"Rebuilt" 700r4 issues

[Obwonkonobe]

@Dutch Rutter @4WDKC

Its just a bend from a previous adjustment, I made sure to take up all the slack

 

[Obwonkonobe]

@Obwonkonobe Another question that ran into my mind. How is your torque converter lock up setup? I mainly ask because I do not see some of the vacuum lines in your pictures.

I dont have it hooked up, the builder told me its not worth it for the 200 rpm il drop

 

[Obwonkonobe]

OK, here you go. We used Lokar cables and brackets. Not cheap, but clean and functional, and much nicer than an OE-type cable on the trans end. I don't remember who makes the throttle lever geometry corrector bracket. We ended up with zero cable slack at closed throttle, and full cable tension at WOT.

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Currently at WOT I can pull just a hair more slack out of it, should I tighten that up before I test drive it and adjust from there?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Currently at WOT I can pull just a hair more slack out of it, should I tighten that up before I test drive it and adjust from there?

I'd give it a test drive as is. My cable would not adjust by itself and I had to do it by shift feel and rpm. Took several short drives till I got it right. And honestly if not using the converter lockup why get a 700r4? Just seems a bit counter productive to me, someone else will chime in. But I personally would hook it up. Mine also drops the rpm about 400+ while cruising.

 

[4WDKC]

I dont have it hooked up, the builder told me its not worth it for the 200 rpm il drop

it is absolutely necessary, not having the lock up keeps the converter from locking up, causing it to slip which created heat. In 1,2 and drive its not an issue because the pump is pumping fluid through the trans and the cooler but, in OD the pump stops pumping to make it more efficient and why the slipping needs to be stopped.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

it is absolutely necessary, the lock up keeps the converter from locking up, causing it to slip which created heat. In 1,2 and drive its not an issue because the pump is pumping fluid through the trans and the cooler but, in OD the pump stops pumping to make it more efficient and why the slipping needs to be stopped.

^this is what I was thinking as well. Just wouldn't be able to put it to words. And honestly a transmission builder saying something like that would make me question somethings.

Also on a side note a trans that is constantly locked will be super under-powered feeling and slow until you get it in higher RPM but even then it will never unlock which will be very bad.

 

[Obwonkonobe]

(Incorrect info)

 

[4WDKC]

Hmm, this makes me suspicious now, maybe he didn't want me to try using it because its broken.... Defiantly something il be looking into then

I typed that wrong, let me go edit it. Please edit your posts or requote me above to not spread bad information.

 

[4WDKC]

dont see a delete.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I typed that wrong, let me go edit it. Please edit your posts or requote me above to not spread bad information.

Now I'm even more confused then before. Either way, It is something you very much want to have hooked up and working. Either the factory method or an aftermarket kit like what 4wdkc suggested to me a while back. (I cant find the link right now) But those components and setting them up properly is only half of it because its possible the builder removed it completely, cut and grounded the wires, or did something else inside that trans. I would either ask them, or take the pan off and see for myself, most builders will not warranty their work if someone else removes the pan so be careful about that.

Here is the kit

https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/3766...fNZqz4sB2DLHRJfP-T3DllpGXZYLUDQBoC8MgQAvD_BwE

Also don't know if it will help but there is a lot of good info in this thread when I was having problems with my 700r4. http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/700r4-getting-hot.21175/

 

[Obwonkonobe]

dont see a delete.

My bad, I believe I've fixed it.

I just took it for a drive with new adjustments, it works!

 

[Dutch Rutter]

My bad, I believe I've fixed it.

I just took it for a drive with new adjustments, it works!

Great! So just to check do you feel every shift? 1-2 2-3 3-4 and maybe lockup if you have it all hooked up?
And how do the shifts feel, and are they at a good RPM range?

This is pretty much what I asked myself when I was adjusting mine by feel. well.. And after since I'm always a little paranoid about my pickup.

 

[HotRodPC]

I dont have it hooked up, the builder told me its not worth it for the 200 rpm il drop

hmmm, I just lost all confidence in your builder if he really said this and you didn't misunderstand something. It's more than 200rpm for one thing, maybe 300-400rpm and if that 300-400rpm happens to be just enough to put you into your sweet spot for the best highway mpg, then it's actually quite important isn't it??? And that's the minor factor to consider. The major factor to consider is heat and the longevity of your transmission. Let's face the fact that the 700r4 is NOT the most durable transmission of the GM lineup, and it is prone to having problems which heat being the #1 issue causing most of the common failures like 3/4 clutch pack burn up, and 2/4 band burn up. I'll just leave my opinion here and suggest, HOOK THAT **** UP !!!

 

[HotRodPC]

Let me add, so that I'm not misunderstood. I'm not saying by NOT having lock up hooked up that the 3/4 clutch pack will burn up, or that the 2/4 band will burn up. Lack of converter lock up is NOT what causes these issues. But, heat is a problem on the 700r4 so you want to keep it as cool as possible at all times possible. The cooler and the longer you can keep it cool, the longer it's going to last. Besides an additional trans cooler, the best way to keep it cool is by locking up the converter.

 

[Obwonkonobe]

dont see a delete.

My bad, I believe I've fixed it.

I just took it for a drive with new adjustments, it works!