Proportioning valve problems

[chevytech87]

So I’ve replaced my proportioning valve twice since buying my truck, and each time after about 6 months the metering valve begins to leak profusely. I’m wondering in the aftermarket units are just junk? Anyone have a factory unit laying around that doesn’t leak? Or at least is serviceable? Tired of replacing this thing and brake fluid eating my frame every 6 months.

Any suggestions appreciated, just need it fixed.

The truck is an 87 R15 disc/ drum.

 

[Chuckd84]

So I’ve replaced my proportioning valve twice since buying my truck, and each time after about 6 months the metering valve begins to leak profusely. I’m wondering in the aftermarket units are just junk? Anyone have a factory unit laying around that doesn’t leak? Or at least is serviceable? Tired of replacing this thing and brake fluid eating my frame every 6 months.

Any suggestions appreciated, just need it fixed.

The truck is an 87 R15 disc/ drum.

Ive got the same issue. Also cant find a master cylinder that will keep seals more than a year. I feel your pain

 

[fast 99]

Not the first time I have heard about them leaking. Offshore parts are questionable. Try to find used OEM.

Seems to be a lot of these being replaced and I question why. To be honest in 30 years of brake repair, several vehicles every week, probably only replaced one or 2.

 

[Ken B]

2nd try replacing prop valve.
Original the electric connector was mashed. And could not get it out. Replaced. Replacement is leaking.
Is it correct to put the centering tool in prior to hooking the lines up to keep the centering pin centered and all brake lines moving fluid?

 

[chevytech87]

2nd try replacing prop valve.
Original the electric connector was mashed. And could not get it out. Replaced. Replacement is leaking.
Is it correct to put the centering tool in prior to hooking the lines up to keep the centering pin centered and all brake lines moving fluid?

Not sure if that’s the right way, but it’s the way I did it and it seemed to go smooth. Haven’t had any issues with my latest valve yet.

 

[Ricko1966]

Not the first time I have heard about them leaking. Offshore parts are questionable. Try to find used OEM.

Seems to be a lot of these being replaced and I question why. To be honest in 30 years of brake repair, several vehicles every week, probably only replaced one or 2.

This ^^^^ this is just one reason I don't change parts,any parts,just to change parts. I do not adhere to the it was old so I just went ahead and replaced it. Many times I'll repair/rebuild an old part,because many times I end up with a better part. It's common place to replace parts,with that logic,and I used to fight service writers on this. " I'm not going to put in/on x parts free,just because I'm there. Because when they fail in 6 months you'll expect me to fix it again for free.

 

[Ricko1966]

2nd try replacing prop valve.
Original the electric connector was mashed. And could not get it out. Replaced. Replacement is leaking.
Is it correct to put the centering tool in prior to hooking the lines up to keep the centering pin centered and all brake lines moving fluid?

As long as you have the centering tool in before you start bleeding the brakes is all you need so anytime between opening the box and opening the first bleeder is fine.

 

[Ken B]

Thanks
In hindsight I wish I would've worked harder to get the plastic electrical connector out on the old valve. It was snapped off and I gave up.

 

[ali_c20]

I guess I'm lucky, I'm running summit brand brass prop valves in all our vehicles with no leaks and they work as expected. They are in use since 10, 7 and 5 years, maybe the quality was better back then.