Replacing rubber brake lines, i'm about to lose it

[yevgenievich]

I had to use heat on last c10 that I replaced rubber lined on

 

[Iamthewalrus]

Well thanks for all the replies everyone. I did manage to get the pin out and get them loose, but still could not get the nut to come off connecting the hard line to the rubbers. I have been jacking with this **** for three weeks and just gave in and took it to a brake place. The guy had a set of interesting channel lock type things that I definitely need that he said has reverse facing teeth that he swore he could getting anything off with. Turns out he was right. So I did avoid having to do the hard lines, though i'll need a vice grip probably if I have to take them off again any time soon since they're almost totally rounded.

 

[C10MixMaster]

Silly question but...Do you have the vice grips facing the right direction? Some vice grips are like pipe wrenches; they grip better facing the right way.

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[Iamthewalrus]

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I tried every tool I had every which way I could think of.


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[wixthedog]

Sometimes you have to know when to say when... Another option would be to cut it a little further back and then use a compression fitting. Not ideal but it would get you down the road.

 

[F-64]

Ooooooh
Not sure about the compression fitting.
Those joint are double-flared for a reason.

I just cut mine. Those nuts are a serious pain. All of the joints seize. I ran copper/nickel brake line instead to deal with the rust issue. You can bend copper/nickel by hand. Just make sure it's protected from underbody projectiles/hazards as it is softer that steel. Volvo uses this as standard brake line material due to winter salt corrosion.

For the double-flares though i would get the tool the Eastwood sells. The standard double-flaring tool does not make a reliable joint and is extremely frustrating to use.

 

[TubeTruck]

Ooooooh
Not sure about the compression fitting.
Those joint are double-flared for a reason.

I just cut mine. Those nuts are a serious pain. All of the joints seize. I ran copper/nickel brake line instead to deal with the rust issue. You can bend copper/nickel by hand. Just make sure it's protected from underbody projectiles/hazards as it is softer that steel. Volvo uses this as standard brake line material due to winter salt corrosion.

For the double-flares though i would get the tool the Eastwood sells. The standard double-flaring tool does not make a reliable joint and is extremely frustrating to use.

I agree on the no compression fitting for permanent fixes but they'll get you home in a pinch.

Eastwood has a ton of flaring tools. Don't use the ones that have wingnuts on the ends of the tubing holder. Those suck. Personally I have never had any luck with them, they just push the tubing though the tool. I have a Rigid which clamps right on the line. It's a pain to get the double flare insert in and out, especially on the vehicle, but it makes a perfect flare every time. I just need to get one that makes metric fittings now.

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[ali_c20]

I switched from rubber to to stainless steel braided brake hoses and stainless steel brake lines. Everything works great since 6 years. No rust or cracking hoses, I hope it stays that way for the next 20 years. Maybe worth to think about that option.

 

[F-64]

I figure I better put a link to the Eastwood tool. Otherwise, someone might be confused as to which one I used. Eastwood does sell quite a few models.
Yeah, those wingnut ones are abysmal.

I used this one.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html

Stainless is nice but it is tough to work with. Much easier to bend and flare NiCopp tubing. If you can work with the stainless, then that is an amazing option. I just don't have the bending tools to get it to look good.

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[ali_c20]

Stainless is a nightmare to work with. I was lucky a friend of mine has pro brake tools in his shop.

 

[HotRodPC]

I switched from rubber to to stainless steel braided brake hoses and stainless steel brake lines. Everything works great since 6 years. No rust or cracking hoses, I hope it stays that way for the next 20 years. Maybe worth to think about that option.

Careful using stainless braided lines. I mean I think they're great, but if you're in a state that's picky and they see those hoses and they're not DOT approved they'll fail the vehicle.

Cali damn sure will. I had a buddy whose truck was totalled. He didnt' realize the insurance co had totalled it which made him have to get a rebuilt title. To do that, it had to have a light and brake inspection. He's had stainless braided lines on that truck for years. Cali failed it for non approved DOT brake lines. He had to go buy rubber lines install them and go back. That was many years ago.

 

[HotRodPC]

About removing the clip. IIRC, the clip just holds the rubber line in place and has nothing to do with the flare nut. In fact it's best to leave the clip in place to hold the rubber hose still so you can work the flare nut.

PB Blaster soaking, some tapping, and a little heat with a good flare nut wrench will usually get the ones that are salvageable. If it's past all that, then I'd just replace it. Last time I did mine I also coated it with silicone to keep the water off and hopefully prolong the life of getting crusty. I can easily peel silicone out of the way.

 

[Scotty D]

I tried everything on mine, soak, heat, soak, vice grips, I ended up replacing the lines, and the proportioning valve- (that was worse) it’s not that expensive and you have piece of mind, not to mention how much trouble you’re going to have getting those old lines to reseal if you do get them disconnected.

 

[ali_c20]

Careful using stainless braided lines. I mean I think they're great, but if you're in a state that's picky and they see those hoses and they're not DOT approved they'll fail the vehicle.

Cali damn sure will. I had a buddy whose truck was totalled. He didnt' realize the insurance co had totalled it which made him have to get a rebuilt title. To do that, it had to have a light and brake inspection. He's had stainless braided lines on that truck for years. Cali failed it for non approved DOT brake lines. He had to go buy rubber lines install them and go back. That was many years ago.

I had them made by a local company, they give you a certificate which allows you to use them in Austria. Without that certificate you will fail annual the inspection.

 

[HotRodPC]

I had them made by a local company, they give you a certificate which allows you to use them in Austria. Without that certificate you will fail annual the inspection.

I once took a hose into a hose making place and told him I wanted it in braided line. He could smell the brake fluid. He even told me, I can't make this for you because I can't DOT approve it. I told him, I don't need it DOT approved. He asked, isn't this the rear rubber brake hose? (cuz it was part steel on the ends and then part rubber) I said NO, it's a hydraulic clutch master cylinder hose to the slave cylinder, I figured the length would have told you that. He said oh OK, not problem them I'll have it ready in about in about 15 minutes. You want braided all the way with the same fittings right? Yep, and add about 6 inches to it cuz I'm routing it differently than OEM and anchoring it out of the way. GitRDone !!!