Sagging doors: where to start?

[EastAustinSawdust]

I have what appears to be sagging doors on my ‘78. It’s much more noticeable in the front…the cab gap toward the bottom of the door is almost nonexistent. See pics below.

Question is, where do I start? I’ve read other threads where people have shimmed door hinges, replaced hinge pins, replaced the door striker, or even adjusted the panels surrounding the door. Curious to hear y’all’s thoughts on how to approach this.

Per the last pic, both my door strikers have a notch worn in them. Reckon that is contributing to the sag? Should I replace those bushings? The doors close fine, doesn’t seem to be affecting that.

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[Chris64]

Your strikers aren't in terrible shape.

Usually the door pins need to be replaced assuming the doors haven't been completely removed.

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They're pretty cheap and relatively easy to replace (watch videos). I removed the door from the outer bolts to do it and I ended up just cutting the factory pins out. The new ones went in easier.

If that doesn't level it, you can adjust the doors but it's a pain. You loosen the bolts on the hinge located behind the fender (I think you have to remove the fenders, which means the grill and hood too. Also one is in the kick panel too IIRC) If it comes to that I've heard it's best to remove the striker and get it to align properly without it. Optionally, there's a tool that can help align the door, but that requires the striker.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Replace all four hinge pins and bushings. Then adjust doors accordingly. You adjust them by loosening the bolts until they're just snug, usually one decently snug, it's a pain in the sense you'll have to remove the doors a few times. Adjust until you reach the desired fit, you'll understand after you adjust a couple times. The door bolts adjust height and depth. The cab bolts adjust angle and side to side.

You DO NOT ALIGN WITH THE STRIKER. During the alignment of the doors, the striker needs to be removed completely. Then after the door is properly hung, you install the striker where the door says it needs to be. All the strikers do is latch the doors closed, it has nothing to do with door alignment. The striker also dictates the edge of the rear of the door depth as well.

You don't need to pull the front clip, it would be helpful in every way but you don't have that line for alignment after that. But if you get the door fitting in the door pocket correctly you should be able to adjust a little on the front clip and not have an issue.

All you need is hinge pins, bushings, and proper alignment. Make sure the return springs are good to go(you'll want to square them away now) can't be done safely with the doors on imo. As long as the bushing holes aren't slopped out. I recommend using the factory hinges instead of new ones, rebuild if you can.

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[Ken B]

Agree with the previous posts not a horrible job but huge improvement. I would recommend after that get new door striker and new nylon bushing for door striker.

 

[fast 99]

Inspect area around hinges for cracking of the door frame, especially upper hinge. If found will need to be repaired or door replaced.

After adjusting weatherstrip may or may not seal.

 

[bucket]

It looks to me like the focus is in the wrong area here. While the doors may be sagging slightly, the door/fender gap is FAR worse than the door/cab gap.

There is an issue up front for sure. Likely core support bushings that are completely shot or missing altogether. Or a bent frame, but let's hope that's not the issue.

 

[EastAustinSawdust]

Likely core support bushings that are completely shot or missing altogether.

Are you referring to the bushings between the frame and the body? Is there a specific bushing up front that you’re thinking of? Never done a full rebuild before so I’ve never had to deal with stuff like that.

I reckon I’ll still start with hinge pin replacement, since it’s such a common wear point and not too bad of a project to take on. If that doesn’t do it I’ll have to do some further diagnosis.

 

[bucket]

Are you referring to the bushings between the frame and the body? Is there a specific bushing up front that you’re thinking of? Never done a full rebuild before so I’ve never had to deal with stuff like that.

I reckon I’ll still start with hinge pin replacement, since it’s such a common wear point and not too bad of a project to take on. If that doesn’t do it I’ll have to do some further diagnosis.

With all due respect, you may just be wasting your time with that plan of attack. One of the major culprits of door sag is the door itself. If you can't jiggle the door up and down, your pins and bushings are ok. There are two ways to take care of the commonly tweaked door issue. One way is fast and easy, the other way is involved.

But your fender gaps are absolutely terrible. Look at where the radiator/core support mounts on the frame, up near the front bumper. Check that the rubber isolator bushings are still in one piece, or there at all.

 

[bucket]

I guess also check the rear cab mount bushings too. If they are falling apart, it could also cause the issue.

 

[Snoots]

Preparing the door

Install the door hinges on the door and make sure that the lower hinge is in the closed position; this will give you a straight shot at it on installation.

Install the door latch; having the door latch installed will help with aligning the door, especially if you’ve taken on the job alone and then, install the door jamb sticker plate.


Prepare the door jambs and gap gauges

Before I mount the door I prep the rear door jambs and rocker panel with my panel gap gauge made out of pop-sickle sticks (you can use paint sticks), this will set the initial gap as well as help protect the jambs and rocker from an impact with the door edges.


Mounting and Aligning the Door

Once the door is mounted and the striker plate is adjusted so the rear of the door is aligned pretty well I move to fine tuning the door alignment.


Door Hinges 101

The body side of the hinges allow adjustments to be made: up, down and front to back.

The door side of the hinge allows adjustments to be made: up, down, inboard and outboard.

Each adjustment should be made to one hinge side at a time, tighten the bolts and then move to the next adjustment.


Problem and Solution

P: The gap between the top rear of the door and the quarter panel is too close; you need to widen the gap.

S: Make the adjustment at the top body side hinge; nudge it forward until you achieve the appropriate gap.


P: The bottom rear of the door is sticking out and is not flush with the body.

S: Make the adjustment at the top door side hinge; pull the top front of the door outward and you will see the lower rear of the door drift inward.


Top rear in or out = lower door side hinge

Bottom rear in or out = upper door side hinge

Setting gap and angle = body side hinges, up down, forward or back

 

[PrairieDrifter]

It looks to me like the focus is in the wrong area here. While the doors may be sagging slightly, the door/fender gap is FAR worse than the door/cab gap.

There is an issue up front for sure. Likely core support bushings that are completely shot or missing altogether. Or a bent frame, but let's hope that's not the issue.

Look at the top rear of the door though. It's touching the cab, indicative of door pins. Same with the rear of the door to cab gap.

Id put money on there's paint rubbed off in that top corner and on the rear of the rocker, where the door has been rubbing.

 

[mxer147]

Carefully inspect the pins and brass bushings for wear, worn bushings typically fall out and you can lift up on the door bottom to see the pin moving around. The driver side usually wears more than passenger side. Replace worn parts as needed. The paint looks pretty good so I would tape the edges of fender and door to prevent scratches if and when you begin adjusting assuming you don’t remove the fender. Take your time and adjust a little bit at a time and open and close door slowly to ensure you aren’t rubbing the paint anywhere. You might need some shims too.

 

[bucket]

Look at the top rear of the door though. It's touching the cab, indicative of door pins. Same with the rear of the door to cab gap.

Id put money on there's paint rubbed off in that top corner and on the rear of the rocker, where the door has been rubbing.

Yes, I do see that. But there is not enough correction needed in the door/cab gap to make up for that horrendous door/fender gap. Keep in mind that the door/cab gap is twice as long (roughly) as the door/fender gap, which means that for any given adjustment at the rear of the door will equal only half that much at the front of the door.

I'm not saying that the door bushings aren't bad, they very well could be. I'm just saying not to replace them if they aren't worn. Of the 15-ish squarebodies I've had, none have needed bushings. But, the doors have been tweaked on half of them.