Redid brakes, drums dont fit

[hatzie]

Lithium grease eh? I'll have to give that a whirl, I've always used anti-seize.

Same here. Never-Seeze on the threads and the unthreaded pin and socket at the other end. Never had one lock up on me.

Wouldn't use it on a part that gets a lot of movement but these only move slightly over a long timeframe.

 

[chengny]

I thought the se[f-adjusters went on the REAR shoe???

Perry is right about the star wheel on the self-adjuster needing to be fixed to the rear shoe. It follows that the self adjusting arm also must be pivoted on the secondary (rear) shoe - so it can make contact with the star. Those locations/positions are fundamental to how these self adjusters work. This self-adjusting action happens when the brakes are applied - but only when the vehicle is moving in reverse.

When you are backing up and apply the brakes the rear shoe is pulled downward, thus levering the adjuster up on the star. If the adjusting arm is mounted to the front shoe, when the brakes are applied while backing up, the opposite will happen. The front shoe will move upward and cause the arm to move down in relation to the star wheel. This won't cause the brakes to un-adjust themselves, but they won't ever move from the point where you left them. As the linings wear, the clearance will just keep getting bigger and bigger - a loss of braking performance will eventually develop.

I suppose a case could be made that; with the arm and star wheel being operated by the front shoe the opposite would apply. The self adjusting action would then take place each time the brakes are applied while moving in the forward direction.

Here are a couple of images.

First one shows the brake components layed out in their proper locations:

You must be registered for see images attach

This shows (and clearly states) that the adjusting arm should be pivoted on the rear shoe - and also that the star wheel end of the self-adjuster should be closest to the rear shoe:

You must be registered for see images attach

Finally, an image showing what the brake components should look like when everything is fully assembled:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Obwonkonobe]

Perry is right about the star wheel on the self-adjuster needing to be fixed to the rear shoe. It follows that the self adjusting arm also must be pivoted on the secondary (rear) shoe - so it can make contact with the star. Those locations/positions are fundamental to how these self adjusters work. This self-adjusting action happens when the brakes are applied - but only when the vehicle is moving in reverse.

When you are backing up and apply the brakes the rear shoe is pulled downward, thus levering the adjuster up on the star. If the adjusting arm is mounted to the front shoe, when the brakes are applied while backing up, the opposite will happen. The front shoe will move upward and cause the arm to move down in relation to the star wheel. This won't cause the brakes to un-adjust themselves, but they won't ever move from the point where you left them. As the linings wear, the clearance will just keep getting bigger and bigger - a loss of braking performance will eventually develop.

I suppose a case could be made that; with the arm and star wheel being operated by the front shoe the opposite would apply. The self adjusting action would then take place each time the brakes are applied while moving in the forward direction.

Here are a couple of images.

First one shows the brake components layed out in their proper locations:

You must be registered for see images attach

This shows (and clearly states) that the adjusting arm should be pivoted on the rear shoe - and also that the star wheel end of the self-adjuster should be closest to the rear shoe:

You must be registered for see images attach

Finally, an image showing what the brake components should look like when everything is fully assembled:

You must be registered for see images attach

Son of a gun. Ive rebuilt the brakes 4 times, backwards... THANK YOU, il do it for a 5th and update you

 

[chengny]

Son of a gun. Ive rebuilt the brakes 4 times, backwards... THANK YOU, il do it for a 5th and update you

Here is a link to the complete tutorial. It's about halfway down the page:

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/brake-drums-shopping.8038/page-2#post-191193

 

[Obwonkonobe]

I just finished the driver side, same problem, drum won't fit..

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Blue Ox]

Hmmm,... Canadian Brakin'. Go figure.

Have you done a careful side by side of the old parts vs the new?

Also, looks like you're missing the strut bar and spring. Not that those will make things any better, but they belong there.

 

[Craig 85]

In post #17, the item listed as "strut" is either in the wrong position or not there in your last picture. Are the top of your shoes pushed all the way into the stud?

 

[HotRodPC]

In post #17, the item listed as "strut" is either in the wrong position or not there in your last picture. Are the top of your shoes pushed all the way into the stud?

Yep, that's what I was saying in an earlier post.

For ***** and giggles can you get another pic down lower of the adjuster? It could be my monitor aspect ratio, but that adjuster seems to be a bit long to me. Did you match it up with the old one???

 

[highdesertrange]

in the pic in post #20 the strut bar is not in the right location. highdesertranger

 

[rpcraft]

i've never used grease in the adjusters, just a light application of high temp (copper) anti-seize. I always thought putting grease in there has a risk of slinging it on the inside of the brake drum and contaminating the pad on the brake shoe???

 

[Snoots]

That rear shoe isn't seated properly. Look at the top. That rear shoe isn't isn't sitting right. I have a feeling you need to pull that shoe out of the groove in the backing plate. Pretty sure I see what's wrong, just not sure how to explain it. The rear shoe is your problem unless it's a funky camera angle, but it doesn't appear the top of that shoe is touching the big pin at the top.

Good eye HotRodPC!

I believe you're right.

Check out this 'How-To'. . .

 

[Obwonkonobe]

Just got the drivers side to fit..
You guys were right about struts and springs, I got the spring and got them installed correctly. As for the fitment, it turns out their are different sized adjustment bits for the bottom, I had the larger type and they were pushing my shoes out, I put in am old one and it all went together, I have new ones on order now for tomorrow

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Obwonkonobe]

Im going to get it all squared away tomorrow and hopefully go for the first drive. When i installed the adjusters i tightened them all the way and cracked them loose, does anyone know if they will need further adjustment? Or have any good articles explaining further adjustment?

 

[HotRodPC]

Just got the drivers side to fit..
You guys were right about struts and springs, I got the spring and got them installed correctly. As for the fitment, it turns out their are different sized adjustment bits for the bottom, I had the larger type and they were pushing my shoes out, I put in am old one and it all went together, I have new ones on order now for tomorrow

You must be registered for see images attach

That looks much better. I see the alignment at the top to the pin now and now it looks correct too. The spacing around the shoes vs the backing plate now looks equal. All makes sense now. Good Job figuring that out.

 

[MikeB]

Here's the problem using worn drums, or even turning them down: New shoes have a specific arch, but worn or freshly machined drums will have a larger arch. That means the outer edges of the new shoes will NOT CONTACT THE DRUM SURFACE until you wear down the shoes in the center. I have seen this situation so bad that only the center 1/3 of the shoes made contact with the drum, meaning the rear brakes worked at only 1/3 their potential. Unfortunately, you can't see this unless you take a new shoe and set it inside the drum.

Back in the day, shops would "arc in" shoes to fit snugly against the drums, but I can't remember the last time I saw one of those machines. I suggest you bite the bullet and get some new drums. I spent around $40/each for new finned drums at my local O'Reilly auto parts store.