Resurrecting Clifford the big red 87 R3500

[DoubleDingo]

WOW, thats a crappy pic! It really does look better than that!

Looks like a solid patch to me

 

[foamypirate]

Lookin' good man!

 

[Georgeb]

Well, I guess Ol' Clifford don't like the interstate in this warm of weather. Made a 5 min run to pick up my boys birthday cake and thought I was going to need a tow. As I was cruising along The check engine light came on but I was right at my off ramp. Once I got to the light the engine sounded like every lifter was ticking at once and she had almost no power to even idle. The poor thing has really low oil pressure when hot but At that point it wouldn't register on the guage at all. I am surprised the oil pressure switch stayed closed to power the fuel pump. Anyway, it inproved after it cooled and I limped it home on the back roads. Looks like the replacement engine will be sooner than later. Supprised I didn't spin a bearing!!

 

[Georgeb]

Looking for opinions here. I am torn between carb or TBI while considering my replacement engine while there are some things I like about the TBI they dont seem to out weigh the simplicity and exellent running I have grown to love about my Q-jet 350 in the 78. Can I get a show of hands with an explanation why you chose the route you did??

 

[HotRodPC]

If it don't smoke, burn alot of oil or foul plugs, just put some rod bearings in the motor and that should get you by for quite some time until you get the restoration done, then keep your eye open for a motor in the mean time. May as well put a new oil pump in it too while the pan is off, they're cheap enough. Call it a 1 day patch job.

 

[Georgeb]

If it don't smoke, burn alot of oil or foul plugs, just put some rod bearings in the motor and that should get you by for quite some time until you get the restoration done, then keep your eye open for a motor in the mean time. May as well put a new oil pump in it too while the pan is off, they're cheap enough. Call it a 1 day patch job.

No, it does'nt smoke or burn any oil. It doe's use coolant since this is the motor with the cracked block tho. It is back to running like normal without making any noise. I do have one of the lifters adjusted really close to the bottom because it collapses when the engine is hot. The noise I was hearing after the interstate run was valvetrain noise. I'm thinking if this engine leaves the frame rails it wont be returning. My oil pressure this time of year is at 30# at startup and doesnt register on the gage when at operating temp. I was thinking of running 10-40 in it to see if I could gain some pressure. If I knew of a good short block manfacturere I would consider going that route. I can't decide if I want to keep the TBI and that plays a big roll in the whole project because of wiring harness selection and engine design based around the intake manifold. They really soak ya on a TBI intake alltho I could do the mod to the center holes on my existing manifold. I have a good running but worn 4 bolt main 350 in my 78 thats a possable rebuilder for this truck. Can't decide......

 

[Georgeb]

I gotta say I liked my Q-jet setup better than the TBI. Cold starting was never an issue. A few jabs of the throttle and she starts right up even in the winter.

 

[Georgeb]

I gotra say I liked my Q-jet setup better than the TBI. Cold starting was never an issue. A few jabs of the throttle and she starts right up even in the winter.

Plus no surging or finicky running. It's a turn key and go setup. I guess the TBI is too in a way except the electronic brain seems to have dimentia or is bipolar......

 

[Georgeb]

Bringing this back to the top as I am looking for opinions if I can get any....

 

[Georgeb]

Well, the 91 engine I looked into today smoked way too much for my comfort. Like constantly when warmed up. It also had too good of oil pressure at warm idle to really be that healthy with over 200k on it. There were meticulous records of all the maintenance too. The oil felt thick and really sticky even when warm. Gotta keep looking

On a side not I did get to lay out the hole for the hump I need to install.

 

[Georgeb]

New tank of argon. Let the fun resume!!

 

[MadOgre]

I wouldn't put that cracked block back in either or spend any money on it!

Dart makes good blocks and heads but it will cost you! You could make a 427 SB with a dart block lol

I would redo the 78' 350 if it checked out. Bore 30 over and new rotating assembly with flat tops.

 

[Georgeb]

I wouldn't put that cracked block back in either or spend any money on it!

Dart makes good blocks and heads but it will cost you! You could make a 427 SB with a dart block lol

I would redo the 78' 350 if it checked out. Bore 30 over and new rotating assembly with flat tops.

That 78 350 is a sweetheart! The only trouble is its in a driving truck that may bring more $$ when Its time to........sigh.......send down the road.

I know of a 95 motor the only trouble is it has a van attached to it. I would be able to check it out well befor puting it in too. I priced out a rebuild including machining and it will be the same cost as a crate long block at about $1600.00+

 

[MadOgre]

That 78 350 is a sweetheart! The only trouble is its in a driving truck that may bring more $$ when Its time to........sigh.......send down the road.

I know of a 95 motor the only trouble is it has a van attached to it. I would be able to check it out well befor puting it in too. I priced out a rebuild including machining and it will be the same cost as a crate long block at about $1600.00+

Yes but a $1600 crate motor is just a rebuilt engine, it is not made from new everything. A $3500 crate motor is though.

I would just start with trying to find a solid block. Maybe even ask the machine shop? The rotating assembly from your cracked motor could be re-used unless you just want all new rotating parts.

But I suppose a $1600 long block should be half decently reliable and just a lot easier all the way around.

I personally would work on getting a solid short block with an RV cam and flat tops together, with which ever route you choose. Then find some cheap vortec heads to finish it with. Probably junkyard specials. Have them reworked at the machine shop. Usually if their no good the junk yard will replace them for free with in 30 days or whatever there policy is. If you buy a full cam kit it will give you new pushrods, springs, and timing set.

 

[Georgeb]

Yes but a $1600 crate motor is just a rebuilt engine, it is not made from new everything. A $3500 crate motor is though.

I would just start with trying to find a solid block. Maybe even ask the machine shop? The rotating assembly from your cracked motor could be re-used unless you just want all new rotating parts.

But I suppose a $1600 long block should be half decently reliable and just a lot easier all the way around.

I personally would work on getting a solid short block with an RV cam and flat tops together, with which ever route you choose. Then find some cheap vortec heads to finish it with. Probably junkyard specials. Have them reworked at the machine shop. Usually if their no good the junk yard will replace them for free with in 30 days or whatever there policy is. If you buy a full cam kit it will give you new pushrods, springs, and timing set.

Yeah, I agree with all that for sure. I think what I may do is check out the 350 in the van my buddy has. If it's viable I will put it in and run it for a while just so I have something that is reliable. In the end it would end up being free or close to it. That way I can focus on other things that need done as well and then put together another motor or pull and rebuild that one down the road. Right now I am a one legged man in an ass kicking contest on this project with a cab to prep, a shot engine and fall in the air already. Kinda over my head right now.