Replacing leaf springs

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Charlie Kleman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
72
Reaction score
51
Location
Johnstown, PA
First Name
Charlie
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7 350
So I plan on ordering new leaf springs for my 78 K20 project here soon just looking for some input from anyone who’s done this already.

What I was thinking was do stock replacements in the rear and Tuff Country 2” EZ ride springs in the front to level the truck out. Wasn’t sure if anyone did anything similar or thinks that would make the truck way higher in the front than the rear which I don’t want.

Also anyone have any experience with Michigan Truck Spring? I just found their website a few days ago and their prices seem to be very reasonable.
 

omillan99

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2015
Posts
85
Reaction score
25
Location
El Paso, TX
First Name
Oscar
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20 Scottsdale
Engine Size
350 4 Bolt
On my K20 I had the front springs re-arched and had a leaf added in and it made the front taller then the rear. It is no where near as bad to consider it like a "Tennessee tilt" you can hardly even notice it. Not sure if that's what you are looking for. Hope this picture helps.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Charlie Kleman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
72
Reaction score
51
Location
Johnstown, PA
First Name
Charlie
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7 350
On my K20 I had the front springs re-arched and had a leaf added in and it made the front taller then the rear. It is no where near as bad to consider it like a "Tennessee tilt" you can hardly even notice it. Not sure if that's what you are looking for. Hope this picture helps.
You must be registered for see images attach

That looks good! What size tire are you running? I was thinking about trying to fit 33s
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,918
Reaction score
4,125
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
My last truck was a '79 K15 I axle swapped. I had 33x12.50x16.5's with 9.75" wide wheels. It had 4" EZ Rides with a 4" block. The body was level. You truck probably has a couple more leaves in the rear than mine did. With a 2" spring in front, you may need a 1" block or "Zero lift" from ORD in the rear. I had my rear springs on my K30 re-arched locally. They also replaced a couple of broken leaves.

With an almost 10" wide wheel my tires would have rubbed without trimming on the '79. 285/75/16 and 305/70/16 are 32.8" tall. With an 8" wide wheel they probably won't rub with a 2" lift.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

77 K20

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Posts
3,107
Reaction score
3,144
Location
Montana
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K20 5" lift
Engine Size
HT383 fuel injected
I don't have any experience with Michigan Truck Spring.

Out of curiosity why do you want to replace the rear springs? Cracked? Sagging?

A 2" lift spring in the front might actually lift it more than 2" depending on how much the old springs sagged.

For rear springs I had read from someone that worked in a suspension shop for most of his life he would only use Triangle or Dayton springs. They were supposed to be good quality. So when I went shopping for my rear springs I used RockAuto. You get a discount since they are a vendor here. And they carry these brands.

A new identical spring pack will raise up the rear a bit. No way to tell how much for sure. If it is not enough make sure you keep your U bolts a bit long- you can always add a zero rate to them to raise it 1".
 

Red Rex

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2014
Posts
336
Reaction score
564
Location
Middle Ga
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K 1500 4 WD shortbed
Engine Size
350
Eaton Detroit spring is who I used. Very satisfied. Call them as they have a good tech dept
 

Charlie Kleman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
72
Reaction score
51
Location
Johnstown, PA
First Name
Charlie
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7 350
Yeah there’s a few cracks in them, and the bushings are pretty much worthless haha I think I’m just gonna get the new rear ones and see how much it raises the rear and try to judge what to do with the front off that
 

Charlie Kleman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2019
Posts
72
Reaction score
51
Location
Johnstown, PA
First Name
Charlie
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7 350
Yeah there’s a few cracks in them, and the bushings are pretty much worthless haha I think I’m just gonna get the new rear ones and see how much it raises the rear and try to judge what to do with the front off that
 

Joe T

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Posts
454
Reaction score
311
Location
Houston
First Name
Joe
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
I don't have any experience with Michigan Truck Spring.

Out of curiosity why do you want to replace the rear springs? Cracked? Sagging?

A 2" lift spring in the front might actually lift it more than 2" depending on how much the old springs sagged.

For rear springs I had read from someone that worked in a suspension shop for most of his life he would only use Triangle or Dayton springs. They were supposed to be good quality. So when I went shopping for my rear springs I used RockAuto. You get a discount since they are a vendor here. And they carry these brands.

A new identical spring pack will raise up the rear a bit. No way to tell how much for sure. If it is not enough make sure you keep your U bolts a bit long- you can always add a zero rate to them to raise it 1".


Zero rate in the front? 1 inch lift?
 

77 K20

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Posts
3,107
Reaction score
3,144
Location
Montana
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K20 5" lift
Engine Size
HT383 fuel injected
Yes, a zero rate is a 1" lift (block/add a leaf) that bolts into your spring pack. It is legal to use even in the front because it is bolted in- instead of wedged in like a block.
With this zero rate you can keep your tire centered in the wheel well or you have the option of moving your axle forwards of backwards 1" or 1.5"

You must be registered for see images


https://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,411
Posts
956,916
Members
36,731
Latest member
LucHiscox98
Top