Replacing compressor

[87ChevyR10]

Ok, so the shift bearings are fried and I need a/c. So, with that in mind, what's the poor man's method of draining the freon and which side does it get released from. System has been converted to r134a.

Thanks!

 

[yevgenievich]

Ask someone to collect it is the better choice

 

[1low4x4]

Just crack the lines on the compressor and let it leak out. Your little 36 oz of refrigerant won't put a dent in the ozone compared to what big industrial has done for a hundred years. Then change the compressor, pull a vacuum and recharge

 

[87ChevyR10]

Just crack the lines on the compressor and let it leak out. Your little 36 oz of refrigerant won't put a dent in the ozone compared to what big industrial has done for a hundred years. Then change the compressor, pull a vacuum and recharge

What do you mean by pull a vacuum?

 

[1low4x4]

You might want to do a little research on google before you attempt this man.

 

[animal]

What do you mean by pull a vacuum?

Someone else with more knowledge will chime in but in a nutshell the system must be "vacummed" down prior to charging in order to get a full charge into the system.

 

[1low4x4]

When you vacuum you remove moisture from the system so it doesn't freeze and it will cool better. Also if the compressor ate itself you need to flush the system, as their may be particles and contaminates in it. Also, replace the dryer, orifice tube and I like to replace the condenser cause they are hard to clean if a compressor has blown up

 

[1low4x4]

A vacuum also shows you if you have leaks or not. Before you waste refrigerant.

 

[87ChevyR10]

Mine didn't blow up, the shaft bearing seized. I knew this from when I would squirt wd40 on it and it would quit squeaking.

 

[adamj]

Does the evaporator ever need to be flushed? Or just the condenser?

 

[foamypirate]

Does the evaporator ever need to be flushed? Or just the condenser?

Generally speaking, since the evaporator is after the screened orifice tube, it doesn't get much junk. Just a quick reverse flush is all it should need, not heavy flushing. This removes the old oil.

 

[350runner]

Anyone who purposely releases refrigerant into the ozone faces a fine up to 27k. JUST a heads up. Sorry I'm a party pooper...

A vacuum removes non-condensibles from the system. Here's what happens. The h2o inn the air mixes with the oil and turns to acid. Then eats the vains in the compressor slowly. Once it's toast the system must be flushed with r11 to remove the acid. I'm aN HVAC TECH...

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[foamypirate]

Anyone who purposely releases refrigerant into the ozone faces a fine up to 27k. JUST a heads up. Sorry I'm a party pooper...

A vacuum removes non-condensibles from the system. Here's what happens. The h2o inn the air mixes with the oil and turns to acid. Then eats the vains in the compressor slowly. Once it's toast the system must be flushed with r11 to remove the acid. I'm aN HVAC TECH...

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

I don't think R11 has been used much lately, certainly not like it has been in the past. US production quit in 1996. It was quite popular back when R12 was the primary refrigerant though.

 

[350runner]

Say bud stop by a local ac supply store. It's what's in the cans of flush. I've been doing this for some time now. It's actually called rx11 flush. Those of us in the trade just call it r11. http://www.nucalgon.com/products/tsp/rx11-flush

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[87ChevyR10]

Why can't anything be simple... Sheesh, can't just replace one part without a billion others needing replacing, too.

I guess I'll see what a shop will charge to capture and flush out A/C system. I should be able to handle everything else myself.