Prepping for 700r4 goodness

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Obwonkonobe

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Thanks, il defiantly hook it up then
It will cause excessive heat and can hurt it if driven in OD, if you keep in D you will be fine. Reason is in od the tans stops pumping fluid to be more efficient, this coupled with the convertor still slipping will cause it to create heat that doesn't get transferred to the cooler. You might not hurt it but to me its not worth the risk.
 

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These dimensions from Bowtie Overdrives show the overall length difference is only 1/8".

........................Case.....Overall
.......................length.....length

TH350 (long) 21 5/8" 30 5/8"
700R4
...........23 3/8" 30 3/4"

Also do LOTS of research on proper TV cable setup. It is absolutely critical for the cable to start pulling on the throttle valve as soon as the throttle starts to open. No slack at all!

I like to drop the pan and put my eyes on the TV lever to make sure it's where it's supposed to be at open and closed throttle. You'll want the lever just touching the valve a closed throttle. I've been told that a little tension is better than a little clearance.

And as someone mentioned above, depending on your carb type, you may need a geometry correction lever. Essentially what it does is ensure the TV cable connection point on the throttle lever moves the proper distance to fully open and fully close the throttle valve. Obviously carbs and throttle bodies used on trucks with 700R4 trans had the proper geometry.

Here's some good information: http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

 
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Obwonkonobe

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These dimensions from Bowtie Overdrives show the overall length difference is only 1/8".

........................Case.....Overall
.......................length.....length

TH350 (long) 21 5/8" 30 5/8"
700R4
...........23 3/8" 30 3/4"

Also do LOTS of research on proper TV cable setup. It is absolutely critical for the cable to start pulling on the throttle valve as soon as the throttle starts to open. No slack at all!

I like to drop the pan and put my eyes on the TV lever to make sure it's where it's supposed to be at open and closed throttle. You'll want the lever just touching the valve a closed throttle. I've been told that a little tension is better than a little clearance.

And as someone mentioned above, depending on your carb type, you may need a geometry correction lever. Essentially what it does is ensure the TV cable connection point on the throttle lever moves the proper distance to fully open and fully close the throttle valve. Obviously carbs and throttle bodies used on trucks with 700R4 trans had the proper geometry.

Here's some good information: http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php
Super helpful thank you!
 

Obwonkonobe

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Does anyone know if rubber lines are good enough for trans cooler lines?
 

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Does anyone know if rubber lines are good enough for trans cooler lines?

I use them on my vette tohelp insulate from heat of the uncoated headers. I bought the reinforced rubber rated for atf/oil.
 

Obwonkonobe

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I use them on my vette tohelp insulate from heat of the uncoated headers. I bought the reinforced rubber rated for atf/oil.
Would you trust them to hold all the pressure? My trans cooler lines dont line up and im considering cutting the ends and using rubber hose to attach them
 

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Would you trust them to hold all the pressure? My trans cooler lines dont line up and im considering cutting the ends and using rubber hose to attach them

Im running them from trans to cooler and back
 

bucket

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There's hose specifically rated for trans oil, it usually says "Transmission Oil Cooler" right on the hose.
 

Obwonkonobe

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Ended up buying the thickest hose at autozone, chopping a section from the steel line, and clamping it on as hard as I could, should work well, thanks!
 

84 M1008

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Hmm, I didn’t know they made these. I’ve seen just about everyone who had after the fact lockup flipping a switch. Definitely worth exploring
I had a B&M controller that crapped out in only a few months. I just wired the lockup to an old school headlight dimmer switch, and switched the lockup on and off accordingly. I used it for highway driving only.
 

henrym

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Why would you hook the trans cooler in series with the radiator cooler? Inquiring minds want to know.
The radiator will "pre-cool" the ATF to 190f-210f, then will pass through the auxillary cooler, further bringing down temp. All coolers are gvwr rated, and in AZ, or towing, it wouldn't hurt to go large on cooler size. I run a 11"X12" stacked fin cooler, and have never had a problem running hot while towing or off-roading. My buddy Tim Cordova in NM really did an awesome job on rebuilding this beast.
 

84 M1008

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The radiator will "pre-cool" the ATF to 190f-210f, then will pass through the auxillary cooler, further bringing down temp. All coolers are gvwr rated, and in AZ, or towing, it wouldn't hurt to go large on cooler size. I run a 11"X12" stacked fin cooler, and have never had a problem running hot while towing or off-roading. My buddy Tim Cordova in NM really did an awesome job on rebuilding this beast.
Yup, I ran a Derale fan driven auxiliary cooler on my 86 1031. Heat is the killer of 700R4's.
 

crazy4offroad

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Here's another little tip I never knew but made sense after I heard about it, painting the transmission case hinders the transmission's ability to release heat. It's best to leave the aluminum case unpainted and if you go mudding like I do get under there and hose as much mud off as you can when you're done playing. That mud holds heat too. The reason modern radiators switched over to aluminum from copper, copper convects heat very well, but aluminum releases heat better than copper. Many people lower their radiator's cooling ability when they paint their radiator support and paint the radiator with it.
 

HotRodPC

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I've heard that too about painting cases but then got told how stupid that was, that people paint them all the time and they're fine.
 

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