This is what I decipher from this convoluted setup: You have a pink wire that supplies 12v at every window switch. The master switch (Drivers side) controls ground to the whole PW system. The other window switches have a rest setting of allowing the ground and 12v wire from the master switch to pass thru to the PW motor. This way when you up/down the other windows from the master it will reverse the 12v and ground and just go thru the switch located on the door that you are trying to up/down. If that door switch is bad it will not allow you to up/down that window but the others will work. The window switch at the door when used just reverses the 12v and ground to the motor. I know clear as mud. This is the reason I am getting warm and cozy with PW/lock wiring.
I got this 74 and the previous owner was in the process of adding PW/locks. The wiring was hacked and the passenger door did not work and for the driver’s door to work you had to hold the hot wire from the fuse box to the door harness, real fun. I found a good door harnesses and the under dash harness for the system. I ran a temp wire setup from the master switch to the other door so I could get it to work. Of course both switches were bad and had to be replaced. I’m off the week of July 4th and plan to remove both doors , re-pin the hinges and paint the doors. Then address the power lock setup.
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Hell, I"ll even thank Clancy for throwing up the thread. I already know where the hanress runs and plugs under the dash on both sides so this'll be easy now.
I want gray !!! 
I'd have gray in all of mine if I had my way.
