Replacing intake manifold+gaskets

[BabyBlueChevrolet]

So I am about to throw on an aftermarket aluminum edelbrock intake, 4 barrel carb, and distributor for my ‘73 C20 350 small block. I’ve done intake gaskets before on my 2003 blazer which were fairly easy, just time consuming.

My biggest concern with this job is that the intake gaskets don’t have the little tabs that hold them in place. How would i get them to stay?

Im also wondering if I should use any blue loctite or thread sealer on the new bolts.

Since I have to do this in my parking spot at home, I dont have access to a vacuum or compressed air in case debris falls in the lifter valley. what is the best way to prevent debris from falling in? I was thinking duct tape and carboard. Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[BabyBlueChevrolet]

Also wondering, should i use some black rtv around the water passageways? I bought the mahle nitroseal (graphite) gaskets. And should i use a wire brush on a cordless drill to clean the surfaces?

 

[BabyBlueChevrolet]

ALSO, how much coolant do i need to drain and where is the best place to drain it from to not make a mess?

 

[Rustisbest]

I start by bumping the engine over until the rotor is pointing straight ahead to pull the distributor. Mark your plug wires and cap with masking tape and a sharpie and any vacuum lines you have. Pull the drain plug on the lower part of the block about midways back. It's gonna make a mess no way around it. May have to poke through the rust/scale that's settled it there with a screwdriver or pick to get it to drain.

I clean all the surfaces with a razor blade and brake or carb cleaner with rags laid in the valley. Shop vac to get any debris the rags dont catch. Dont forget to pull the rags out when youre done (I've left em myself and remembered after i set the intake down lol) Grey or copper RTV around the coolant ports and a couple dabs across the gasket to hold them in place. Big fat beads of RTV across the endrails and make sure you get some under the ends and on top of the intake gaskets where they meet.

Try to set the intake straight on and don't wiggle it around much. Get all the bolts started by hand and then pull em back out 1 at a time and get some sealer on the threads and put em back in. I've used RTV or permatex #2 for this. Torque sequence should be included with the paperwork.

I usually take a break and let the RTV set up a little bit then prefill the block with coolant/water before putting the thermostat in and housing on.

Getting the distributor back in is usually a PITA ining up the gear and oil pump drive. Sometimes they fall right in but not always. A long screwdriver might be needed to turn the oil pump drive so the distributor fully seats. Dont forget your new gasket.

Change the oil before firing it up and top off the coolant. Get a timing light and verify ignition timing. Good luck!

 

[fast 99]

Make sure the bolts are in correct location. If using stock bolts there are 2 different lengths. Long one in wrong location will hit pushrod.

 

[75gmck25]

I also had problems with the old end flange bolts being about 1/4” too long when I swapped to an aluminum intake, so they bottomed out before they fully pulled the intake down completely. It was confusing because I could properly torque them but still not get a good seal. The leak showed up as antifreeze weeping out beteeen the intake and the head.

The inside bolts don’t have an issue because they go through the flange into the lifter galley. However, those bolts need rtv sealant on the threads so that oil doesn’t wick up around them.

Use washers under the bolt heads to prevent having them bite into the aluminum intake.

If you have the time it’s also worthwhile to pull the plugs and valve covers and adjust the valves. New gaskets on the valve covers will help prevent oil leaks later.

 

[hogdaddy]

I would not use rtv but I have in the past and that stuff is hard to get out later if ever needed. I would chase holes with a tap and use Arp thread sealant instead.

 

[BabyBlueChevrolet]

Will teflon tread tape work?

 

[75gmck25]

I’ve always used the same oil resistant RTV that I used on the end of the manifold, but Teflon tape may also work fine. I know they sell an HD Teflon tape (grey color) that is thicker and may work better.

 

[Ricko1966]

This is what I use.

 

[hogdaddy]

Will teflon tread tape work?

I don't believe teflon tape is made for that to be honest. The Arp thread sealant works well sealing just about everything on an engine.
The Permatex above probably works just as good too!

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[BabyBlueChevrolet]

I ended up using blue monster pipe dope…

 

[Mango]

I am About to change my Intake Gaskets Should i Saok The Bolts first? With PB Blaster or similar product? 188,000 miles never been done! Afraid of breaking bolts at least one by Cylinder 2 where the leak is

 

[squaredeal91]

I'd soak it and some more when loosening, if it loosens hard go back and forth till its out. Sometimes you spend 20 minutes on one bolt. But its Better than a broken bolt.

 

[SquareRoot]

I am About to change my Intake Gaskets Should i Saok The Bolts first? With PB Blaster or similar product? 188,000 miles never been done! Afraid of breaking bolts at least one by Cylinder 2 where the leak is

I can't hurt. If you got time, I would do it.