Prepping for front suspension rebuild

[TX87R10]

Hey all I've got an '87 tbi R10 and the frontend suspension needs to be rebuilt. Currently the driver side tire seems to have a fair amount of slack in it left to right.

What all components should I replace while I'm going to be in there? Is there any kind of suggest kit out there for stock replacement? Not looking to upgrade or make any modifications.

Also from a safety standpoint anything to keep in mind? I'll probably start looking up YouTube videos as well so if you have any good ones id appreciate it

 

[fast 99]

Really you need to check for looseness at every joint. Could be one part or the entire suspension. L-R most likely a tie rod but could also be ball joints.

 

[DoubleDingo]

If it were me, I'd get upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, new bearings and races, tie rods, and torque it all to spec. I would consider new coil springs as well since it will be wide open, and would also consider replacing the sway bar bushings.

 

[Ricko1966]

And a steering box,pitman arm,leather man tool,main bearings a truck to haul it in. Oh wait wrong post. My bad.

 

[Bennyt]

I'd check rockauto.com. might be cheaper to replace the control arms then rebuild once you consider your time.

 

[TX87R10]

If it were me, I'd get upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, new bearings and races, tie rods, and torque it all to spec. I would consider new coil springs as well since it will be wide open, and would also consider replacing the sway bar bushings.

Thanks this is what I was thinking as well, while I am in there with stuff apart I wanted a checklist of stuff to go ahead and replace.

As far as the coil springs themselves my only thing is I've never done this before and working with the springs gives me a bit of concern for safety. I'm going to watch some YouTube videos on it and see if it seems reasonable for me to do.

Thanks again!

 

[Nasty-LSX]

Im surprised no one has said this. Use all MOOG parts. All the aftermarket junk right now is JUNK.
I use moog for years with customers cars/trucks and never have comebacks or later complaints or
replacements. If your looking for a short term fix then buy whatever. Post pics. Keep us updated.

You can go to MOOG.com get your part #'s and shop the web. I get the part #'s and then buy on Amazon.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Thanks this is what I was thinking as well, while I am in there with stuff apart I wanted a checklist of stuff to go ahead and replace.

As far as the coilover itself my only thing is I've never done this before and working with the springs gives me a bit of concern for safety. I'm going to watch some YouTube videos on it and see if it seems reasonable for me to do.

Thanks again!

It is a concerning experience, but when done correctly it's safe.

What I do: Jack up the front end and secure with jack stands. Place the floor jack under the control arm directly under the ball joint and raise the jack to be about one inch under the ball joint. This keeps the lower control arm from flying down once the castle nut has been loosened. Remove the cotter pin, and loosen the castle nut. Do not remove the castle nut, get it to about 1/4 inch above where it seats on the control arm. Sometimes a whack with a hammer on the control arm will get it bust loose, sometimes a pickle fork is needed. What I have done before, is get short pieces of 1/2 inch galvanized pipe, like 2 inch piece, and get two bolts, some flat washers, and some nuts. You are making a ball joint spreader. It's hillbilly engineering, but it works. You position the heads of the bolts on the upper and lower ball joints, and then turn the nuts to get the bolts to extend out of the little pipe. I did this on a stubborn ball joint after fighting with heat, hammer, etc for 10 hours. Two minutes with the homemade spreader and it popped loose. Once the lower ball joint pops loose, you'll se the castle nut is resting on the control arm again. Now raise the floor jack up to the bottom of the ball joint and remove the nut. You can then slowly lower the floor jack and the coil spring will lose its tension and you can grab it before it plops onto the ground.

After all that both control arms can be removed.

 

[Bennyt]

In addition to what DD stated above, I typically keep a tie-down or two handy. One to hold up misc parts when working and one attached to the coil just in case when removing.

Sometimes a pry bar to pop the coil out if it's stuck in the lower arm seat

When installing the coils, if using the rubber isolaters, I use electrical tape to keep them in place on the spring.

 

[mrdap]

Don't forget the idler arm.

I agree with the previous post suggesting the use of Moog parts.
The only way to go for suspension parts.
Unless you're trying to keep it 100% factory original, then you have to search for the GM parts.

 

[TX87R10]

If it were me, I'd get upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, new bearings and races, tie rods, and torque it all to spec. I would consider new coil springs as well since it will be wide open, and would also consider replacing the sway bar bushings.

I was looking at replacing just the bushings but the upper control arm whole assy is only like $80. Does this seem correct for driver side? I'm going to do both sides but figured I should buy the driver side first and make sure it all fits since summit is right down the road.

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This seems like it is everything I need - I recently replaced the races and wheel bearings when redoing the brakes

 

[DoubleDingo]

If you're buying new control arms, they better be coming with ball joints installed.

 

[TX87R10]

If you're buying new control arms, they better be coming with ball joints installed.

Yep comes with ball joints and bushings already installed. It was almost the same price and the parts individually

 

[DoubleDingo]

Yep comes with ball joints and bushings already installed. It was almost the same price and the parts individually

If you're getting all new parts, then you shouldn't need ball joints on your list, or control arm bushings, just the springs and arms.

 

[brooksman9]

Not a bad deal on those arms.