Repairing Your Broken Glove Box Hinge

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HotRodPC

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Yep, someone needs to make contact with him at least to check in and update us. Last we heard, he was dealing with some drama at home and working mega hours. He's tough, I'm sure he's fine, but it sure be nice to hear from him for at least a minute. :sad72:
 

Mr Clean

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I broke my glove box hinge today, looked at LMC, and Classic Chevy. LMC 29.95 + 10.95 Classic Chevy 49.95 + 7.95. Both to much for me.

Went to local hardware store picked up a piece of Continuous Hinge 6.95.

Here are the tools I used:
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First disassemble your glove box, four screws on the inside, and the lock assembly.

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Measure the plastic tab from were your plastic hinge broke. Mine was about 16". I taped off 16" on the new hinge, and cut with a pair of metal shears. Filed the edges.

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Center it on your glove box, and drill new holes for the pop rivets, and pop rivet it together.

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Put the glove box back together:

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Take it out to the truck close it so the latch will keep it in place. I drilled new hole, and screwed it back together. You can use your old screws, or get new sheet metal screws, that's up to you.

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Tomorrow I'm going to get different sheet metal screws and paint the hinge.

Tried to fix the first post and couldn't figure it out, this was the best I could come up with
 

89Suburban

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animal

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HotRodPC

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I got your back.

I bet you did !!! You smelled "sheet metal screws" in a post and was all over the place sniffin in out til you found it. Imagine that, and it wasn't even self tappers. :happy175:
 

Mr Clean

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I bet you did !!! You smelled "sheet metal screws" in a post and was all over the place sniffin in out til you found it. Imagine that, and it wasn't even self tappers. :happy175:

We are going to have to teach him how to use a pop rivet gun one day.:signs8:
 

89Suburban

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Appreciate you coming back in here to fix the missing pics. I do my best to keep this forum cleaned up for just write ups. :)
 

89Suburban

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I bet you did !!! You smelled "sheet metal screws" in a post and was all over the place sniffin in out til you found it. Imagine that, and it wasn't even self tappers. :happy175:

Haters gonna hate. :crazy:
 

HotRodPC

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Haters gonna hate. :crazy:

No hatin' here. Remember, I"m a screw gun king too. I used to do screw on metal stud drywall. I'll assure you buddy, I've ran more screws than you probably 100x over. And yes, when it was heavy gauge metal, it was self tappers we used. Also used self tappers.
 

83K5guy

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Nice, I bet it holds up better than factory too
 

83kid

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Is this hinge just allowing the glove box to fold down, or does it stop it at a certain point?
My glove box just keeps on going till it falls out... wondering if this will fix it
 

HotRodPC

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Sounds like your stop is broke off. There is a plastic stop that's part of the whole box itself and the door is supposed to stop once that plastic hits the frame of dash. Prolly what happened at one time, some pulled it on hard or a kid stepped on it and broke it. You can keep your same metal door, but you're probably going to need a new plastic insert. Be sure to get the right one. The ones for a heater only truck are different than the ones for an AC truck to make room for the bigger air box.
 

bigcountry78

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Ok, I did this and followed the directions, but the door doesn’t close flush and won’t let me screw the bottom hinge into the dash frame. If I push the hinge up flush, then the latch barely hits the dash and won’t let the door close. What did I mess up??
 

69 gto

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I cut a couple of two inch wide pieces of plastic from the side of an oil bottle and pop riveted them to the glove box and used the plastic piece still on the dash for a washer to bolt everything back on.Just bend the plastic pieces in the middle back and forth a few times so the door don't stick out and you can see where the seam needs to go. Can't see the patch unless you lay down in the floor.
 

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