Ricko1966
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2017
- Posts
- 5,450
- Reaction score
- 8,693
- Location
- kansas
- First Name
- Rick
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- c20
- Engine Size
- 350
Okay a mechanical pump with three lines,1 line is a fuel return line to help prevent vapor lock and is a better pump than almost any electric pump you could put on a square. To replace that with an electric pump your 2 simplest options are use a wix 33041 fuel filter,or a bypass regullator,I know 3 more ways,time and space don't permit. An electric pump needs to be mounted close to the tank,should be below fuel level,at fuel level as a last resort,(read what the 12s propaganda says,gravity fed) powered by a relay, switched by an oil pressure switch or triggered by the alternator. A Mr gasket 12s lasted about 100 miles on my carbureted burb,I called MrGasket they said it really wasn't enough pump for a 350 4bbl burb . I personally would not run an electric pump on a carbureated square unless there was no other choice. In which case I'd use an intank pump,with a bypass regulator,just like the factory did them. @voodooskin carbureated squares had mechanical pumps,no electric pump required. The problem is when people use newer injected blocks in older carbureated chassis. Some later blocks do not have provisions for a mechanical pump. Those blocks came in vehicles that had in tank electric pumps. There's a reason the manufacturers put the pumps in the tank,it's not to make your life hard,it's to make the pumps life easy and long. Even if you find a vehicle with an external pump anymore it is fed by an intank electric pump it doesn't draw fuel,it pushes fuel.
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