Radiator removal

[81squared]

Hello

I purchased my first squarebody today. I got a 1980 K10 short bed.

its in really good shape body wise, mechanicals need some going through..

I want to replace the cooling system stat. I cannot figure out how to pull the shroud off to get to the radiator, do I have to pull the fan first ?

Shroud looks split in half and stapled closed again.

I could not find anything on You Tube

I have a million questions but Ill start with one for now...

thanks

 

[Dmack]

You will need to pull the fan first. Once out, I pull the staples and replace them with two 5\16" x1" bolts so you can easily pull the top separately in the future. Comes in handy when working on the belts, changing ps pump, water pump, etc.

And welcome.

 

[81squared]

second question, kinda off base but... my truck came with headers, I want to replace with stock manifolds. the collectors on the headers join with the muffler pipe rather far down the line, with the stock manifolds there seems to be a pipe missing connecting the manifold to the muffler pipe ( if that makes sense )

do I need a connector pipe ?

 

[SirRobyn0]

@81squared To further add to the answer for your first question I think that the shrouds were produced as two pieces and then during manufacturing made to be one forever, which is really to bad, later year trucks at least by the mid-90s had four bolts that held the to halves together, and those are super easy to take apart.

On your second question yes you'll need more pipe. It'll go something like this, remove headers, cut flange off existing pipe. Install exhaust manifolds, new down pipe also called flange pipe cause it has the flange to bolt to the manifolds, but it's just that, the flange and a few inches of pipe. You'll need more pipe, it'll need to be bent and welded in, or you'll need to buy pre-bent pipes and work with then as best you can. It really should be welded together (except where it bolts to the manifold of course). Alternatives would be to have an exhaust shop do all or some of the work or find what you need at wrecking yard. If you have a dual exhaust system and it does not have a cross over or H-pipe this would be a great time to have that added in.

 

[ali_c20]

Welcome from Austria.

@81squared To further add to the answer for your first question I think that the shrouds were produced as two pieces and then during manufacturing made to be one forever, which is really to bad, later year trucks at least by the mid-90s had four bolts that held the to halves together, and those are super easy to take apart.

On your second question yes you'll need more pipe. It'll go something like this, remove headers, cut flange off existing pipe. Install exhaust manifolds, new down pipe also called flange pipe cause it has the flange to bolt to the manifolds, but it's just that, the flange and a few inches of pipe. You'll need more pipe, it'll need to be bent and welded in, or you'll need to buy pre-bent pipes and work with then as best you can. It really should be welded together (except where it bolts to the manifold of course). Alternatives would be to have an exhaust shop do all or some of the work or find what you need at wrecking yard. If you have a dual exhaust system and it does not have a cross over or H-pipe this would be a great time to have that added in.

X2. Port the manifolds before you install them.

 

[86 SCOTTSDALE]

Welcome from Mass.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Why do you wanna put exhaust manifolds back on? I'd keep the hedders on if it was me.

Welcome from Texas

 

[Bextreme04]

The factory 1980 fan shroud is two pieces stapled together. A good option is to just drill a 5/16" hole on each side through both the top and bottom to bolt them together(make sure you use large fender washers on both sides so the bolts don't destroy the plastic) before you pull the top shroud off the bottom. That makes it much easier to get to the fan bolts to remove it too.

 

[sirweesarunch]

I dont blame you for shitcanning the headers. They’re noisy , hot , ugly as f—ck , and most applications they make your engine weaker if you dont add all the other items to retune it for the headers. They raise your power into the higher rpm ranges where you dont need it. I built a 406 SB with cast iron and that motor stuck you back in the seat up to 4000 rpm , and that was with a 2 barrel. I put a quadrajet 4 barrel and it didnt feel much quicker. Ohh yeah , no more burnt or arcing spark plug wires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[81squared]

thanks for the replys, Im having a shop piece the manifolds and to the exhaust pipes.

they dont make the Y pipe anymore... fun stuff !!

Im not looking for power, Im looking for quiet stock sound.

I am however converting to EFI in the coming months

Purchased Holley Sniper EFI with the fuel system, the hyper spark ignition box, distributer, and coil.

installing a edlebrock performer intake to accommodate the EFI

Replacing radiator, water pump and hoses etc

the games begin !!

 

[SirRobyn0]

Sounds like you have a great plan going for the truck. Like you I don't like a noisy exhaust, I don't mind dual as long as they are not loud.

We'd love to see pics of your truck too.

 

[Ricko1966]

second question, kinda off base but... my truck came with headers, I want to replace with stock manifolds. the collectors on the headers join with the muffler pipe rather far down the line, with the stock manifolds there seems to be a pipe missing connecting the manifold to the muffler pipe ( if that makes sense )

do I need a connector pipe ?

Do you have your manifolds yet? I ask because all manifolds are not created equal some flow real well some don't. And since the y pipe is no longer available and you have to have exhaust made you can have your cake and eat it to. Manifolds,decent flow and quiet exhaust. I was going to try some C4manifolds but havent got to it yet. I believe 2.5 inch rams horns fit. Someone will chime in soon.

 

[Durwoods85]

Hello

I purchased my first squarebody today. I got a 1980 K10 short bed.

its in really good shape body wise, mechanicals need some going through..

I want to replace the cooling system stat. I cannot figure out how to pull the shroud off to get to the radiator, do I have to pull the fan first ?

Shroud looks split in half and stapled closed again.

I could not find anything on You Tube

I have a million questions but Ill start with one for now...

thanks

Pretty sure you can just unbolt the shroud and push it back over the fan to remove the radiator. I've had a few squarebodies and don't remember one that you couldn't do that way.

 

[Raider L]

@81squared,

Here's what i did to mine to make it easier to get out next time you need to do something to the cooling system or whatever.

Where those staples are, pull them out. I had to cut mine in half. Now you have two halves.

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Get some 1/2" Alum. angle. Now make cuts along one side so you can bend it around the curve of the shroud.

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Pop rivet each piece of Alum. 4 pieces total, to each shroud half making a flange. Take the two shroud halves and line up the edges of the Alum. pieces and drill holes down through the flanges.

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Now you can put screws in the holes attaching the flanges together. This way if you only need to take the upper half away. You won't have to remove the fan each time you need to do something to the radiator or the front of the engine and would have to take the whole shroud out, you can just take the upper half away by taking those little screws out.

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[Raider L]

Just a couple more pics that were in that group. Maybe making those pieces will be a bit clearer.

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Use pop rivets to attach the Alum. pieces to the shroud, not screws. I used screws to attach the two halves together by drilling holes through the two flanges by putting the two shroud halves together until the flanges are lined up together and even. Then drill some holes, as you can see in the pic above, in the flange. There doesn't need to be the same number of holes on either side so long as there are enough to securely hold the two shroud halves together.

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By making straight cuts and angled cuts in order to bend the Alum. angle so it will follow the curve of the shroud. If you've never done this method before just practice on some pieces until you understand what you need to do in order to come up with a usable piece, then attach it to the shroud.