that.
The truck is long gone many years now, but I still have the tapered shim things to go under the bolts into the knuckle cap.
If you can't find any, let me know and I will make you a good deal on them.

 

[bucket]

To get the knuckle off, the axle needs to be out. And of course to get the axle out, the hub and spindle need to come off.

 

[Isaac nickerson]

The studs are not flush. They are below the surface of the knuckle about a 1/4 inch.

 

[nvrenuf]

The studs are not flush. They are below the surface of the knuckle about a 1/4 inch.

Being below the surface I'm not sure I'd try welding a nut on it, my personal welding skill is on the low side of mediocre so I'd probably mess up any exposed threads.

I'd try turning them with a small chisel. If that doesn't work then drill and easy out.

Since the studs were likely installed without issue and the top clamping nut gone there should be minimal tension on them. Take some time, add penetrant and maybe heat, if you can get them to move at all they should turn out.

 

[Isaac nickerson]

Well I know it been a long time since I posted on this thread as I have had limited time to work on it. But I got the old studs out via welder and I am about to put the new studs in. I've heard the way to do it is to just put some loctite on the studs and snug them down. Is this correct? Anyone have a torque spec? I know you shouldn't put to much force to them considering you are only tightening against a smooth shaft.

 

[nvrenuf]

I believe they should literally only be snug. The stud gets it’s clamping effect from the nut pulling it against the bed of threads, I would screw it in hand tight (with blue Loctite).